Over Charging Issues

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I don't believe that is the issue. Yeh, I know, he says he wiggled it and it went away, but I do not believe that is the cause. I've posted a LOT about these problems. A loose connection(s) in the field circuit should cause UNDER voltage if anything.

Rarely, a bad battery will cause overcharge, probably related to sulfation, etc

USUALLY this is caused by one of two things, either 1....voltage drop in the ground circuit AKA the VR MUST be at the same V as the NEG battery terminal, and

2....V drop in the hot circuit which is way more common. Drop in the bulkhead connector, ignition switch connector and switch, and right at the ammeter. Bad connections right at the VR connector where power feeds the VR

A bad regulator can do this, but somewhat rare. Mostly, VRs fail or not, rather than "off voltage," but they can sometimes.
 
dadsbee said:
Pull that Blue wire off and it will go full field...
Click to expand...
Off the alternator? No. The functional path is..........blue gets power from the key, it is on the same line as "ignition run." Blue supplies battery power to alternator field.........through the field..........to the green wire.............which goes to the regulator. The regulator controls the amount of field current, to control the alternator output according to the voltage sense at the VR. If you pull the blue OR the green off the alternator, it will not charge.
 
67Dart273 said:
Off the alternator? No. The functional path is..........blue gets power from the key, it is on the same line as "ignition run." Blue supplies battery power to alternator field.........through the field..........to the green wire.............which goes to the regulator. The regulator controls the amount of field current, to control the alternator output according to the voltage sense at the VR. If you pull the blue OR the green off the alternator, it will not charge.
Click to expand...

So the short version is that the regulator must see actual battery voltage. :D
 
TrailBeast said:
So the short version is that the regulator must see actual battery voltage. :D
Click to expand...

This is simple ^ and true.

I just went round and round on Charging System Overcharging. Watched 20 videos on the subject, read everything on the subject and applied all the wiring diagrams.

Lots of experimenting with different components, all tests were massively overcharging.

'89 D100 with computer controlled Voltage Regulator that failed. As the whole truck is being converted back to "Old School" chose to go with mopar external voltage regulator, no joy.

Tried a motocraft Alternator with Ford external voltage regulator, no joy... over charging.

Came to the conclusion that some old wiring of the computer controlled truck was backfeeding causing the issue.

My fix ended up being intalling a 60 amp Motocraft Alternator and doing the ad on one wire voltage regulator kit, isolating the charging system from all of the '89 truck's original wiring.

Success, now I can get onto other more important things.

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Happy with the results.

Getting rid of all the poorly designed systems that come with the newer vehicles.

Making the whole truck Future Proof (like no in the tank fuel pump) and making it easy to fix and maintain for decades to come.

Simple is Good.

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☆☆☆☆☆
 
Thanks for the input guys. So far it seems that it is staying at 13.0 to 13.8 volts. I ground the back of the VR so that it would make ground on the firewall. Checked with my test light on the screws that mount it and everything seems grounded. If I find something else I will update again. Nice to be back here again as well.
 
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