Painting Fiberglass hood

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74Scooter

74Scooter

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Hi all, have never painted before but I'm going to start baby steps when my fiberglass hood arrives. I'll fit and adjust it first and drill the holes for the hood pins. Planning on hitting it with matte black... I mean.. how badly can I mess that up? :rolleyes:

I have a compressor and am planning on buying a basic gravity primer and paint kit, something along these lines: DeVilbiss 802343 DeVilbiss StartingLine HVLP Gravity Feed Paint and Primer Spray Gun Kits | Summit Racing
If you think there is a better starter kit, pls post up a link.

The hood comes with gray gel-coat finish. I'm thinking sand, seal and shoot. Am I missing anything? Any special considerations working with fiberglass?
 
First thing to do is let it sit in the sun for a few days. Its to make sure the fiberglass is cured. Here is what i do. I block sand it with 180 or 220 clean it then spray some high build primer on it at least 3 coats. Then block it with 400. Clean it then spray your black. They are never straight. The high build primer acts like a sealer unless you break through.
 
WAYNE0 said:
First thing to do is let it sit in the sun for a few days. Its to make sure the fiberglass is cured. Here is what i do. I block sand it with 180 or 220 clean it then spray some high build primer on it at least 3 coats. Then block it with 400. Clean it then spray your black. They are never straight. The high build primer acts like a sealer unless you break through.
Click to expand...
Great advise... any concern with letting it sit in serious sun? I'm at 5k feet and it gets very warm here.
 
74Scooter said:
Hi all, have never painted before but I'm going to start baby steps when my fiberglass hood arrives. I'll fit and adjust it first and drill the holes for the hood pins. Planning on hitting it with matte black... I mean.. how badly can I mess that up? :rolleyes:

I have a compressor and am planning on buying a basic gravity primer and paint kit, something along these lines: DeVilbiss 802343 DeVilbiss StartingLine HVLP Gravity Feed Paint and Primer Spray Gun Kits | Summit Racing
If you think there is a better starter kit, pls post up a link.

The hood comes with gray gel-coat finish. I'm thinking sand, seal and shoot. Am I missing anything? Any special considerations working with fiberglass?
Click to expand...
First, let me say that is a good, solid starter paint gun kit. You can get good results with that. Second, never say, How badly can I mess that up?" LOL That's like saying, "What could possibly go wrong?" Seriously, just take your time. Be careful and don't rush.

WAYNE0 said:
First thing to do is let it sit in the sun for a few days. Its to make sure the fiberglass is cured. Here is what i do. I block sand it with 180 or 220 clean it then spray some high build primer on it at least 3 coats. Then block it with 400. Clean it then spray your black. They are never straight. The high build primer acts like a sealer unless you break through.
Click to expand...
I totally agree. I just don't know if he knows what block sanding is. No offense, @74Scooter, but when someone says they have never painted, I won't assume they know about block sanding.

When I block sand, I use a Dura Block sanding block and dry PSA (sticky back) sandpaper. I agree with the 180 or 220 before the primer on the fiberglass. I usually do 220 followed by 320, but the high build will easily fill 220 sanding scratches. Use a cross hatch pattern when sanding. If you don't know what that is, a quick Google or You Tube search is in order. Then spray the high build primer with a 1.8 or 2.2 tip. I also agree with Wayne0 about blocking with the 400, in that I finish with 400. After spraying the high build primer (any good 2K polyester primer will do), I block it with 320 to get rid of the orange peel, switching to 320 to smooth it out and ending up with 400 dry. Then I wet sand with 320 and 400.
 
WAYNE0 said:
First thing to do is let it sit in the sun for a few days. Its to make sure the fiberglass is cured. Here is what i do. I block sand it with 180 or 220 clean it then spray some high build primer on it at least 3 coats. Then block it with 400. Clean it then spray your black. They are never straight. The high build primer acts like a sealer unless you break through.
Click to expand...

I doubt many manufacturers do an oven post cure temperature stepping process. That toughens the resin and it makes a world of difference in the temperature ranges that the part can handle.
Post curing requires a LONG time in an oven, with temperature stepping going both up and down for specific amounts of time and at specific temperatures FOR THAT SPECIFIC resin.
You should be good though.
 
Sorry never gave that a thought about block sanding. You said it gets really hot then the better off you are. I have had problems with painting fiberglass parts as soon as i get them. Now maybe each company is different. Just make sure you let the primer set long enough to cure. Id let it set over night or if it does get that hot where your at set it out side but be careful to much heat at a long period of time is also bad for the primer & paint. Sorry dont mean to scare ya. We also want pictures lol
 
harrisonm said:
First, let me say that is a good, solid starter paint gun kit. You can get good results with that. Second, never say, How badly can I mess that up?" LOL That's like saying, "What could possibly go wrong?" Seriously, just take your time. Be careful and don't rush.


