Painting Engine Bay!

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stimpy29 said:
Hey thanks for the detailed reply. What type of paint stripper did you end up using? Was it difficult to remove the paint?
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Any extra strength paint striper will work. I used the Ace hardware type(the cheapest) but there are other brands. Sand blasting does not sound like a bad idea just don't hold it to close. You just want to remove the paint/primer not the metal. LOL!

I had basically two options and it was strip it or sand it. Sanding would have been a task to get it all smooth especially in corner areas. What you are trying to achieve is when you spray the first coat of primer you don't have any rough edges showing. When I thought I was done with stripping and sanding I spray the first coat of primer. When I did that I found places that was not smooth and would have looked horrible if it was painted. So don't be surprised if you have to sand on the places you have sprayed with primer. I used it for a guide to what it was going to look like when it is painted. Any areas that you don't need striped or sanded you have to "feather" it back. This would be the taped off places that you are not going to paint to the places you are.
 
An auto helmet will make a HUGE difference in your welding abilities.
 
They're instant!
They're worth the investment. Mine is a solar powered one, so there's no batteries to change. Makes welding in awkward positions much easier. There's no way I could've welded my floor pans in, the last few days, without one. Hard to flip a regular helmet down when your head is shoved under the dash.... ;-)
 
cuda67bnl said:
They're instant!
They're worth the investment. Mine is a solar powered one, so there's no batteries to change. Makes welding in awkward positions much easier. There's no way I could've welded my floor pans in, the last few days, without one. Hard to flip a regular helmet down when your head is shoved under the dash.... ;-)
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Well I might as well go ahead and get one then because I plan on making my own frame connectors. It might take me about 3 yrs but once I get done I will know how to weld. That's the biggest problem I had was seeing what I was doing until I struck the arc. I would get so mad :angryfir::angry5::angryfir:
 
mullinax95 said:
Finally got it sprayed!

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=283861#post283861
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Wow, that looks fantastic! If mine comes out half as good as that I'll be happy.

I managed to start sand-blasting this weekend. I got about 2/3's through it before the weather started to turn, so the car is back in the garage. I think I have about another 2 or 3 hours before the stripping is done. I was surprised how quickly that process works. There's going to be a few spots that will need some light sanding and smoothing, but if all goes well it should be ready for priming very soon. Thanks for the advice and help so far.
 
stimpy,

Thanks bud!

I knew the sand blasting would be the ticket. Good call!

You should take some pics and put them on this thread or start your own. I would like to see your car as well as progress pictures.
 
Yes, Stimpy, please post some pics on a thread somewhere. I'll be doing the same thing soon, and would like to see your progress and results.
 
I just got done with mine saturday now I get to put it back.

engine bay 015.JPE


engine bay 016.JPE
 
fishman said:
Looking good I know what you are going through. Tom
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I installed the heater blower cover, line lock (4-speed), and voltage regulator. It feels like it took days to do it because I didn't want to scratch it. I need to wet sand the clear and buff it out but really don't know how long I should wait to do it. I have read that it needs to cure in the sun for two days or so but I can't move the car with no motor out of garage. I mean I could roll it out but that wouldn't be to fun. I guess I could wait a little longer.
 
fishman said:
I didnt know that you had to buff the clear
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You don't have to but it does make it look better than it already is.

This will help explain more than I could on here.

http://www.automedia.com/Color-Sanding_and_Buffing/res20030601cs/1

I did a small area where it will be very hard to see after the motor is installed with 1500 grit sand paper and then buff it with Meguirs number 7 by hand not by a buffer just to test the waters. It does make it shine and feels much smoother. It is a step in a positive direction I can tell you that for sure.

A friend of mine did his 71 cuda ...the whole car! I believe he started with 1000 then 1500, then 2000 and got it buffed. It is very shiny and the paint looks deep.
 
mullinax95 said:
stimpy,

Thanks bud!

I knew the sand blasting would be the ticket. Good call!

You should take some pics and put them on this thread or start your own. I would like to see your car as well as progress pictures.
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Will do. I was going to get a shot of it on Sunday, but the weather was so bad I didn't get a chance to work on the car. I should be finishing up on Saturday and ready for primer. I'll take some photos at that point.

Quick question, before priming, is there some type of recommended product or solution to give the bare metal a good cleaning? Obviously I need to get the excess grit and sand down any high spots. Just curious.

Thanks.
 
stimpy29 said:
Will do. I was going to get a shot of it on Sunday, but the weather was so bad I didn't get a chance to work on the car. I should be finishing up on Saturday and ready for primer. I'll take some photos at that point.

Quick question, before priming, is there some type of recommended product or solution to give the bare metal a good cleaning? Obviously I need to get the excess grit and sand down any high spots. Just curious.

Thanks.
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What I used was some kind of metal etching solution. My friend poured some in a jar and gave it to me. I don't know the name of it but it is a green colored liquid. I would wipe it on the metal let it dry for a little while then wipe it off. The metal would be super smooth before I put it on but after wards it had a rough feel to it. You more than likely can Goggle something up that would work or go to your local auto paint supply and they will have it. I think as long as you use exposy primer you should be fine but I did both just to make sure.
 
looks great, i like the idea of making the seams flush, i didnt even think about that. check out my thread i redid my engine bay, lots of work took about 3 months to be compeltly done, that was doing everything after school/work and even working on my school LUNCH BREAKS haha:cheers:
 
Started color sanding today.

I started with 1500 grit sandpaper and have not got done yet. Kept the area wet as I sanded and used cris-cross motions in 4" passes. As I sanded I felt the difference in the areas I have sanded and have not. I would hold the shop light at a angle so I could see the surface good and kept sanding until it was all smooth. I could see the difference and understand why the clear needs to be sanded.

There was a run "sag" in the clear that looked pretty bad so I sanded it with 600 grit right on the sag and then sanded with 1500 in the general area until it was gone. Fixed!


The white stuff is dried up clear residue. You can tell by the pictures that the shine has left the building. I hope I can get back. LOL!

DSC01585.jpg


DSC01583.jpg


DSC01586.jpg
 
mullinax95 said:
What I used was some kind of metal etching solution. My friend poured some in a jar and gave it to me. I don't know the name of it but it is a green colored liquid. I would wipe it on the metal let it dry for a little while then wipe it off. The metal would be super smooth before I put it on but after wards it had a rough feel to it. You more than likely can Goggle something up that would work or go to your local auto paint supply and they will have it. I think as long as you use exposy primer you should be fine but I did both just to make sure.
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Sounds good. I'll talk to the people at the place that is going to supply me with the paints. If all goes well I'm hoping to prime the bay this weekend.
 
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