Orange peel

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cannucky

cannucky

The Guy With No Birthday
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Ok so I painted my rear valance today and it looks like it's not going to lay down .
The product is SP 150 Urethane , it's a colour matched single stage spray bomb , I have used it before in the hot summer to spray a pair of wheels and they came out great , the product layed down when it dried and the gloss came up . This time it's a cooler day 50-55F , the gloss doesn't seem to be coming up and it looks like it's starting to show orange peel .So whats the solution ? Do I cut polish the peel then shoot a clear coat? Do I just shoot the clear and hope it fills and flattens? Do I have to sand it down and start again ? I suck at body work clearly so I could really use the wisdom of a painter here.
 
if its a metallic sanding and cc wont always work, the metallic can pull out and ruin it.one solution would be to sand it flat then apply more to get a gloss. 50-55 could be a bit cold for it if you can spray around 65 it will most likely turn out better. How long has it been scene you sprayed it?
 
Sprayed it 4 hours ago , last looked at it 2.5 hours ago .yeah its Turbine Bronze which is a mettalic and it also has some gold pearl in it .I' ll go back and look at it in the morning , just one of those days eh , the sun came out and it was nice and warm beating down on the panel then as soon as I sprayed it the clouds covered the sun and it cooled off about 10 degrees . Can I knock it down safely with a cut polish or rubbing compound? I' ll see if it's visible in a picture tomorrow morning and post it if it is , it didn't have the large ripple looking orange peel just tiny fine stuff if that makes any sense.
 
It's the rear valance on my fastback barracuda so only the bottom third on either side of the license plate shows below the bumper but I'd still like it to look proper.
 
give it a day or a few. when my car was originally re painted the peel was terrible but after a few weeks it flattened out
 
That is a bit cold. I'm not an expert painter, but when I have painted that cold I keep a couple heat lamps on the metal to keep it around 60 degrees or better. Now that's usually for equipment, so my concern isn't that great, but it's always turned out well. Just a thought if you have to repaint again that you might try.
 
the temp drop was just one of those things , the garage door faces south and the sun was shining on it all morning at 15 -18 c which is 59-65 F but as soon as I shot it it clouded over and the temp dropped on me . Heres a couple of pics from this morning .Hopefully ypou can expand the first one and see what I am talking about , it isn't real bad but it's there , hopefully as it cures it will diminish some more . I am hoping a pro painter will chime in with some tips , like will shooting clear over it make the peel more obvious or fill it like a high hide wax ? The gloss isn't going to equal the rest of the car without shooting some clear on it so I need to know if I need to re shoot-it first and if not how long do I have to wait now before I clear coat it , it still has some tack to it after 24 hrs so it isn't done yet .

tsiepnt.jpg


fullpnt.jpg
 
Mine is Turbine bronze base/clear. my friend painted it a and asked how MUCH orange peal I wanted. I wanted a little like a factory job would have. When fresh it came out like factory, one week later just a little less. So maybe yours may lay out a little. Shot in NH mid April, 65 degree weather, pulled it out of the barn after shooting it, would you know it one little black fly landed in the middle of the hood! Bastard .....
 
spl440 said:
Mine is Turbine bronze base/clear. my friend painted it a and asked how MUCH orange peal I wanted. I wanted a little like a factory job would have. When fresh it came out like factory, one week later just a little less. So maybe yours may lay out a little. Shot in NH mid April, 65 degree weather, pulled it out of the barn after shooting it, would you know it one little black fly landed in the middle of the hood! Bastard .....
Click to expand...

That bites eh ! A piece of grass about 1/2 inch long blew into mine but it will be behind the bumper so screw it lol .
 
If that noticeable difference from rest of car,
Light scuff with 1500 and spray 1 coat of clear coat.
Then wetsand and buff to match car.

D
 
Here's a few things to consider. Wet sanding a single stage paint with mettalic in it will disturb the mettalics and it will show big time. You are sanding the mettalics and changing how they are sitting in the paint. Any time you sand a mettalic paint weather its single stage or a base coat it needs to be recoated to distribute the flake properly.

As far as the orange peel, if the temperature dropped it would actually assist in helping the paint flow out. It will slow the cure, and allow the paint to lay down after being sprayed.

Consider getting yourself a cheap HVLP Gravity feed spray gun to do this. Your results will be MUCH better. You can get a decent gun for $50-100. I'd suggest a 1.4 tip for your single stage.

Putting clear over something will not assist in this. The peaks and valleys of "orange peel" tend to pool mettalics in them, and just clearing over it you will still see this visual effect.

My suggestion, buy a cheap gun, block the panel down with 600 and respray it.
 
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67Dart440GT said:
Here's a few things to consider. Wet sanding a single stage paint with mettalic in it will disturb the mettalics and it will show big time. You are sanding the mettalics and changing how they are sitting in the paint. Any time you sand a mettalic paint weather its single stage or a base coat it needs to be recoated to distribute the flake properly.

