Overdrive Transmission for 630 HP motor

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I have been speaking to several transmission shops, and obviously getting a lot of recommendations for the products they're selling. I'm all good with that, and appreciate all the recommendations not to run an overdrive in the car. Ultimately, that is what I am looking for. Several of the shops have recommended their 18 spline A-833, and that may be a good alternative (if I deviate from wanting an overdrive), as several of the shops have built them to handle 650+ horsepower.

Thanks for the information on the Gear Vendors product, as I have been looking at that for a while. Possibly a great product. I was less worried after reading about the product about my 630 HP breaking the unit, more just on it's reliability. I can read all the reviews they have on their sites, but hearing from real-world people makes more of an impact.

As far as putting a GM tranny in the car, that would be my last option. I don't have anything against GM or Ford, as I've built several over the decades. I would like to keep it as much Mopar, as possible.

Thank y'all for taking the time to respond to my post, and I appreciate all the recommendations posted. I definitely have some more research to do, but quite a bit of information to lookup, based on all the feedback.
 
No matter the trans, you're looking at getting a JW or whatever conversion bell housing to adapt to the big block. The 518/RH transmission take the same "hop up" parts as the 727. Better plates and hard parts are also available for the OD unit. A&A Transmissions are also Torqueflite experts. If you have the wherewithal to do your own trans, it will be relatively inexpensive. I have been buying parts/kits from a place called Transparts Warehouse. They carry name brands and have fair prices. They have an all inclusive kit for the RE/RH transmission, with the best plates and performance parts. Good parts and valve body mods get you a long ways on these.
 
I have been speaking to several transmission shops, and obviously getting a lot of recommendations for the products they're selling. I'm all good with that, and appreciate all the recommendations not to run an overdrive in the car. Ultimately, that is what I am looking for. Several of the shops have recommended their 18 spline A-833, and that may be a good alternative (if I deviate from wanting an overdrive), as several of the shops have built them to handle 650+ horsepower.

Thanks for the information on the Gear Vendors product, as I have been looking at that for a while. Possibly a great product. I was less worried after reading about the product about my 630 HP breaking the unit, more just on it's reliability. I can read all the reviews they have on their sites, but hearing from real-world people makes more of an impact.

As far as putting a GM tranny in the car, that would be my last option. I don't have anything against GM or Ford, as I've built several over the decades. I would like to keep it as much Mopar, as possible.

Thank y'all for taking the time to respond to my post, and I appreciate all the recommendations posted. I definitely have some more research to do, but quite a bit of information to lookup, based on all the feedback.


You do NOT need an 18 spline gear box. That is straight nonsense.

If you are going to run a stick the last thing you need to consider is how much horsepower you have.

I can take a 170 inch slant 6 and blow third gear out of an 18 spline box so fast it would make your head spin.

Clutches, I should say junk clutches break transmissions. And most of the stuff out there is junk.

If you buy a B&B pressure plate and a GOOD organic clutch disc (like the Ram part number 327 which is an 18 spline hub but they make it in a 23 spline I just don’t know that pert number) and make sure that pressure plate is 2200-2400 pounds with no centrifugal assist and you’re golden.

It will drive nice, it won’t break parts if you start beating on it and the lever ratio on the B&B cover is nicer to drive. IMO anyway.

I can say that clutch manufacturers are their own worst enemy in that they won’t or can’t educate the end users on how clutches work and how the APPLICATION of that clutch will break the very best gearboxes out there.

Clutches break parts. That is JUNK clutches break parts.

A very smart man who posts here has a saying that is so perfect that I’m going to paraphrase it here. He is 100% correct and his words are so perfect that I can’t say it better than he does. All credit to him and if he wants to come on here and correct me if I’m saying it wrong he can. But I’m pretty close to his exact words.

In a stick drive train there has to be something consumable. Something has to wear out or something will break.

That point in the drive train SHOULD be the clutch. More specifically the clutch disc so be that wear point.

If the clutch disc is aggressive and the plate pressure has too much spring load (pressure) it will break the weak link in the drive train.

If it’s the U joints then you fix that. Then the driveline will fail.

When you finally have everything full on Brutus sized you will brake 3rd gear.

Then you are screwed. There is nothing we can do to make 3rd gear any stronger. You can cry the gears, REM finish them, switch to 9310 gears, which don’t come in overdrive if you can still get them in any ratio.

And a junk clutch will kill all that trick stuff anyway.

If you want a stick do not buy a clutch based on its HP or torque. If you do, and the lying clutch companies talk you into a clutch rated that way don’t be surprised when it breaks parts.

Shame on those clutch companies for decades of garbage clutches and piss poor customer support.
 
