Painless wiring starter relay

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mod38-1

mod38-1

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I am starting to install a painless wiring harness into a 69 cuda that is in process of being put together. The car is not going to be stock so factory appearance and workings does not matter. It looks like the instructions show how to do it without the factory starter relay on one page and then on the next page they show the factory relay. Has anyone done the install without the factory starter relay? I attached a copy of the install they show without a starter relay.

480EBF8A-A842-4665-BEEF-C770B80E9F91.jpeg
 
I did the painless in my 72 duster. Used the starter relay, and mounted to the drivers side kick panel up high under the dash, along with the fuse panel. as I don’t have a heater box in the car.

The starter relay is also the interlock for neutral. In theory you could bypass, but I don’t see the reason why you would.

If your going to run an MSD or such, I believe I hooked wires 931 and 933 together. It’s been a few years. But can look in the morning..
 
Unless you are using a heavy duty HEAVY duty push button, etc, you need to use a relay. It also incorporates the neutral safety if you are running an automatic Newer "rigs" like the RAM/ Dakotas use a Bosch style relay instead of the traditional older style "as we know"
 
Thanks for the info so far. I will wire it using the starter relay.
 
Some of the main "Pains" with Painless may have changed as I did take a look at the destructions recently for another member

1...The IGN1/ IGN2 situation with Mopar ignition switches This is going to depend on whether you ever will use an ignition system that requires a ballast resistor. If so, make sure a brown from IGN2 gets run out into the engine bay, which connects to coil+ side of the coil. If no ballast, then jumper IGN1 and IGN2 together either at the switch or in the bay

2...Mopar late model isolated field (70 and later) alternator field/ VR wiring "I forget" I think Painless gives you a key-switched wire called "alternator exciter" but I may be wrong--that wire may be tied up with charge warning light. In any case you need "Ignition run" voltage to the VR and to the alternator field

3...If you use it, the ammeter wiring. The big thing is now that you've eliminated the bulkhead connector, use bigger wire for adequate charge, and consider using larger wire than Painless supplied. If you keep the ammeter, tear it apart and inspect it and at the very least, solder the studs to the buts/ shunt, preferably with silver based solder
 
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