As far as the orange peel, if the temperature dropped it would actually assist in helping the paint flow out. It will slow the cure, and allow the paint to lay down after being sprayed.

Consider getting yourself a cheap HVLP Gravity feed spray gun to do this. Your results will be MUCH better. You can get a decent gun for $50-100. I'd suggest a 1.4 tip for your single stage.

Putting clear over something will not assist in this. The peaks and valleys of "orange peel" tend to pool mettalics in them, and just clearing over it you will still see this visual effect.

My suggestion, but a cheap gun, block the panel down with 600 and respray it.
Click to expand...


Correct. If orange peel is bad enough to change metalics/color, you cannot change or bury that with clearcoat.
 
the colour is good it's the gloss that doesn't match . the existing clear is so thick it's like you can see through it sideways , I talked to the top guy at the paint counter and he suggested I give it a light wet sand with 2000 grit then 2500 grit then shoot the clear over it until it matches the existing gloss . He is certain it will take this without getting into the mettalic but of course he's also the guy thats going to sell me another can to re-shoot it with if it doesn't work eh lol. Bottom line I have to try because either it works or I have to knock it down before I re-shoot it anyway . I'll give it a shot this weekend after it has had some more time to harden , the surface is dry but if you press on it you can feel a little tack when you lift your hand so it's still not hard enough for me to be comfortable messing with it .
 
67Dart440GT said:
Here's a few things to consider. Wet sanding a single stage paint with mettalic in it will disturb the mettalics and it will show big time. You are sanding the mettalics and changing how they are sitting in the paint. Any time you sand a mettalic paint weather its single stage or a base coat it needs to be recoated to distribute the flake properly.

As far as the orange peel, if the temperature dropped it would actually assist in helping the paint flow out. It will slow the cure, and allow the paint to lay down after being sprayed.

Consider getting yourself a cheap HVLP Gravity feed spray gun to do this. Your results will be MUCH better. You can get a decent gun for $50-100. I'd suggest a 1.4 tip for your single stage.

Putting clear over something will not assist in this. The peaks and valleys of "orange peel" tend to pool mettalics in them, and just clearing over it you will still see this visual effect.

My suggestion, buy a cheap gun, block the panel down with 600 and respray it.
Click to expand...

Professional painter right here ^^^^^^^ I would listen. Professional = everyday for a living. Every. Day.
 
67Dart440GT said:
I don't agree with anything he told you but good luck with it.
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Thanks for your help , I'll be waiting for the warm weather to come back this weekend and letting whats there cure until then before I play with it , I don't want it wadding up when I sand . I have 600 on hand and another can of paint mixed .Whats the deal with keeping the clear from wrinkling? Should I shoot it right away or will it lay down better if I wait ?If it's better to wait then how long ?
 
What I would first do is get an product sheet for your materials and read them. They should have flash times, top coat times, prep recommendations and so on. Lifting usually happens when you recoat too soon. The solvents attack the old finish and cause lifting. Make sure what you have sprayed is fully cured. Get it in the sun and bake it good. Most paints will honestly bleed solvent for 90 days after spraying.

Once it's fully cured, you can wet sand the orange peel down and follow your product recommendations from there out as far as flash times and topcoat times.
 
Also, another quick question, what did you spray under the color? Did you prime? seal? Anything?
 
I'm doing my first big paint project (engine compartment and fender tops).

I'm finding there's a sweet spot in both paint mix and technique between orange peel and runs.

Overcompensate trying to correct and you get the other.

These things help get rid of peel but promote runs-

Raise gun pressure a bit.

Reduce paint a bit.

Go slower with the gun motion.
 
If you get good at orange peel, I'd like my whole entire car painted to be a consistent peel.
I had a 70 Duster once that the rear half was like that. A consistent same pattern,all over.I really liked it!
So practice up and I'll send you a plane-ticket. lol
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you get good at orange peel, I'd like my whole entire car painted to be a consistent peel.
I had a 70 Duster once that the rear half was like that. A consistent same pattern,all over.I really liked it!

So practice up and I'll send you a plane-ticket. lol
Click to expand...

I'm very consistant with the texture but I only shoot rattle cans and theres NFW I' m shooting your car with rattle cans .
 
After you sprayed the epoxy how soon did you spray the filler primer? And how soon after you sprayed the filler primer did you sand it and coat with color?

Also, if this was a spray bomb filler primer and was dupli color it was most likely a lacquer based primer which is not compatible with a urethane system.... You can experience "die back" hazing of gloss or loss of gloss... and also lifting, or severe adhesion problems. You essentially put a catalyzed product down first (epoxy) a non catalyzed primer (spray bomb duplicolor) and then sandwiched it with another catalyzed product urethane paint. The non catalyzed product expands and contracts at a different rate than the catalyzed product in temperature differences. This is like creating a hard shell over a soft base... it will chip or possibly have zero adhesion what so ever. This is why you never mix systems and if at all possible do not use lacquer for anything anymore.
 
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