Over flow bottle ???
- Thread starter DartGT55
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
A drain at the bottom would defeat the purpose of the overflow bottle.
Have any idea why this was done
So the anti-freeze wouldn't contaminate the track and smoke the tires
most likely contamination/they knew back then anti-freeze was toxic !!
safety ? a visual check to check fluid levels without popping a hot radiator!
most likely contamination/they knew back then anti-freeze was toxic !!
safety ? a visual check to check fluid levels without popping a hot radiator!
So I can add a little coolant if I wanted toSo the anti-freeze wouldn't contaminate the track and smoke the tires
most likely contamination/they knew back then anti-freeze was toxic !!
safety ? a visual check to check fluid levels without popping a hot radiator!
ThanksSo the anti-freeze wouldn't contaminate the track and smoke the tires
most likely contamination/they knew back then anti-freeze was toxic !!
safety ? a visual check to check fluid levels without popping a hot radiator!
Make sure the lid is vented on the black canister.
Otherwise it is as if you put a 1000lb cap on your radiator.
Pull the small hose off the radiator and apply some air pressure (20 lbs) to the hose going into the black overflow canister.
If you can not presurise the canister your good
If you can presurise the canister you need a hole in the cap of the canister.
The way this works...
Fluid in your radiator expands when it gets hot. If your radiator is 100% full the expanding fluid starts to pressurize the cooling system. Once the pressure is over the rad cap rating (16 lbs?) the fluid starts going out the small hose to the recovery canister.
There is air in the recovery canister and if it is vented properly the air goes into the atmosphere as the fluid enters the canister.
IF the canister is not vented then as the fluid enters, the air inside gets compressed and builds pressure in the ENTIRE cooling system. Basically you plugged up that small hose at the rad cap.
The coolant will continue to expand and build pressure till something gives, like the radiator tubes or tanks, or hoses, or the canister, or freeze plugs, or gaskets. What ever is the weakest link in your cooling system.
The small hose entering at the bottom suggests that it is a cooling system recovery system rather than just a catch can should you overflow at the track
Otherwise it is as if you put a 1000lb cap on your radiator.
Pull the small hose off the radiator and apply some air pressure (20 lbs) to the hose going into the black overflow canister.
If you can not presurise the canister your good
If you can presurise the canister you need a hole in the cap of the canister.
The way this works...
Fluid in your radiator expands when it gets hot. If your radiator is 100% full the expanding fluid starts to pressurize the cooling system. Once the pressure is over the rad cap rating (16 lbs?) the fluid starts going out the small hose to the recovery canister.
There is air in the recovery canister and if it is vented properly the air goes into the atmosphere as the fluid enters the canister.
IF the canister is not vented then as the fluid enters, the air inside gets compressed and builds pressure in the ENTIRE cooling system. Basically you plugged up that small hose at the rad cap.
The coolant will continue to expand and build pressure till something gives, like the radiator tubes or tanks, or hoses, or the canister, or freeze plugs, or gaskets. What ever is the weakest link in your cooling system.
The small hose entering at the bottom suggests that it is a cooling system recovery system rather than just a catch can should you overflow at the track
Doesn't even make sense. Looks like someone's bad idea after a weekend of drinking.
When I get back from a little run I pop the hood and it seems like the top and bottom hoses have a lot of pressure in them the cap was a 1.3 but put a new cap 0.9 but still seems to have a lot of pressure on them still should I just drill a very small hole in the tanks top
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If you want the system to work like a normal recovery system, you need a different type of cap. A regular cap only vents coolant out. S ecovery cap has a 2 way valve. When the radiator heats up and the colant xpands, it lets coolant drain to the bottle. When the system cools down, a sligh vaccum occurs in the cooling system and the cap will open again to let coolant from the bottle go back into the radiator.
This way you will never have to top off the radiator as it will always be fuul and the bottle will never go empty.
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"A coolant overflow tank, also known as a recovery tank or expansion tank, regulates the excess coolant that builds up in a car's engine as it heats up:
This way you will never have to top off the radiator as it will always be fuul and the bottle will never go empty.
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"A coolant overflow tank, also known as a recovery tank or expansion tank, regulates the excess coolant that builds up in a car's engine as it heats up:
- Pressure
When the engine heats up, the radiator cap allows excess coolant to escape into the tank to relieve pressure. The pressure spring in the cap seals the system until it reaches a certain pressure level.