No matter the trans, you're looking at getting a JW or whatever conversion bell housing to adapt to the big block. The 518/RH transmission take the same "hop up" parts as the 727. Better plates and hard parts are also available for the OD unit. A&A Transmissions are also Torqueflite experts. If you have the wherewithal to do your own trans, it will be relatively inexpensive. I have been buying parts/kits from a place called Transparts Warehouse. They carry name brands and have fair prices. They have an all inclusive kit for the RE/RH transmission, with the best plates and performance parts. Good parts and valve body mods get you a long ways on these.
I have been speaking with A&A as well, and appreciate the feedback. As much as I would like to build the tranny, that is not in my wheelhouse right now. I have the capacity and space in my shop to do it, but I don't have enough time to do it. I am gutting the truck, and doing most of the frame build, suspension, brakes, wiring, etc...I just finished my '67 Dart 'vert, and this was next on my list. I unfortunately have to farm out a few of the pieces, just so I can finish while I am still vertical.

I would have to say that trannies are one of the items I am not the biggest fan of working on. If I farm out one piece of a build for a vehicle, more times than not, it will most likely be the tranny.
 
You do NOT need an 18 spline gear box. That is straight nonsense.

If you are going to run a stick the last thing you need to consider is how much horsepower you have.

I can take a 170 inch slant 6 and blow third gear out of an 18 spline box so fast it would make your head spin.

Clutches, I should say junk clutches break transmissions. And most of the stuff out there is junk.

If you buy a B&B pressure plate and a GOOD organic clutch disc (like the Ram part number 327 which is an 18 spline hub but they make it in a 23 spline I just don’t know that pert number) and make sure that pressure plate is 2200-2400 pounds with no centrifugal assist and you’re golden.

It will drive nice, it won’t break parts if you start beating on it and the lever ratio on the B&B cover is nicer to drive. IMO anyway.

I can say that clutch manufacturers are their own worst enemy in that they won’t or can’t educate the end users on how clutches work and how the APPLICATION of that clutch will break the very best gearboxes out there.

Clutches break parts. That is JUNK clutches break parts.

A very smart man who posts here has a saying that is so perfect that I’m going to paraphrase it here. He is 100% correct and his words are so perfect that I can’t say it better than he does. All credit to him and if he wants to come on here and correct me if I’m saying it wrong he can. But I’m pretty close to his exact words.

In a stick drive train there has to be something consumable. Something has to wear out or something will break.

That point in the drive train SHOULD be the clutch. More specifically the clutch disc so be that wear point.

If the clutch disc is aggressive and the plate pressure has too much spring load (pressure) it will break the weak link in the drive train.

If it’s the U joints then you fix that. Then the driveline will fail.

When you finally have everything full on Brutus sized you will brake 3rd gear.

Then you are screwed. There is nothing we can do to make 3rd gear any stronger. You can cry the gears, REM finish them, switch to 9310 gears, which don’t come in overdrive if you can still get them in any ratio.

And a junk clutch will kill all that trick stuff anyway.

If you want a stick do not buy a clutch based on its HP or torque. If you do, and the lying clutch companies talk you into a clutch rated that way don’t be surprised when it breaks parts.

Shame on those clutch companies for decades of garbage clutches and piss poor customer support.
Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate the information. As I get closer I will for sure look at all of these parts.
 
i would contact Chris Andrews he is on this site often and is one of the best and i hear through the mopar vine he is alot better and eaiser to deal with than Cope .
I will absolutely reach out to him. He sounds like a wealth of information. Thank you.
 
