Has anyone had any issues from running without the thermostat, and is it standard procedure for drag racing apps. The car hasn't been running in 25 years but it always ran hot, and the radiator repairman said the flow was borderline then. A new radiator isn't readily available so I am headed out now to swap in one of my used ones after flow is checked. I just installed a high volume electric fan 2200cfm and believe that should be adequate. The thermostat is set as low as it will go about 180? and can not stop it from over heating. I am also going to advance the timing some more since its around 10 before now and no detonation. The build is a tired 318 out of a customers truck ran ok just leaked and he wanted a crate eng. It has an old purple cam and stock iron 4bbl intake and holley 600cfm carb.
overheating 318
- Thread starter barra65
- Start date
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1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you have some problems there.
When does it bet hot?
Sitting in traffic?
Driving down the highway at 55?
I know may look like simple questions but they really help narrow down the problem.
When does it bet hot?
Sitting in traffic?
Driving down the highway at 55?
I know may look like simple questions but they really help narrow down the problem.
69cudaconv
Member
you state it has not run in 25 years? If water was left in the cooling system, the water pump is disintegrated and the cooling passages in the head as well as the block are rusted and most likely have scaling rust blocking passages. Was the system flushed out before you tried to run it? If so, what came out? And as 1968FormulaS340 asked, when does it run hot?
I can tell you what I've found... I must say that the only reason for my removing the freeze plugs is 1 behind the starter stayed damp from just the tiniest seepage. The one was rusted almost completely through. Anyway.. Once it was removed I discovered huge chunks of rusty crud and previous owners stop leak. So much that the next freeze plug forward was knocked out and the same 2 on the other side. High pressure hose under the car. 1 hour job turned into day and a half. Total of 4 freeze plugs replaced.
Here's what I think I learned... Any and all material in the water is going to settle at the lowest and farthest location from whatever agitates it ( shaken or stirred ).
Not only was the stuff restricting flow but some heat soaking was occurring too.
Flow through a radiator, a system that holds water and water pressure, all important.
Circulation throughout the system is also important.
Adding a coolant recovery setup will keep air out of the system to help prevent rust.
Honestly... I like raising the hood and seeing clean green fluid at the correct level in the bottle. That tells me nearly everything I need to know about cooling system health at a glance.
Here's what I think I learned... Any and all material in the water is going to settle at the lowest and farthest location from whatever agitates it ( shaken or stirred ).
Not only was the stuff restricting flow but some heat soaking was occurring too.
Flow through a radiator, a system that holds water and water pressure, all important.
Circulation throughout the system is also important.
Adding a coolant recovery setup will keep air out of the system to help prevent rust.
Honestly... I like raising the hood and seeing clean green fluid at the correct level in the bottle. That tells me nearly everything I need to know about cooling system health at a glance.
You would be surprised at how much "mud" settles out in bottom of radiator, plus the tubes becoming coated reducing heat transfer.
Running w/o a T-stat predisposes areas of engine to a less-than uniform temperature gradient water-induced (possible) warpage..
Check bottom radiator hose to see if it is collapsing when rpms are up a tad..
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