- Coolant flow
The coolant is transferred between the tank and the cooling system based on the pressure from the coolant.
- Coolant return
When the engine cools down, the system creates negative pressure that draws the excess coolant back into the radiator.
- Coolant level
When the engine is off, the coolant reservoir should be about 30% full. The cold level should be set low, and the full or hot mark should be where the coolant is when the engine is at its normal operating temperature.
- Coolant replenishment
The reservoir is also where new coolant is added to the system.
- Coolant leaks
A crack or leak in the reservoir can cause constant coolant replenishment and the possibility of overheating. "
DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES.....
The system should be pressurized. Pressure in the system raises the boiling point of the coolant.
The RADIATOR CAP should be providing he pressure and pressure relief.
With a 0.9 PSI cap you should be able to squeeze the upper radiator hose together with your hand. With 16 PSI cap it should be very firm.
After the car cools to basically room temperature leave the overflow cap off and let it reach operating temp (idling should do it) then feel the upper hose again. If you can squeeze it easily then the overflow does not have a vent. You can check the overflow tank as I described earlier by disconnecting the small hose under the rad cap and putting air pressure to the small hose. With the overflow cap off you can blow into the hose and hear bubbles. With the overflow cap on and tight you can not blow air into the hose it is sealed or you are not blowing hard enough and you need to test it up to 20lbs.
This is an extreme example. in our cooling systems a rupture will happen before an explosion. BUT I have been burnt by 200 deg coolant and its not fun.
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I bet the RAD cap is fine! 0.9 cap from Champion's website
it is the overflow that is concerning to me. He need to test that it is vented or not
This photo forgot to add the air vent to the overflow bottle
That is a type s from champion
Thank you very much
I think he fat fingered the "S"
I think he meant to type "
Spellcheck thanks
Other than @Dana67Dart, I can't believe there are so many goofy answers from smart people on this thread. It's a very simple concept: When liquid in the cooling system expands, it comes under pressure. When that pressure goes higher than the rating of the radiator cap, it needs someplace to go. You could just let it dump out under the car, but then you lost some coolant permanently. So you hook it up to a bottle, which catches the overflow. And because the tube's entry into the bottle is submerged in the overflow fluid, it naturally sucks the fluid back into the radiator when the system cools. Repeats every time the car is run up to temp.
I'm not so worried about tainting race tracks (I don't race) or the cost of a bit of fluid. But this simple system does ensure that my radiator is always filled to the top, with zero air in there. I may be wrong, but I suspect that having zero air in the radiator is helpful in preventing corrosion. My 72 Swinger seems to have its original 52 year old radiator in it working fine (I've only had the car for 27 years, so I'm not positive).
But for this to work, you definitely need a little hole in the top of the bottle so that air can come and go as fluid comes and goes. I have that same exact cheapo bottle on my car and it didn't come vented, so I drilled a 1/16" hole in the top and it works great. It was a great replacement for my old solution, which was just a plastic bottle with a tube going to the bottom.
I'm not so worried about tainting race tracks (I don't race) or the cost of a bit of fluid. But this simple system does ensure that my radiator is always filled to the top, with zero air in there. I may be wrong, but I suspect that having zero air in the radiator is helpful in preventing corrosion. My 72 Swinger seems to have its original 52 year old radiator in it working fine (I've only had the car for 27 years, so I'm not positive).
But for this to work, you definitely need a little hole in the top of the bottle so that air can come and go as fluid comes and goes. I have that same exact cheapo bottle on my car and it didn't come vented, so I drilled a 1/16" hole in the top and it works great. It was a great replacement for my old solution, which was just a plastic bottle with a tube going to the bottom.
Quick Q on Radiator Overflow Bottle
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Leave what you have -- it's fine. Just make sure that air can enter and exit the top of the bottle -- drill a 1/16" hole in the top of of the bottle and you're good.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Bout time someone explained a recovery system clearly.
Nice job.
Not that most didn’t cover it, but this was clean and to the point.
I would only add that pressure in the hoses is normal (up to the cap rating)
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ESP47
Well-Known Member
Is that Champion cap the type of cap that allows the coolant to be sucked back into the radiator from the overflow tank?
Thanks to all that replyed a lessen in cooling 101Bout time someone explained a recovery system clearly.
Nice job.
Not that most didn’t cover it, but this was clean and to the point.
I would only add that pressure in the hoses is normal (up to the cap rating)
ESP47
Well-Known Member
Thanks I missed that somehow.
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