Overheating issues

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I'm comparing the circulation nec to suck water up to the heater core, (which some vehicles is way higher than the engine) and rear seat heater core, then back to the same cavity of the pump as the radiator hose, and wonder once the coolant get to the upper apex, why it wouldn't return downhill to the pump inlet .
Still considering, thnx George .
 
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My assumption is that the bypass hose to the intake and the out port to the heater core (from the water pump) is being fed by the higher pressure coming off the water pump forcing the air out of the smaller line and the heater core, before it is slowed down by the thermostat, as when the thermostat opens that is what feeds the hot coolant from the engine to the top tank of the radiator.

You don't want an air bubble in the high spot of the upper radiator hose, you want that excess air to end up at the high point of the cooling system in the top tank 1" down from the bottom of the radiator cap and yet still above the top of the radiator cores.

Kind of like this heater core bypass loop for use on the engine run stand, yet the top of this loop is still below the top tank entrance port.

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Hope this helps.
 
Maybe this helps:

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The hot coolant entering the heater core should be on the bottom port of the heater core to push the air out and then the top core port sends it back to the water pump to push it back through the engine then on to the radiator.

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Cooling system ^^^ with the Coolant Recovery Tank, runs with the radiator 100% full of coolant.

May be a way for the OP to pull more heat out of his system?

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George Jets said:
Upper hose is too high, it's above the top of the radiator acting like an upside down P-Trap blocking the flow of hot water into the radiator for cooling.

Heat Rises, then stops at the highest point.....


Needs to flow uphill on a gradual incline to the top tank of radiator.

View attachment 1716110717


Another picture on how not to route it:

View attachment 1716110729

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That hose is on the PRESSURE side. No F’ing way is it trapping air there.

Damn. Just damn.
 
My vote is on ignition timing. IMO while that cooling system isn't perfect it shouldn't have a problem cooling that 440 at idle and cruise; something is causing the engine to emit more heat than it should be. Are you running vacuum advance?
 
Rat Bastid said:
That hose is on the PRESSURE side. No F’ing way is it trapping air there.

Damn. Just damn.
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Agree, it's not blocking flow. It can trap air if it is above the radiator. It would need a bleed at the high point to allow air to escape and the fill point to be higher than the high point to completely fill the system.
 
Been dealing with a funeral recently, cancer sucks.
There's no heater core in the car. The original ac box from the 318 was removed when the 440 was put in. I do not believe the overflow is being vented, will definitely look at that later tonight. I'm picking up my radiator from the shop today, we'll see what he has to say about it. Will also look at putting a spring in the lower rad hose.
Timing is not something I'm really knowledgeable on, but will try to get a timing light and figure it out to see where I'm at.
 
Picked up the radiator at lunch, (its a 3 row if I didn't state earlier) and they said it was blocked with all kinds of gunk. When I picked it up, had quite a bit of rattle for something that was supposedly cleaned. They flushed it again and tiny bits of rust came out, a piece looking like a thread insert or something. I'm a bit concerned for my engine block now if there was that much rust clogging the radiator.
 
Might be a real pita but you could try removing the freeze plugs on each side of the block, clean out whatever junk is there, flush out and install some new brass plugs. Definitely not a fun job but maybe doable?
 
Need to flush your block and heads out good before putting that clean radiator back in, heater core too.

Can make a garden hose adapter to screw into the block drain ports to back flush each bank and the heads.

Good job for outside.

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I attempted running the engine without the radiator and connected a garden hose to one side, just to see if anything debris would come out. (removed thermostat out of the way too)
The water should be sucked up from the bottom and come spewing out the top, right? Only seemed to take water from the top and feed it down to the bottom.
 
phaelax said:
I attempted running the engine without the radiator and connected a garden hose to one side, just to see if anything debris would come out. (removed thermostat out of the way too)
The water should be sucked up from the bottom and come spewing out the top, right? Only seemed to take water from the top and feed it down to the bottom.
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Maybe the water pump is running backwards.
 
With the correct adapters you could make a hisecadapler for the lower hose.

The hose is 1.5 id (IIRC) go buy a pvc pipe cap that is at or slightly smaller than 1.5od add a hose fitting to it.
Screenshot_20230710-174050.png


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Looks like 1.25" schedule 40 pvc would work


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Hook up the hose on a low flow, at some point the water will come out of the upper hose.
Then if you start the engine and turn up the hose flow you should be able to run like a boat.
 
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In the past I had a 383 that had ran and was full of crap, had it hanging from the loader tractor outside.

Screwed a pipe nipple into one of the lower bank block drain ports and clamped a garden hose onto it. With the other bank drain port out and the thermostat out, turned on the garden hose and watched the Orange water and crap flow out all the openings.

Then switched banks and turned on the garden hose again, more orange water and crap.

Kept alternating back and forth until the water ran clean from both banks and all the exits.

Yeah that was nasty inside, and yes it had plugged the radiator, so that needed to be reverse flushed too. Did get it all cleaned out nicely in the end.

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If you removed the thermostat and ran the water hose in it and it came out the bottom and was not shooting out of the top hose, something is WRONG. I would be removing that water pump.
 
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Quick update. I went ahead and just hooked everything back up and filled the rad with thermocure and water to help clean out the system. I couldn't get the drain plugs on the block to budge at all, any more force I was about to start stripping the bolt heads. I think I can reach some of the freeze plugs, but two of them are definitely obstructed by the headers. I've planned to remove those to wrap them sometime soon anyway.

Before, I could only get about 3 miles down the road before it'd get over 200. Tonight I drove maybe 6 miles (a mix of stop and go around town) and it never got over 190. Would've kept going just to see but had pizza in the oven :p
I'll see tomorrow how it does on a longer journey but maybe all it really was the radiator afterall.
 
phaelax said:
Quick update. I went ahead and just hooked everything back up and filled the rad with thermocure and water to help clean out the system. I couldn't get the drain plugs on the block to budge at all, any more force I was about to start stripping the bolt heads. I think I can reach some of the freeze plugs, but two of them are definitely obstructed by the headers. I've planned to remove those to wrap them sometime soon anyway.

Before, I could only get about 3 miles down the road before it'd get over 200. Tonight I drove maybe 6 miles (a mix of stop and go around town) and it never got over 190. Would've kept going just to see but had pizza in the oven :p
I'll see tomorrow how it does on a longer journey but maybe all it really was the radiator afterall.
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Encouraging news indeed .
Good luck .
 
Unless you want to remove the radiator again & have it rodded it out....read what follows.
The rubbish that was in the rad came from the engine.....not the rad. So there will still be rubbish inside the engine. You will never get rid of it by flushing with a hose. At higher rpms that stuff will be dislodged....& will block the rad again. What you need is a filter in the top rad hose to catch the rubbish BEFORE it gets to the rad. The filter I use has a s/s gauze inside with a screw cap to remove & empty the filter periodically.
 
Bewy said:
Unless you want to remove the radiator again & have it rodded it out....read what follows.
The rubbish that was in the rad came from the engine.....not the rad. So there will still be rubbish inside the engine. You will never get rid of it by flushing with a hose. At higher rpms that stuff will be dislodged....& will block the rad again. What you need is a filter in the top rad hose to catch the rubbish BEFORE it gets to the rad. The filter I use has a s/s gauze inside with a screw cap to remove & empty the filter periodically.
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Do you have a picture of your set up?
 
Your fan needs to be halfway out of the shroud or it will work worse than no shroud at all. I found that out the hard way.
 
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