Painter's I need advice!!

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wyoduster

wyoduster

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Weare,New Hampshire
I need advice.. I've never painted a car Tho as a woodworker I've sprayed hundreds of gallons of finish so I'm going to paint my Duster. MY QUESTION: what paint do I use? Urethane,Enamel ,Laquor ? and what primer? do I just scuff the old paint then prime or What?? Looking on line I can buy urethane basecoat (gal) and Clearcoat(gal) +activator for $198. Good deal??? Then what primer or whatever under it?? NEXT QUESTION: Under the hood as you see I've rattle canned that with primer after sandblasting it.What paint under there?high heat ?? or just the same as the outside??
I've got silver POR-15 to coat the trunk and Floorboards. Then I'll spray them .Again should I primer over the POR-15 first before the paint??
Oh by the way its HEMI ORANGE.
Please need and want ALL the advice you can give me on painting as well as where and what to buy.
THANKS UPFRONT!!

duster 043 (Small).jpg


duster 045 (Small).jpg
 
Basically I am an amatuer at painting cars, but this is a little of what I have learned.

The basic process of painting a 30 year old car is:

strip it down to bare metal (unless you have intimate knowledge of what and how much paint is on car!)

seal car with self etching primer ( I like to use PPG epoxy primer, but other types of epoxy and etching primers are fine for this application)

Apply body filler as needed

Apply primer/filler and block sand car ( I like to use a 2K urethane type primer)

Apply a topcoat ( I like to use 2K urethane enamel by Dupont/Nason with the integrated clear)

Color sand and buff if needed

I would paint under hood area of car with same paint as used on outside. I am not so sure i would paint it directly over spray can primer. You may want to seal that stuff with a coat of epoxy primer or 2K urethane before appying the topcoat. Preferrably you would of used the epoxy (self etching )primer on those areas after you had stripped of all of the old paint.

Painting cars with acrylic enamel or acrylic laquer is basically using obsolete materials. The newer single stage urethane enamels are cheaper and easier to use. I still like to use acrylic enamel to paint engines (works better than spray can engine paint!) and acrylic laquer for painting wheels and trim (mostly argent silver and black).

You should do some research about which system you intend to use and stick with one brand (that makes it easier to verify what paints works with what primer and vice versa).


just my $.02

Bob
 
Heres my advice,use all urethanes,GOOD urethanes.the cheap stuff might look good for a little while,but dont last long,because its thinner,has less uv additives.Painters are like mopar guys,mopar or no car?well painters are just as brand loyal,to me,ive used them all,house of kolor,dupont,ppg,martin senour.there are also cheaper grades of all these brands,dont use it,get the good stuff,unless your gonna sale the car within a year or so.if the old paint is good,i dont usually sand it all off,theres nothing that strong today,wear a mask it has lead in it.if the old paint is cracked up,sand the car to bare metal,use etching primer,or epoxy,then urethane on top of that within 15 to 30 mins.use the good primer,dupont,etc,it will sand easier,last longer,etc.then block sand the car down,with 400,spray about 3 coats of base on and 3 to 4 coats of clear.color sand it with 1500,then 2000,buff to perfection.if you cant see your self in the reflection,its not right.any more question?email me, [email protected] good luck!
 
if you plan on painting the engine bay that rattle can primer is going to HAVE to come off. chemical reaction between the different types of paint. your new paint wont stick or will bubble and wrinkle
 
start by striping it an then take it out an have it sandblasted. as far as paint you get what you pay for. i us the white primmer an clearcoat base coat on the paint.
 
I work for a PPG distributer, was a painter in a shop. The less expensive brand, OMNI/Shop Line are good products for the money. Color match for small repairs, fender/door not the best, but for overalls you can't beat the price!!!! I've painted alot of cars, mostly weekend cruise cars and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. 3 have taken trophies @ Chrysler Carlisle.
As for painting over POR 15, they recommend "Tie coat" over it before coating with other primers and topcoats. I'd also recommend using single stage 2k urethane in the engine compartment and underneath for sake of ease...
 
sweatybetty said:
if you plan on painting the engine bay that rattle can primer is going to HAVE to come off. chemical reaction between the different types of paint. your new paint wont stick or will bubble and wrinkle
Click to expand...
I used a high heat primer ... But you still believe it must go?
 
You do not have to strip existing primers as long as you have properly applied them. Seal everything with a sealer, or better yet an epoxy primer reduced 20% to make it a sealer. Just make sure everything is as smooth and finished as possible before spraying the epoxy (its very hard to sand, clogs paper, can only be wet sanded after 3 days), the epoxy should be veiwed as the very last step before painting. FYI, BC/CC (Omni & Matrix are good, cheap brands) is not really that much more expensive than Single Stage Urethane (like Eastwood sells), but the nice thing about SS, once you are done spraying, you are done. BC/CC is really two steps, so you have to paint your car twice. Also, become very familiar with recoat window. Learn it, know it! I personally don't recommend mixing SS and BC/CC. There is no reason, and you will spend more money on materials, besides, CC is much more spill resistant in an engine compartment.

Also, local paint stores have a HUGE markup on paint. 60% or more. Online sources sell the stuff for much cheaper prices, the only bad thing, you cant go look at paint chips in person.
 
flyboy01 said:
You do not have to strip existing primers as long as you have properly applied them. Seal everything with a sealer, or better yet an epoxy primer reduced 20% to make it a sealer. Just make sure everything is as smooth and finished as possible before spraying the epoxy (its very hard to sand, clogs paper, can only be wet sanded after 3 days), the epoxy should be veiwed as the very last step before painting. FYI, BC/CC (Omni & Matrix are good, cheap brands) is not really that much more expensive than Single Stage Urethane (like Eastwood sells), but the nice thing about SS, once you are done spraying, you are done. BC/CC is really two steps, so you have to paint your car twice. Also, become very familiar with recoat window. Learn it, know it! I personally don't recommend mixing SS and BC/CC. There is no reason, and you will spend more money on materials, besides, CC is much more spill resistant in an engine compartment.

Also, local paint stores have a HUGE markup on paint. 60% or more. Online sources sell the stuff for much cheaper prices, the only bad thing, you cant go look at paint chips in person.
Click to expand...
The down side to using epoxy as a sealer is dye back of the top coat because the epoxy has a long full cure time.. As far as CC vs Single Stage, if you are painting a solid color go with single stage. Unless you know what you are doing single stage metallics can be tricky. Door jambs under hood etc alot diffenent than a roof or deck lid. If you use the same brand, the hardeners for the clears and single stage are usually the same. Also isn't clear just single stage without color????? No stain issues there!!!!! Online or paint store you can decide, if you run out or have a problem who are you going to call online?????? and get the advise or product you need that day???????????
 
Wyoduster, check the phone book for a local distributer or online at one of the paint manufacturers,PPG, Dupont etc. They will have local store online. Just a note Hemi Orange is a metallic. The original 69-70 color and the new one on the 06-07 mopars..
 
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