I just want to put my 2cents in.
In your case, with 650 hp I'm assuming is normally aspirated, I'd contemplate the automatic, seriously. I think your life will just be so much easier.
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As for automatics;
If you don't know it;
The convertor acts like a two-speed autoshift by itself.
From a deadstop, it might have a ratio of 1.8 or more. When you invert that so you can compare it to your other transmission gears, 1/1.8= .56
This compares nicely to the Mopar 727 ratio splits of, .59 and .69. So then, from a dead stop it is acting exactly like another gear in the main box, and the splits are .56 going towards .59, then.69
But, the convertor begins to hydraulically alter it's ratio towards 1:1 just as soon as the car gets moving. At top speed, that ratio may be approaching 1.1 or less.
If you have a Lock-Up on it, that will finalize to 1:1, direct-drive. Thus the factory 727, will perform like as if it had 4.5 gears, compared to the A833, at just 4 gears.
This is why, factory cars almost always had 3.55s to the manual trans, compared to 3.23s for the automatics, cuz the manuals need the 10% more take-off torque multiplication, to keep up with the autos, in that very early stage of acceleration. Once the car is moving towards the top of first gear, the edge goes to the manual, with it's tighter splits and extra gear.
But
1) IMO, for a streeter, none of this makes a big deal, until you eliminate tirespin. and,
2) How much of the 650hp is on motor? and
how slow can you honestly idle that engine?
IMO, notta chance would I run a manual with that much normally-aspirated power, the reason being, is that 650 takes a heckuva cam, inferring a higher idle, and so, how do you drive slow.
3) lets say the lowest rpm that it will idle smoothly enough to pull itself is 900rpm. In 2.66 First gear, with 3.23s and 28s this comes to ~9mph..
4) whereas, to get that down to 4mph, will take at least twice as much rear-gear, say 7.00s, and/or a lower first gear, and/or a lower idle-speed. and Well, if it was possible to run a 7.00 rear gear, you'd need another gear or two, at the other end, to cruise with. Whereas
5) with an automatic and a higher stall, you can idle at any walking speed, thus
6) IMHO, this vehicle is begging for a 4-speed auto. lock-up optional.
7) These are my opinions.
**********************************************
as to a manual trans
Having said that,
the combination of Mopar Commando(3.09low), together with, a GVod, and at least 4.30s is a good option for this , if the engine has a good amount of low-rpm torque.
If you can get the engine to idle down to 650; with 4.30s and 28s, that translates to a tick over 4mph; and 65=~2600rpm

Now, if your engine on motor is say 450 hp, then you might get her down to 575/600 idle in gear. Ok then, 600 is ~ 3.75 mph, and say 575 is ~3.6mph........... now you can parade that beast.
And yes, I suppose you could run the Passon od or the Mopar od; however only the Mopar will get you the 3.09 low. So to get that 16% lower first gear with the Passon, she'll have to run 5.13s for an overall First Roadgear of 13.64, compared to the Mopar with 4.30s at 13.29

This presents a cruise rpm dilemma.
With 5.13s and .80 od, the Passon will run 65=3200, versus;
the Mopar with 4.30s and .73 od, will run ~2450
However, the Mopar OD gear is rather fragile, and I can practically guarantee you that unless you put a lock-out on it, you will break it.
Therefor do I run the combination of Commando with the GVod, and, at one time, 5.28s/4.88s/4.30s, until I figured out how to get my idle speed down.
So now, I get the 3.09 low AND the .78od, and the very tight splits.
For you with 4.30s, and with 28s; this comes to
640rpm= 4mph, and 65mph =2600
And, at ~430 hp, I have not been able to break anything except clutch-discs, which are my chosen weak point.
So
if you're gonna run a manual trans, I humbly suggest the combination of Commando/4.30s, and, with the GVod if hiway driving is a concern.
**********************************************
Before I sign off, I gotta mention that I use that GV as a gear-splitter, bypassing the GV shift module..
The commando ratios are
3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00-.78(GV).. with splits of; .62-.73-.72-.78
But I shift from third into od, then into 4od so my splits are actually;
.62-73-.78-.71od
Now
When splitting, I split the 1>2 , and then into od after second, so the ratios are;
3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50, and with 28s and 4.30s, that 1.50 ratio will get you 65=5040/6000=77mph,
and for me, 93mph in the Eighth comes at 6200 with 3.55s, lol.; that's one pull on the stick, and two lightning-quick electric shifts, with splits of; .78-.80-.78.
I mean, so there is that, lol.
BTW
If your meats are not 28s, then all rear mphs and rpms have to be adjust by whatever the percentage difference is, between 28 and whatever you actually have, for instance 32s would drop the rpms to .875, and the rear gear would have to increase by 1/.875= plus 14.3%..
If you need help, just ask; I got nothing better to do, cuz

