Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Results may vary. My cars live outdoors.
Under the hood? Coating on the outside keeps intake from absorbing heat from under the hood and coating on the inside keep s the fuel mixture cool.What and why is a thermal barrier? Don’t you want heat conduction for maximum dissipation though radiation?
Looks good. What paint did you end up going with?
I had this in my shop. Mixed a little slow reducer.Looks good. What paint did you end up going with?
Yes! I've done this for 30 years, but I'm cheap and just put a dab of RTV about three quarters of the way up from the bottom of the bolt. Nothing down where it counts on the threads as far as torque, but low enough that when the bolt rotates through the hole in the intake, it gets a good little "O ring"One other tip I'll pass along is to use thread sealer on every one of your intake bolts so oil doesn't wick back up the bolts and puddle oil in the little valleys below the bolts.
I'm gonna be different and say have it powdercoated.
For future reference who/where is Leanna?
100% agree. Ask me how I know! LOL.Check to see if your valve covers still fit with the new intake before you paint it. You may have to clearance one or the other.
@CudaChick1968For future reference who/where is Leanna?
No the holes were good. I used JB Weld and tapped them in. I test fitted each plug as there was some variability, so some plugs fit better than others.Did you have to hone the holes out in the Magnum bolt pattern to get the plugs knocked in? I bought one of those intakes a while back when someone had them on sale cheap. I noticed that the plugs seemed to be too big for the holes, is why I asked. You did a good job on the paint!
“Infected dog butt”Any clear will yellow over time, BUT raw aluminum will look like infected dog butt in short order unless you paint it with something.
I went to the hardware store to see if I could match the color of my manifold. I asked if they had “infected dog but” but they just ran out and said just wait.“Infected dog butt”
It is. I always thought it would be easier if the relief was in the manifold. I always put a few small dabs of gasket sealer in the relief of the housing and then put the thermostat in the housing and give the sealant a few minutes to set up. Then install the gasket and place the housing on the manifold. The few dabs of sealant keep the thermostat from slipping and getting stuck in between the manifold and housing outside of the relief which could go unnoticed.The relief must be in the mating housing?
I always "stud" bolt holes in aluminum. Years ago I fought a thermostat leak in a brand new performer and had to Helicoil the threads after several rounds of torquing.So I am still waiting on my thermostat water housing. I assume that not having a thermostat relief for the thermostat to sit in the manifold is normal? The relief must be in the mating housing?
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