I totally agree. I just don't know if he knows what block sanding is. No offense, @74Scooter, but when someone says they have never painted, I won't assume they know about block sanding.

When I block sand, I use a Dura Block sanding block and dry PSA (sticky back) sandpaper. I agree with the 180 or 220 before the primer on the fiberglass. I usually do 220 followed by 320, but the high build will easily fill 220 sanding scratches. Use a cross hatch pattern when sanding. If you don't know what that is, a quick Google or You Tube search is in order. Then spray the high build primer with a 1.8 or 2.2 tip. I also agree with Wayne0 about blocking with the 400, in that I finish with 400. After spraying the high build primer (any good 2K polyester primer will do), I block it with 320 to get rid of the orange peel, switching to 320 to smooth it out and ending up with 400 dry. Then I wet sand with 320 and 400.
Click to expand...

Great, I'll go by Summit and pick up that kit. I'll get a block and some sticky back sandpaper too. I figure it's paint... if I dork it up I can sand and try again. Not as difficult as trying to stretch a cable cut too short right? :lol:

On the sanding.. pretty much only done wood before... long ago. I'll check out some utoobe videos.
 
WAYNE0 said:
Sorry never gave that a thought about block sanding. You said it gets really hot then the better off you are. I have had problems with painting fiberglass parts as soon as i get them. Now maybe each company is different. Just make sure you let the primer set long enough to cure. Id let it set over night or if it does get that hot where your at set it out side but be careful to much heat at a long period of time is also bad for the primer & paint. Sorry dont mean to scare ya. We also want pictures lol
Click to expand...

Place I picked up the T/A hood has good rep: Hood, Dodge Challenger, 1970-1974, T/A, bolt on, E Body – AAR Quality Fiberglass The people who have purchased from them I have sen are very happy with the finished products. I'll set it out in the sun a few days after it arrives. Sounds like a good way to ensure the glass is cured and the price is right. I'll post up when it arrives. I plan on doing all the fitment and drilling the holes for the hood pins prior to paint.
 
Open the box and inspect BEFORE you sign the receipt from the driver.
There is a long thread, either here or b-bodys, about a damaged hood from AAR.
 
harrisonm said:
First, let me say that is a good, solid starter paint gun kit. You can get good results with that. Second, never say, How badly can I mess that up?" LOL That's like saying, "What could possibly go wrong?" Seriously, just take your time. Be careful and don't rush.


I totally agree. I just don't know if he knows what block sanding is. No offense, @74Scooter, but when someone says they have never painted, I won't assume they know about block sanding.

When I block sand, I use a Dura Block sanding block and dry PSA (sticky back) sandpaper. I agree with the 180 or 220 before the primer on the fiberglass. I usually do 220 followed by 320, but the high build will easily fill 220 sanding scratches. Use a cross hatch pattern when sanding. If you don't know what that is, a quick Google or You Tube search is in order. Then spray the high build primer with a 1.8 or 2.2 tip. I also agree with Wayne0 about blocking with the 400, in that I finish with 400. After spraying the high build primer (any good 2K polyester primer will do), I block it with 320 to get rid of the orange peel, switching to 320 to smooth it out and ending up with 400 dry. Then I wet sand with 320 and 400.
Click to expand...

How is your paint adhesion with 180 and 220 prior to paint? I never go finer than 80 prior to paint. Whether on glass or steel or primer.
 
Ottmundr said:
How is your paint adhesion with 180 and 220 prior to paint? I never go finer than 80 prior to paint. Whether on glass or steel or primer.
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Before i paint base coat or single stage i always sand with no coarser than 320 800 for clear
 
Ottmundr said:
How is your paint adhesion with 180 and 220 prior to paint? I never go finer than 80 prior to paint. Whether on glass or steel or primer.
Click to expand...
We might have a few misunderstandings. I said that I agreed with @WAYNE0's comment that he sands with 180 or 220 before the primer on the fiberglass, then I added that I usually take it further to 220 and 320. I have never had a problem with high build adhesion on fiberglass sanded with 220 or 320. I am a bit confused where you say, "I never go finer than 80 prior to paint". Surely you don't mean that you sand primer with 80 grit and then paint over that, or that you block sand primer with 80 to smooth it out and look for flaws. Prior to epoxy over bare metal, I sand the bare metal with 80. Prior to paint, my final sanding of primer is 400 wet for non metallic colors and 600 wet for metallic.
 
Hood is on and fitted.. hood latch working nicely, drilling holes for hood pins and hood lip molding trim next.

Then off it comes for sanding and prep. Picked up paint gun and supplies today.

On paint and primer. How much would you guess I need of each? FYI.. I plan to sand and shoot the go-wing to match.

