Back story. When I was sipper in HS my father and I started a project turning a 1976 Warlock and melding it with parts for a 1979 LRE. We spent 2 years from 1993-1995 doing everything but paint. My father was a body man for years, but those years of inadequate ventilation and 10' tall and bullet proof attitude built up toxins in his system to the point he cannot paint without being bed ridden for 2 weeks after. This has never been a trailer queen. It has pulled a camper across MT several times and has driven to everywhere it has been. Put a new motor in her a couple years back, new wheels, and hand built ground effects. Last spring my fathers motorcycle tipped over and banged up a rear fender. We figured it was to late to get painted for summer so made arrangements with local paint shop for all new paint this spring. We took it to them 6 weeks ago. Finally got it back 2 days ago at the eleventh hour for the local cars show. We took it home fri afternoon and began a furious attempt to detail it. While cleaning we found rock chips that were just painted over, dirt in the clear, hair in the clear, inside of tailgate sanded but not painted, numerous spots where the clear is so thin it is rough, they didn't paint the front valence panel, an a 10" long gouge in the front fender that was painted over. I feel sick, angry, frustrated, and annoyed. Ill try to get more pictures...
Paint Job blues
- Thread starter MTmopars
- Start date
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1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
What was the agreement you had with the body shop?
As far as the rough spots in the clear, it may (or may not) just be a little dry spray. Could still be more than enough material there to wet sand and polish.
As far as the rough spots in the clear, it may (or may not) just be a little dry spray. Could still be more than enough material there to wet sand and polish.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
painting over the chips would piss me off.. pure laziness in prep.
i swear body shops have way too many crooks running them
i swear body shops have way too many crooks running them
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
No, body techs get paid on commission. That is why I asked about the work agreement.
How many times have you seen the old "ready for paint". If someone does the bulk of the work at home, and the agreement with the shop is that it will be "ready for paint" when it comes in and the price quoted is based on it being "ready for paint", this kind of stuff happens.
I don't know if that was the agreement but you need to realize, doing "Free" work and being lazy are not the same thing.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
yes, way too many crooks in the body shop world.
sounds to me like the op wanted all the stuff fixed.
the chips not being addressed properly aside. the hair in the clear, tail gate sanded but not painted, dirt in the clear and not painting the valance is just a poor job. sounds like a rush job to me even though they had the truck for 6 weeks...
sounds to me like the op wanted all the stuff fixed.
the chips not being addressed properly aside. the hair in the clear, tail gate sanded but not painted, dirt in the clear and not painting the valance is just a poor job. sounds like a rush job to me even though they had the truck for 6 weeks...
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
I'm not defending everything, some of that is clearly sloppy and incomplete work but "Agreement was fix the rough stuff and repaint." is vague at best.
Love the owner of the body shop. He is very busy. We were glad to get in. He painted the truck the first time and did a grand job. This time though... I think it was a rush job. The inexcusable thing for me is the 10 gouge that was not there when we took it to them, the tail gate, the dirt in the clear, and the rough clear. They were worried enough about the finished product to strip the hood and block it smooth.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
vague or not. fix the rough stuff is direct enough to fix a 10" gouge and to paint the tailgate you sanded.
i'm sure or i hope it was discussed in more detail then just fix the rough stuff at the time in person.
Taking more pictures I have noticed most of the problems are on the driver side. The rock chips were taken care of on the passenger side.
This is the gouge. It's about 10" long and in three distinct scratches under the base coat. It's hard to get a picture of inside.
This is the gouge. It's about 10" long and in three distinct scratches under the base coat. It's hard to get a picture of inside.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Who took it in? I see what you are saying about the uncompleted work and it is pretty bad when a shop puts out something with some of it not painted. Was there a work order/contract done?
My father took it in. He and the body shop owner are friends. He really is a great guy. I just don't think he had a chance to look it over before sending it out because it was such an 11th hour thing. My father and I were in their shop putting mirrors and stacks on while they finished applying the stripes so it could be in the local car show the next morning. I have no doubt that it will be made right but it is just so frustrating. I am sure it will be for him as well when he sees everything in the light. Nobody wins here. Everyone is out money and time.
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Don't rush paint prep. Ever. If you've got a deadline, you will have problems later. If you've got chips or other problems, STOP and fix it. When I paint cars, I go through a sheet of 1000 and about 3 tac cloths when I'm in the booth, making sure things are super clean and flat.
I think you can go over the said problem areas with some open blends, then sanded and polished in without any serious issues. The damage should be sanded out, primed, based, cleared and blended.
Paint chips on non-metallic colors can be fixed with 1000 sanding the surrounding area, 600 on the chip, glaze, sand the glaze putty with 800, paint with touch up brush, sand again with 1500 and repeat until you get full color coverage that is completely flat after sanding, clear with a touch up brush over the smal base area, let dry, sand again with 1500 then 2000 and micro polish. On an edge of a panel, you can feather out a chip ok and do the same thing without glaze.
I think these guys had in mind that they needed to get you the truck before a certain date and had to skip on some things that typically take more time to deal with.
This thing looks like it was scuffed and shot. I don't trust aftermarket paint to stick as much as others and prefer a 600 grit cut on a complete.
I'm sure they will stand by their work. Live and learn, you know?
I think you can go over the said problem areas with some open blends, then sanded and polished in without any serious issues. The damage should be sanded out, primed, based, cleared and blended.
Paint chips on non-metallic colors can be fixed with 1000 sanding the surrounding area, 600 on the chip, glaze, sand the glaze putty with 800, paint with touch up brush, sand again with 1500 and repeat until you get full color coverage that is completely flat after sanding, clear with a touch up brush over the smal base area, let dry, sand again with 1500 then 2000 and micro polish. On an edge of a panel, you can feather out a chip ok and do the same thing without glaze.
I think these guys had in mind that they needed to get you the truck before a certain date and had to skip on some things that typically take more time to deal with.
This thing looks like it was scuffed and shot. I don't trust aftermarket paint to stick as much as others and prefer a 600 grit cut on a complete.
I'm sure they will stand by their work. Live and learn, you know?
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Do you do this stuff for a living?
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
You just enjoy being contraire, I get it.
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