overcharging the battery HELP

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I went through all the steps a second time. This time I used my backup regulator. Everything is working 100%.

67dart273 is the man!:thumbsup::thankyou:
 
I hate to be the bearer of neg news, but you might not have fixed it. you may have a poor connection causing the low blue wire voltage and when you wiggled around changing the regulator, you "wiggled" the connection "good." Keep an eye on it!!

The general problem "most of the time" is the functional path from the battery to the regulator. Generally, that path is battery......starter relay stud..........fuse link...........through the bulkhead on ammeter RED, to and through the ammeter.........on the BLACK ammeter wire........to the WELDED SPLICE........branch to the ignition switch connector--------through the switch..........out the switch connector on IGN2......out into the engine bay through the bulkhead connector (dark blue)............to the ignition system, alternator field, regulator, etc.

The worst offenders seem to be the bulkhead connector terminals, the ammeter, and the ignition switch and switch connectors.

Again, one easy way around this is to (electrically) chop the blue IGN2 after it enters the engine bay, use the bulkhead connector end to feed a bosch relay, and feed the relay contacts through a fuse/ breaker off the starter relay stud. Connect the load contact to the cut engine bay end of the dark blue.

THIS WILL CAUSE the ammeter to "offset" a few amps but it should give the regulator "exact" battery voltage
 
67Dart273 said:
I hate to be the bearer of neg news, but you might not have fixed it. you may have a poor connection causing the low blue wire voltage and when you wiggled around changing the regulator, you "wiggled" the connection "good." Keep an eye on it!!

The general problem "most of the time" is the functional path from the battery to the regulator. Generally, that path is battery......starter relay stud..........fuse link...........through the bulkhead on ammeter RED, to and through the ammeter.........on the BLACK ammeter wire........to the WELDED SPLICE........branch to the ignition switch connector--------through the switch..........out the switch connector on IGN2......out into the engine bay through the bulkhead connector (dark blue)............to the ignition system, alternator field, regulator, etc.

The worst offenders seem to be the bulkhead connector terminals, the ammeter, and the ignition switch and switch connectors.

Again, one easy way around this is to (electrically) chop the blue IGN2 after it enters the engine bay, use the bulkhead connector end to feed a bosch relay, and feed the relay contacts through a fuse/ breaker off the starter relay stud. Connect the load contact to the cut engine bay end of the dark blue.

THIS WILL CAUSE the ammeter to "offset" a few amps but it should give the regulator "exact" battery voltage
Click to expand...
Hmm that is interesting . I'm.not super familiar with the pathing, is there a simple-ish diagram to follow how to do this relay trick?
 
You can download manuals and diagrams from MyMopar. Don't need to sign in or anything.

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

here

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip

unfortunately that manual is quite dirty on the page you need LOL start with page 289

Let me see if I can post enough to get you pointed

66ply1.jpg


66ply2.jpg


Above are crops from that page. This shows what your bulkhead connector looks like, and the separate plug showing the wiring is the ignition harness section as shown. you want cavity N which will have a dark blue, white with tracer, no16 wire coming out. As you can see this leads up to the ballast resistor bottom terminal, and feeds off to the voltage regulator. So you trace out that wire, and figure a good place to chop it, and then run the end coming out of the bulkhead to the coil of a bosh relay. That will fire the relay. Then feed the power contact of the relay with a breaker or fuseholder off of your big starter relay stud, which is "hot" battery. now connect the other end of the wire you cut to the load (switched) side of the contact on the relay. Ground the remaining relay contact
 
Typical bosch relay

6d5ac54f901413f1d0a85489635c32a8.jpg


87 would come off your starter relay stud, through a fuse/ breaker

30 would connect to the engine bay end of the cut blue wire

86 wouldl connect to the cut blue wire coming out of the bulkhead "N" terminal

85 as shown goes to ground

If you don't mind one last complication, you can run the 85 through a hidden toggle switch to ground, and create a low level anti-theft feature.