<<<<<<<<< I'M RETIRED, yay >>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
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I just want to put my 2cents in.
In your case, with 650 hp I'm assuming is normally aspirated, I'd contemplate the automatic, seriously. I think your life will just be so much easier.
*******************************************
As for automatics;
If you don't know it;
The convertor acts like a two-speed autoshift by itself.
From a deadstop, it might have a ratio of 1.8 or more. When you invert that so you can compare it to your other transmission gears, 1/1.8= .56
This compares nicely to the Mopar 727 ratio splits of, .59 and .69. So then, from a dead stop it is acting exactly like another gear in the main box, and the splits are .56 going towards .59, then.69
But, the convertor begins to hydraulically alter it's ratio towards 1:1 just as soon as the car gets moving. At top speed, that ratio may be approaching 1.1 or less.
If you have a Lock-Up on it, that will finalize to 1:1, direct-drive. Thus the factory 727, will perform like as if it had 4.5 gears, compared to the A833, at just 4 gears.
This is why, factory cars almost always had 3.55s to the manual trans, compared to 3.23s for the automatics, cuz the manuals need the 10% more take-off torque multiplication, to keep up with the autos, in that very early stage of acceleration. Once the car is moving towards the top of first gear, the edge goes to the manual, with it's tighter splits and extra gear.
But
1) IMO, for a streeter, none of this makes a big deal, until you eliminate tirespin. and,
2) How much of the 650hp is on motor? and
how slow can you honestly idle that engine?
IMO, notta chance would I run a manual with that much normally-aspirated power, the reason being, is that 650 takes a heckuva cam, inferring a higher idle, and so, how do you drive slow.
3) lets say the lowest rpm that it will idle smoothly enough to pull itself is 900rpm. In 2.66 First gear, with 3.23s and 28s this comes to ~9mph..
4) whereas, to get that down to 4mph, will take at least twice as much rear-gear, say 7.00s, and/or a lower first gear, and/or a lower idle-speed. and Well, if it was possible to run a 7.00 rear gear, you'd need another gear or two, at the other end, to cruise with. Whereas
5) with an automatic and a higher stall, you can idle at any walking speed, thus
6) IMHO, this vehicle is begging for a 4-speed auto. lock-up optional.
7) These are my opinions.
**********************************************
as to a manual trans
Having said that,
the combination of Mopar Commando(3.09low), together with, a GVod, and at least 4.30s is a good option for this , if the engine has a good amount of low-rpm torque.
If you can get the engine to idle down to 650; with 4.30s and 28s, that translates to a tick over 4mph; and 65=~2600rpm

Now, if your engine on motor is say 450 hp, then you might get her down to 575/600 idle in gear. Ok then, 600 is ~ 3.75 mph, and say 575 is ~3.6mph........... now you can parade that beast.
And yes, I suppose you could run the Passon od or the Mopar od; however only the Mopar will get you the 3.09 low. So to get that 16% lower first gear with the Passon, she'll have to run 5.13s for an overall First Roadgear of 13.64, compared to the Mopar with 4.30s at 13.29

This presents a cruise rpm dilemma.
With 5.13s and .80 od, the Passon will run 65=3200, versus;
the Mopar with 4.30s and .73 od, will run ~2450
However, the Mopar OD gear is rather fragile, and I can practically guarantee you that unless you put a lock-out on it, you will break it.
Therefor do I run the combination of Commando with the GVod, and, at one time, 5.28s/4.88s/4.30s, until I figured out how to get my idle speed down.
So now, I get the 3.09 low AND the .78od, and the very tight splits.
For you with 4.30s, and with 28s; this comes to
640rpm= 4mph, and 65mph =2600
And, at ~430 hp, I have not been able to break anything except clutch-discs, which are my chosen weak point.
So
if you're gonna run a manual trans, I humbly suggest the combination of Commando/4.30s, and, with the GVod if hiway driving is a concern.
**********************************************
Before I sign off, I gotta mention that I use that GV as a gear-splitter, bypassing the GV shift module..
The commando ratios are
3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00-.78(GV).. with splits of; .62-.73-.72-.78
But I shift from third into od, then into 4od so my splits are actually;
.62-73-.78-.71od
Now
When splitting, I split the 1>2 , and then into od after second, so the ratios are;
3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50, and with 28s and 4.30s, that 1.50 ratio will get you 65=5040/6000=77mph,
and for me, 93mph in the Eighth comes at 6200 with 3.55s, lol.; that's one pull on the stick, and two lightning-quick electric shifts, with splits of; .78-.80-.78.
I mean, so there is that, lol.
BTW
If your meats are not 28s, then all rear mphs and rpms have to be adjust by whatever the percentage difference is, between 28 and whatever you actually have, for instance 32s would drop the rpms to .875, and the rear gear would have to increase by 1/.875= plus 14.3%..
If you need help, just ask; I got nothing better to do, cuz

<<<<<<<<< I'M RETIRED, yay >>>>>>>>>>>>>
That was a lot more than two-cents worth, but very much appreciated. I had basic knowledge of what you are stating, but this definitely helps. If you're willing to school me on more transmission intelligence, I would absolutely ask for that. As I get closer to the time for the transmission purchase, would you be good if I reach out to speak with you regarding some of the specifics I should be looking for out of the transmission, and who you would recommend building it for me. Thank you again.
 
