overheating issues

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ice1 dart

ice1 dart

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:munky2:Running into trouble here and scratching my head.
this is what i got. 75 dart swinger with a 440 stroked to 500. 84 cc edebrock rpm head. edelbrock pro flow multi port fuel injection. keisler 4 speed auto trans. aluminum radiator with electric fans. meizere electric water pump. t stat is 180. also i have no heater.

finally put the engine together and dropped it in. trying to fine tune the fuelinjection but the engine keeps overheating. wondering if the elcetric water pump has anything to do with it. thinking about re converting it back to mechanical and i'm about to remove the t stat. also the base timing is at 10 btdc.

any ideas?
 
I had the same problem with mine. I tried removing the thermostat and made it worse. The water was circulaing too fast thru the radiator and not cooling enough. I installed a fan for an HHR. Replaced the thermostat with a 160. Idles all day at 190. Also used wetter water.
 
using a high flow t-stat already . gonna try that 160 deg t stat and see what happens.

sorry hhr fans ?
 
chevy hhr
their version of the pt cruiser
fan assy
shroud/motor/blade just need to wire it up
gm#25784660
sugg list $123.75
fits 07-11 non ss models
 
Rock Auto.com
​
Part Number​
Part Type​
Price EA​
Core EA​
Quantity​
Total​
2007 CHEVROLET HHR LS 2.2L 2198cc 134cid L4 FI (D) DOHC
TYC​
621450
Radiator Fan Assembly
$ 51.79​
$ 0.00​
1​
$ 51.79​
Shipping​
Ground (FedEx or UPS)
$ 8.17​
Order Total​

$ 59.96
 
thanks guys. appreciate the suggestions. im just a novice.

herre's aanother question

anybody running an edelbrock pro flow multiport fuel injection? any suggestions for the edelbrock pro flow set up?.
running a 230 @ .050 int 236 @. 050 ex
lobe seperation 113
gross valve lift int .583 and ex .586
comp cam roller rocker.
nothing extreme
 
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080914234012AAvrpip

here is a link to heat coefficients

i pretty sure your fans are pullin enough air. and you pretty sure your tune is in. let us know how the high flow stat works

is there a way to verify your sending unit is correct? if the rad is 170 and the gauge is 220 something is definitely crossed up.

your using an autometer gauge and the edelbrock sending unit.

we need pics of this ride of yours
 
You need better fans if your car is running hot while trying to tune it. You are not getting enough air or the radiator is to small.
 
440s have air pocket issues, make sure the radiator fill point is the highest point in the system. If the temp guage isnt fluctuating wildly then you probably dont have an air pocket, the thermostats have a tiny weep hole in em to bleed air out but it takes awhile. The hot water in the radiator needs to have a chance to cool down so it could be a fan issue or maybe the motor is running way lean.
 
Well before we start throwing parts at the car, make sure you've got the cooling system bled properly.

Like mentioned, make sure the radiator is the highest point in the cooling system. With the engine off and cool, remove the radiator cap and fill it with the proper mixture of coolant or whatever youre going to run. Start the car, leave the cap off and let it warm up to allow upper radiator hose to get hot and pressurize. If theres air in the system it'll escape through the radiator cap (you'll notice the coolant level will drop slightly). Shut it off and let it cool down, then top off the fluid if need be. Repeat the steps just for good measure then put the cap on and see if the problem is still there.

Leave the 180 tstat in there. Not running a thermostat will make the engine overheat and using a 160 tstat will just be a bandaid, plus engines aren't efficient at those low temperatures and it'll wear alot faster. I'd even consider replacing the high flow tstat with a normal one. Either way it may be a good idea to take it out and make sure its opening/closing correctly. If its rated at 180*, thats the temperature that it will BEGIN to open and should open fully about 15* higher.

Also if youre running too much timing advance and/or running too lean that can cause overheating as well. I can't help you on the figures you need for your EFI system but a basic rule for timing/fuel is a cold engine needs a little more timing and fuel. The warmer it gets the less timing it needs and you can start to lean it out a bit for maximum efficiency.

Thats where I would start out at since none of that will really cost you any money, maybe just a little time. Also make sure your water temp gauge sensor and cooling fan sensors are near each other and near the thermostat for the correct readings.
 
hey guys thanks for all the advise. i got everything to cool down. my mixture was a little too lean and the fan temp switch was a little off. my guage reads about 200 degrees and it is steady. just need to play with the timing and fuel mixtures and attempt to work out all the tuning issues.
 
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