A gallon of high build primer runs about $75. Is this a good fit?
US Chemical Eliminator High-Build Polyester Primer 300.G01

A gallon of matte black runs about $84
Summit Racing™ Hot Rod Flat Paints SUM-UP355G

 
They will cure on their own over time, but I don't think that you want to wait that long, probably a year or even longer. If you are going to set it out in the sun, have it mounted on the car and all points in alignment for height and set as you can.
Fiberglass a memory to a point, you have to help it stay where you want it. Don't just set it out on a pair stands. Mount it on your car and drive it, it will cure.. Use good urethane primer that you can use bondo over , or epoxy resin and micro balloons as a filler. Sand it out and spray 2 or 3 coats of John Deere Blitz

black for your flat black coat. Don't make it a real wet coat it will be shiny. Three light semi dry coats will get you what you want. Dry flat finish that absorbs light, not reflect light. That is what it's for.
Someone will contradict me,, but that's what happens here.
Best of luck. You'll learn.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
They will cure on their own over time, but I don't think that you want to wait that long, probably a year or even longer. If you are going to set it out in the sun, have it mounted on the car and all points in alignment for height and set as you can.
Fiberglass a memory to a point, you have to help it stay where you want it. Don't just set it out on a pair stands. Mount it on your car and drive it, it will cure.. Use good urethane primer that you can use bondo over , or epoxy resin and micro balloons as a filler. Sand it out and spray 2 or 3 coats of John Deere Blitz

black for your flat black coat. Don't make it a real wet coat it will be shiny. Three light semi dry coats will get you what you want. Dry flat finish that absorbs light, not reflect light. That is what it's for.
Someone will contradict me,, but that's what happens here.
Best of luck. You'll learn.
Click to expand...

Hood sat for some time after I received it in a hot garage as I put the top end back on the motor. It is on a fitted, drilling holes for hood pins today.

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CRUZE 418 said:
They will cure on their own over time, but I don't think that you want to wait that long, probably a year or even longer. If you are going to set it out in the sun, have it mounted on the car and all points in alignment for height and set as you can.
Fiberglass a memory to a point, you have to help it stay where you want it. Don't just set it out on a pair stands. Mount it on your car and drive it, it will cure.. Use good urethane primer that you can use bondo over , or epoxy resin and micro balloons as a filler. Sand it out and spray 2 or 3 coats of John Deere Blitz

black for your flat black coat. Don't make it a real wet coat it will be shiny. Three light semi dry coats will get you what you want. Dry flat finish that absorbs light, not reflect light. That is what it's for.
Someone will contradict me,, but that's what happens here.
Best of luck. You'll learn.
Click to expand...
I've heard a lot of good stuff about John Deere blitz black. I purchased a gallon from Amazon and it was about $50 including delivery. I plan on shooting my Scamp with it, doing the whole car. I'm looking for a black satiny finish so I should shoot a couple of wet coats, would that be correct?
 
I know how it shoots, do a test panel, nice wet one, and kinda medium wet dry pass and compare, you should be able to see what I mean in the way the finish looks.
You can buy John Deere Blitz black in aerosol or qts at any John Deere dealer to.
Construction or agriculture.
Both wet or dry finishes will absorb light, but the less shiney the better. Think of why they painted the noses of fighters in WWll flat black.

20151030_002659.jpg
 
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CRUZE 418 said:
I know how it shoots, do a test panel, nice wet one, and kinda medium wet dry pass and compare, you should be able to see what I mean in the way the finish looks.
You can buy John Deere Blitz black in aerosol or qts at any John Deere dealer to.
Construction or agriculture.
Both wet or dry finishes will absorb light, but the less shiney the better. Think of why they painted the noses of fighters in WWll flat black.

View attachment 1715972338
Click to expand...
Sounds good. Appreciate the info. Just about ready to shoot, if the weather would cooperate. We're getting a lot a rain here now. I'm definitely going to do a test panel to see what I have to do to get the sheen I want.
 
^^^ Bought 2 quarts of Deere blitz black, primer and some thinner. Should be nuff for the hood. Will go light coats as you suggest. Got the hood pin holes drilled and pins installed. Drivers side rear came up a hair as I was adjusting the front bumpers.. think I can get it back down by adjusting the hinge. Took it for a shakedown drive... seems fine. Waiting on the new hood lip molding to arrive so I can get it installed.

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2 qts will paint it several times! Did you get lighter hood hinge springs for the fiberglass hood?
 
CRUZE 418 said:
2 qts will paint it several times! Did you get lighter hood hinge springs for the fiberglass hood?
Click to expand...

I'm using Harwood 210's, seems like a reasonable substitute. Had to trim the tips so they rotated properly when the hood was opened and closed. The stock T/A hood ends were offset 90 degrees.

Before
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After
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