ZF 8HP90 like from the modern Challengers, Chargers, Ram trucks... stock will handle your HP/torque (come from factory behind Hellcats) and since it's a truck you likely won't have to deal with much floor pan surgery. The trannys themselves are not expensive and plentiful, just need a controller, adapter plate and yoke. You'd need an adapter plate regardless because big blocks never came from the factory with an overdrive transmission. Technically that's not entirely a Mopar tranny though, it was designed and built by ZF and installed in Chrysler RWD/4WD vehicles.

I like the idea of keeping the 4-speed and adding a GV unit though, IMO that's the most straightforward option.
 
I drove Mike Musto's B-Body with a 727 and a Gear Vendors for a couple days while tuning it. I found that the small amount of overdrive it provides, helps, but it's not quite enough to warrant the expense.
 
That was a lot more than two-cents worth, but very much appreciated. I had basic knowledge of what you are stating, but this definitely helps. If you're willing to school me on more transmission intelligence, I would absolutely ask for that. As I get closer to the time for the transmission purchase, would you be good if I reach out to speak with you regarding some of the specifics I should be looking for out of the transmission, and who you would recommend building it for me. Thank you again.
I just received a call back from A&A as well, and spoke with them about the points you had brought up in the thread, and they agreed with your assessment regarding using a built 727, gear it correctly, and run a specific converter/rear gear that will put highway cruising RPM's where they're comfortable. After speaking with them about whether they would put the GV overdrive on the tail of the 727, they were of the mindset to build the tranny correctly, and it shouldn't need it. They did mention that it is a very reliable product, so after the original build of the 727, if it didn't match the cruising RPM I was looking for, I could send the transmission back and have the GV unit added.

Once I get all the particulars for the engine figured out, and where the power will take place in the RPM band, if I could reach out and discuss options you'd recommend, that would be extremely helpful.
 
ZF 8HP90 like from the modern Challengers, Chargers, Ram trucks... stock will handle your HP/torque (come from factory behind Hellcats) and since it's a truck you likely won't have to deal with much floor pan surgery. The trannys themselves are not expensive and plentiful, just need a controller, adapter plate and yoke. You'd need an adapter plate regardless because big blocks never came from the factory with an overdrive transmission. Technically that's not entirely a Mopar tranny though, it was designed and built by ZF and installed in Chrysler RWD/4WD vehicles.

I like the idea of keeping the 4-speed and adding a GV unit though, IMO that's the most straightforward option.
Hmmm … the ZF is a Nazi manufacturer. Bad Mojo … lol
But seriously they are the old Zeppelin Co. Just a bit of trivia.
Good tranys.
 
Hmmm … the ZF is a Nazi manufacturer. Bad Mojo … lol
But seriously they are the old Zeppelin Co. Just a bit of trivia.
Good tranys.
This is a great option, and one I started exploring a couple of days ago. Thank you for the information.
 
I will be . I have a built 46rh on my bench that will probably handle 650 hp . They build them for built cummins ….
Did you build it yourself? If so where did you buy your parts and what kit/parts did you use?
 
My plan was to build it myself but I had too many projects and not enough time. I had a shop that I know the owner of assemble it .
I honestly don’t recall exactly all the different parts I bought . I got upgraded clutches and plates . Sonnax pistons , good bands and the Transgo shift kit .
Some of the Sonnax parts they did not install because they would conflict with the Transgo kit and make the shift too hard .
I also used and higher ration lever that I already .
 
Anyone considering a modern gearbox like the NAG1 or 8hp70 should keep in mind what allows them to live behind a hellcat, or even a regular 5.7.

Torque management.

It's been used since at least the 42TE in the 90s to reduce engine power on a shift and dramatically improve transmission life. If you're not running a hemi with a factory AT computer or an aftermarket ECU that has the ability to trigger a timing retard from an external input, you'll need to run a timing retard box.
 
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I drove Mike Musto's B-Body with a 727 and a Gear Vendors for a couple days while tuning it. I found that the small amount of overdrive it provides, helps, but it's not quite enough to warrant the expense.
Just out of curiosity as I'm doing a 4L60 install as we speak...how far from the floor to the center of the trans output shaft did you end up at...I know this has nothing to do with the drive line angles..tanks
 
Just out of curiosity as I'm doing a 4L60 install as we speak...how far from the floor to the center of the trans output shaft did you end up at...I know this has nothing to do with the drive line angles..tanks
Did you use the 2-peice case 4L60E?

The tunnel floor looks like it may have been "massaged" about a 1/4" from the previous 2004R car-prep.

The measurement I set this time resulted in 4 1/4" from the center of the output shaft to the floor bottom.
 
This is the unit that I’m using…likely started as a 4x4 truck trans…

IMG_2886.jpeg
 
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