I would use no 16 or 14 wire and fuse it with 20A fuse or 15 or 20A breaker
 
67Dart273 said:
Turn the key to run, engine off. Hook your voltmeter, one probe to the battery positive, other probe to the blue wire on the alternator. You are looking for a VERY low reading, the lower the better. Over 1/2 volt is way too much, and it should be less
Click to expand...
What would the problem bee when you have like 0,8-1 Volt here?
Ive got this problem on my d200 pickup.
Charhing 15-15,4 volts deping on the load.
Tried 3 diffrent charger relays.
 
^^I've tried to explain this^^ It's called voltage drop. The pathway (might be slightly different on a pickup) is from the battery---to starter relay "big stud" (junction point) ---------through the fuse link-------to the large red ammeter wire through the bulkhead connector--------to the ammeter--------through the ammeter-----out the ammeter on large black--------to the welded splice---------branch off--------to the ignition switch connector-------through the switch------out the switch connector on "ignition run" IGN1 wire---------back out through the bulkhead connector............into the engine bay, and branch off to feed underhood loads, including the voltage regulator IGN terminal.

EVERY POINT between the dots is a potential for a poor connection and some voltage loss. The bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, and the contacts inside the ignition switch are likely the worst offenders.

ANY VOLTAGE loss through that pathway results in low voltage at the VR in comparison to the battery----just like you measured. The voltage regulator tries to maintain nominal 14V AT IT'S IGN TERMINAL. That means when running, the VR is trying to maintain that, and the drop now works "in reverse" so to speak, as now, the battery must be HIGH to maintain the VR IGN terminal at 14. So the overvoltage condition at the battery when charging is equal to the amount of the drop you measured.

The drop is additive, meaning there can be a few tenths in the ignition switch, a few tenths in the bulkhead connector terminals, and so on. The total drop is the amount of overcharge voltage. ANY drop in the grounding circuit is also added to this drop
 
67Dart273 said:
^^I've tried to explain this^^ It's called voltage drop. The pathway (might be slightly different on a pickup) is from the battery---to starter relay "big stud" (junction point) ---------through the fuse link-------to the large red ammeter wire through the bulkhead connector--------to the ammeter--------through the ammeter-----out the ammeter on large black--------to the welded splice---------branch off--------to the ignition switch connector-------through the switch------out the switch connector on "ignition run" IGN1 wire---------back out through the bulkhead connector............into the engine bay, and branch off to feed underhood loads, including the voltage regulator IGN terminal.

EVERY POINT between the dots is a potential for a poor connection and some voltage loss. The bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, and the contacts inside the ignition switch are likely the worst offenders.

ANY VOLTAGE loss through that pathway results in low voltage at the VR in comparison to the battery----just like you measured. The voltage regulator tries to maintain nominal 14V AT IT'S IGN TERMINAL. That means when running, the VR is trying to maintain that, and the drop now works "in reverse" so to speak, as now, the battery must be HIGH to maintain the VR IGN terminal at 14. So the overvoltage condition at the battery when charging is equal to the amount of the drop you measured.

The drop is additive, meaning there can be a few tenths in the ignition switch, a few tenths in the bulkhead connector terminals, and so on. The total drop is the amount of overcharge voltage. ANY drop in the grounding circuit is also added to this drop
Click to expand...
Thx i will try to find the loss somewhere, atleast now i have some idea of what to look at.
Thx :)
 
If the only real issue you can find with your wiring is the overcharge condition, one easy way 'around' this is to cut loose the underhood loads supplied by the IGN1 line and fire them with a relay. This is a age old problem and affects MANY Mopars with the same setup over the years.
 
67Dart273 said:
If the only real issue you can find with your wiring is the overcharge condition, one easy way 'around' this is to cut loose the underhood loads supplied by the IGN1 line and fire them with a relay. This is a age old problem and affects MANY Mopars with the same setup over the years.
Click to expand...
Think I missed something...
In post 27 you say to put the relay on ignition 2 but in this one it says ignition 1?
 
I unwound all of the wiring the previous owner ran. I found the problem(s). First was the new plug at the bulkhead was not getting a good connection and causing ignition problems as well. Also the new harness that was taped up had a really bad in-line connection and needed to be redone. It now starts right up and charges correctly. Fixing things done wrong is all I do I think. Pretty much the last 5 cars now have had dumb things done to them.
 
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