paint runs

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other than the runs it is looking good- remember it doesnt matter if you are a good painter as long as you have the patience to fix the mistakes!

if you are using ss and the paint is NOT a metallic (the runs will be invisible after you repair them) and feel what is in the cup is to pricey to toss, then keep spraying- it may take a little longer to cut the runs, but you wont be out the paint and you should be able to fix the runs with some patience
 
other than the runs it is looking good- remember it doesnt matter if you are a good painter as long as you have the patience to fix the mistakes!

if you are using ss and the paint is NOT a metallic (the runs will be invisible after you repair them) and feel what is in the cup is to pricey to toss, then keep spraying- it may take a little longer to cut the runs, but you wont be out the paint and you should be able to fix the runs with some patience

yeah the opposite of what i said before- but i didnt realize you had everything mixed-
 
other than the runs it is looking good- remember it doesnt matter if you are a good painter as long as you have the patience to fix the mistakes!

if you are using ss and the paint is NOT a metallic (the runs will be invisible after you repair them) and feel what is in the cup is to pricey to toss, then keep spraying- it may take a little longer to cut the runs, but you wont be out the paint and you should be able to fix the runs with some patience


Will they fix later? Id really hate to lose the paint. I mixed what I thought I would need to do the job.
 
other than the runs it is looking good- remember it doesnt matter if you are a good painter as long as you have the patience to fix the mistakes!

if you are using ss and the paint is NOT a metallic (the runs will be invisible after you repair them) and feel what is in the cup is to pricey to toss, then keep spraying- it may take a little longer to cut the runs, but you wont be out the paint and you should be able to fix the runs with some patience

XS 2 .....my SS paint had an 8 hour pot life


but..if it were me....

i would wait a few hours and try to lightly and slowly knock down the runs and resquirt it
 
something to consider is waiting for it to dry, wet sand the runs with 400 grit but don't sand through them, scuff the rest of the paint with 400 grit or a scuff pad and then spray it with clear coat. I know my paint was $285.00 a gallon without hardners and thinner and clear coat is about have that price, so it would be cheaper to spray clear than respray color. Just an option!
 
if i wait for it to dry pot live says about 3hrs. Im already an hour into it. So waiting to dry I will have to toss the paint.
 
They should. and at this point the paint is either going in the trash or on the car- not much to lose. as some of the others mentioned there is a sweet spot to cut them out- too soon an the paint is soft and you can go too deep- too long and it is so hard it is difficult to sand out the scratches.

I would finish shooting, then spend some quality time with the tech sheet for timing.

Worst case scenario if you mess something up fixing the runs you give the car a quick scuff and a quick coat or 2 to clean it up.
 
Weather for Fort Dodge, IA
72°F | °C

Clear
Wind: NW at 7 mph
Humidity: 38%

looks like you have perfect painting weather today- so pot times/ flash times should be true.
 
to heck with it. Ill continue and trying and sand them out in the end. I cant waste the paint so either way im sanding. Maybe more in the end.
 
You can't expect to be a pro first time out.

Painting is part science and part art....throw in some luck, timing and patience.

Nothing like running the air hose against a freshly painted panel, or a making a butt-print...or just plain old having a fender fall onto the ground becuase you didn't hang it up secure enough. Been there and done that.

Years ago I was painting my Belvedere's roof on my parent's driveway when a freak sun shower hit and rained on it.

My first base coat / clear coat paint job...the paint place sold me the wrong clear coat and it crinkled the whole paint job...so much for consulting experts...I had to start all over.

I would wait and sand it down and give it another go.

Paul
 
ehh my choices were limited on what to do. So I went ahead and used what I had. Ill try and sand them out. if not guess im back to square one which either way I would have to order paint.
 
..so much for consulting experts...I had to start all over.

friend painted my car. 4 tries to get the flat black hood right. wanted something with a clear. first attempt dried with while spots and streaks in it. ez followed directions to a "t". second attempt with a different flattening agent in the clear resulted in shiny spots. third attempt, with yet again a different brand of flattening agent looked like there was no flattening agent mixed in. he gave up and just sprayed it flat black, no clear. looking back at it we should have just got the ridiculously expensive right stuff and been done with it....
 
good choice on putting the rest of the paint on,you will be able to 400
block sand any infection's out and the car will look better next time you
spray it. I KNOW paint price's suck, but it will be long forgotten soon.
 
DAMN! That ain't no run, Thats Niagra Falls Bro!! LOL!!!

Don't sweat it! You don't need to do the whole car. Just fix the panels with runs and reapply. If you didn't sand too far on the first paint job you may not have to reshoot at all depending on how thick the paint is. Let it dry for the rest of the day and get at it in the morning. On the runs start with 600 to quickly knock the runs down with a hard block and when you get close to removing the runs grab the 1000.

You can try the razor blade method but unless you have done it DON'T!!!! If you do try wrap the ends of the blade with one round of tape. That way you won't cut past the run.

Since you are using a single stage that isn't metallic it is not hard to fix! Take your time, don't rush it. I still see a bit of orange peel anyway so you will probably cut and buff the whole car anyway.

No one can knock you for trying! Outside of the runs it looks pretty good for a beginner!!! I'll give you two thumbs up for your effort!
 
That kinda looks like a metallic color. I'd avoid single stage metallics like the plague. If you wet sand a run on a single stage metallic it will be very noticeable. That is why god gave us BC/CC, BC goes down dry, and if you hammer the clear anywhere then you are only sanding and buffing the clear coat, not the color and metallics. Which will never alter the appearance of the BC unless you sand all the way through. Single stage is for solid colors and door jambs.
 
Single stage is for solid colors and door jambs.


says who? this is single stage electric blue metallic and turned out sweet. yes it had runs that were repaired and you could never see where, and trust me, these pics were with a POS camera phone and do it no justice.
 

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When they were wet I used to just take masking tape dap the area and hit it again quick, you never new anything happened.
 
You can't expect to be a pro first time out.
that's funny- the first paint job I did was my '66 mustang (corvette yellow)- came out great.
I've never had another turn out as well lol.

...I remember when I was painting my 'stang, a huge fly got in there with me and started buzzing around. I was afraid he was going to land on the car. When he landed on my arm he (and my arm) got a nice thick coat of yellow so that he wouldn't end up on the car:D

When they were wet I used to just take masking tape dap the area and hit it again quick, you never new anything happened.
a buddy of mine was doing an overnight 'hit the guardrail with my trash am and want to fix it before anyone sees it' job to his car. He got a huge run in the door, so he ran it right down the side and razor bladed it off later. Turned out perfect. And matched the rest of the car so well that someone didn't realize it was fresh paint and leaned on it while it was still soft.
 
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