Oregon cam nailed it!!!

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junkyardhero said:
so would that have been a 42RE? and you use the trans kit to control the shift points and your adjustable NOS solenoids to dial in the OD and lock up?

agree on pricing. some people throw around WAG on that stuff or they've still got 80's brain on what things cost now a days.
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I believe it was a 96 Dakota that the RH came from. (Last year of the RH)

Then governor pressure determines when the NOS solenoids open and close for up and down shifts.
 
I appreciate real pricing. I hate people calling everything "budget" without real figures.
My budget is whatever I can scrounge up after all my responsibilities are handled.
I save every penny I can save by buying used or building stuff myself.
I've been building body patch panels for three or four projects from the roof of a parts car I paid 40 bucks for.
The Chinese cylinder heads for about 1000.00 blew the "budget" on this engine.


TrailBeast said:
The 500 came in mid sized trucks that were advertised as capable of towing 4,500 lbs or more.
I checked into this long before I put one in my Dart.
That towing capacity coupled with the A body being a lot lighter than the truck it came out of gave me the confidence that it would hold up ok.

I pulled mine from a late 90’s Dakota that had a 5.2,
Checked the pan before I pulled it to find it very clean inside with remnants of bright red fluid.
I put a stage 2 transgo kit in it with the updated manual valve along with the “First gear at any speed” option.
New front and rear seals went in as well as a new rubber over steel pan gasket.
No other upgrades, and it’s been flawless for 5-6 years so far.
And it hasn’t been babied.
I don’t thrash on overdrive or lockup.

I paid $125.00 for the trans, converter, dip stick and 7290 yoke out of the local pick a part.

( I think more people should say what things cost, so others could have some idea of what’s possible.)
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HankRearden said:
I appreciate real pricing. I hate people calling everything "budget" without real figures.
My budget is whatever I can scrounge up after all my responsibilities are handled.
I save every penny I can save by buying used or building stuff myself.
I've been building body patch panels for three or four projects from the roof of a parts car I paid 40 bucks for.
The Chinese cylinder heads for about 1000.00 blew the "budget" on this engine.
Click to expand...

Pretty much the same thing here.
When I got my Dart the Wife said if I quit drinking beer I could spend that money on my car, but uh it didn’t work out that way for some reason. :D
I built HEI kits to help fund what I wanted or needed.
When it came time to do the Magnum the heads were terrible, with literal air gaps between the valves and seats, but the bottom end was really nice, which I thought was kind of odd.
Sold my S&W polished nickel 357 Mag to fund new NZ casting EQ heads and Hughes valve gear.

Most of my accessory parts were from Uncle Tony, Craigslist or Ebay.
Most everything I got was usually less than half of what it would normally cost.
It took a ton of patience and hunting but worth it in the end.

Also like the feeling of building the entire car myself, with zero labor from anyone else.
I actually don’t care to do that kind of work with anyone else around.
Too distracting.
I’m pretty sure you have seen my Dart, but just in case…

Stock bottom 5.9
EQ heads with 1.92/1.60 stainless valves.
Oregon regrind 5.12/5.12 lift
214/224 duration.
1110 spring kit.
Positive seal guide seals.
Aluminum dual plane intake.
Holley 770 Street Avenger.
1 5/8 aluminized long tubes.
8 pin HEI module/recurved dist.
Full 3/8 fuel system with return and electric pump.
42RH fully automatic shifting.
TF2 shift kit.
Hurst Promatic 2 ratshit shifter with hurst T handle and line lock under index finger.
Cable throttle pressure.
HD driveshaft with 7290 Ujoints.
73-74 Abody 8.25 Suregrip with 3.55 gears.
4 wheel power discs.
18x10 Riddler rear wheels with 245/40 Nitto Neogen tires.
17x8 on front with 225/45.
Of course subframe connectors, 1.03 torsion bars and all poly except for motor mounts.
All LED lighting except headlights.
Headlights are GE Nighthawks on relays.

Painted in my back yard in open air on gravel.

That’s the basics anyway.
There’s lots of special details throughout the entire car.

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HankRearden said:
It took a while but I put together a stock bottom end magnum 5.9 with some Chinese eq heads and a reground cam for my 79 d200. I need torque for pulling my boat. I'm not drag racing.
Oregon cam recommended
#1429

210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep., 900/5200

This thing is surprisingly good. At light throttle away from a red light I can't help but smoke one tire. It is so torquey its impressive.
I will definitely use Oregon Cam again.
I can't wait to see how this thing runs when I get the carb and ignition timing turned.
This will drag my old heavy boat for sure.
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Similar cam Richard Holdener put in a stock 5.9l with 4bbl and headers and got 350hp.
 
slantsixdan said:
'cuz people think an advertised brand name has gotta-just-gotta be better, so they buy Comp Cams' junk and then bіtch and moan about the results.
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Similar cam spec's are gonna get similar results no matter the name on the box.
 
273 said:
Similar cam spec's are gonna get similar results no matter the name on the box.
Click to expand...
But at least Oregon sells either good quality new cores, or grinds real Chrysler hardened cores. Comp's been selling poor metallurgy for a while now.
 
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