Want to start painting my dart. After sanding off paint(not oe paint)will put on epoxy primer. Is it practable to do one fender,hood etc. at a time? I am thinking small batches might not be easy or smart. Never painted before,so this is all new to me. Any thoughts are apricated.
painting one piece at a time?
- Thread starter Roadart
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Dragonsteel
Well-Known Member
Color coat would not be advisable as you can get several different shades of color depending on the temperature/humidity, paint/reducer mix ratio, air pressure settings at the gun and spray pattern used.
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Depends on the color and the timeline.
If you have a solid color- one that doesn’t have any flake or pearl in it- you can buy enough to paint the whole car at once. Your timeline is the shelf life of the paint. If you do that, you can paint one piece at a time and should have a close enough match between the panels to not have obvious discrepancies. But the paint has to be well mixed every time, and the original paint needs to be out of the same batch. You have to keep all the mixing proportions and gun setting the same throughout. You can definitely screw it up, but if you’re careful it can work. It also will depend on the paint and the color, some are easier than others.
If the paint you want has any metallic aspect to it it will have flake in it. The problem with flake is that it will make the same color paint look a different color depending on the amount of flake, the depth at which it’s distributed in the paint, etc, etc. Temperature and air pressure can change the color. And if the paint isn’t perfectly mixed every time you’re done. I have seen paint with metallic flake out of the same can sprayed on different days look like they were almost different colors. Same with pearls. Basically, if your paint has any flake or pearl in it you have to shoot the whole car at once. Otherwise your chances of matching it are pretty slim. I won’t say impossible, but darn close. Easier to screw up than to get right for sure.
If you have a solid color- one that doesn’t have any flake or pearl in it- you can buy enough to paint the whole car at once. Your timeline is the shelf life of the paint. If you do that, you can paint one piece at a time and should have a close enough match between the panels to not have obvious discrepancies. But the paint has to be well mixed every time, and the original paint needs to be out of the same batch. You have to keep all the mixing proportions and gun setting the same throughout. You can definitely screw it up, but if you’re careful it can work. It also will depend on the paint and the color, some are easier than others.
If the paint you want has any metallic aspect to it it will have flake in it. The problem with flake is that it will make the same color paint look a different color depending on the amount of flake, the depth at which it’s distributed in the paint, etc, etc. Temperature and air pressure can change the color. And if the paint isn’t perfectly mixed every time you’re done. I have seen paint with metallic flake out of the same can sprayed on different days look like they were almost different colors. Same with pearls. Basically, if your paint has any flake or pearl in it you have to shoot the whole car at once. Otherwise your chances of matching it are pretty slim. I won’t say impossible, but darn close. Easier to screw up than to get right for sure.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
The only color I might do that with is single stage Black. All from the same gallon, well stirred each use. Thats how I did my Ragtop.Then you have to be careful installing.
Thing is with epoxy primer most have a dwell time to be top coated or they have to be sanded or reshot. If you do epoxy then shoot with finish primer you may be ok. Read your primers information.
From my point of view, it gets finish prepped and coated within hours of coming out of my blast cabinet. Flash rust happens immediately.
Me, I would do the epoxy primer, then apply the high build primer and block. Then when time come, do sealer, then topcoat. Like said, IF just a solid color, no metallic or whatever and IF you have it all mixed enough to do the entire car, and,.. IF you have same humidity and pressure, I say it can work. I much rather shoot the topcoat all at once.
Remember black is totally unforgiving!
Remember black is totally unforgiving!
This is for epoxy [primer ONLY.) Will do high build primer next than base coat. I do not plan on doing top (final) paint. I will have someone experienced do that
Correct. Black only.
Trust me on this one.
Unless you have ability to blend in to doors after all panels back on car.
Trust me on this one.
Unless you have ability to blend in to doors after all panels back on car.
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
Agree totally concerning the topcoat with flake or pearl. Gravity is also a factor. Don't paint a door lying flat on a stand with flake or pearl. It will flow differently than if it were hung or placed in its natural position as fully assembled.
My plan at this time is go with B5 Blue.That was the original color. I want to see the metal to be sure it isn't full of body filler before its get painted. Thanks to all
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
We shot my sons Duster with B5 about a year ago. If you listen to the all the advice above it should turn out fine.
B5 is the best color in Ma's book of colors ever IMHO.
B5 will have to be painted all in one go. It has a fair amount of metallic, which is why it looks so different in pictures and different light conditions. If you do a search on mopar B5 blue you get a bunch of really beautiful cars that all looks like they’re painted different colors. Part of that is the formula for B5 changed a couple times depending on the year. But the other part is the metallic. It’s not a color I’d ever want to match for a repair.
CarfinaticII
Under Construction
Wanted to jump in and ask. When you say 'do sealer' then topcoat...do you need a sealer and what kind would you use? I always thought that the epoxy primer sealed the metal, then high build primer so you can block sand, then you can topcoat over the high build primer. Thanks
I personally make a sealer using the epoxy primer by adding reducer. I imagine using the topcoat over the high build is done by many that way also.
There are several good ways to skin a cat.
I might also recommend Southern Polyurethanes, great products and support.
I am by no means a pro body man but I have personally done 12-15 cars or so. I have used several good bodymen over the last few decades and continue to try to learn for anyone and everyone.
There are several good ways to skin a cat.
I might also recommend Southern Polyurethanes, great products and support.
I am by no means a pro body man but I have personally done 12-15 cars or so. I have used several good bodymen over the last few decades and continue to try to learn for anyone and everyone.
CarfinaticII
Under Construction
Good to know! And yeah I am also learning everything I can. In the process of finishing my mini tubs and while the rear end is out id like to get the underneath done and top coated so for one I can practice (as no one will ever really see it) and two I wont have to take the rear end back out to paint. Thanks for the response!
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Is white the easiest "foolproof" color to paint and match?
It is the most forgiving, but remember there are lots of shades of white! Is it all coming out of the same can (batch)?
Are you trying to paint with a good big compressor or one that the presure comes and goes? Pressure and how you set the gun has a lot to do with the end result.
JL duster looks good,like the flat black hood(had one on my RR back in the day)
ESP47
Well-Known Member
He's just trying to epoxy primer one piece at a time, which is perfectly fine. You can high build and seal one piece at a time as well and it's not going to matter.
People do it with solid base coats all the time with no problem. In fact it may be better to do it that way if you don't have an 80gal compressor with a top notch filtration system. Even with a 60gallon and an average filtration system, you could still potentially overpower your filters with moisture and get it in your paint if you tried painting an entire car at once. It can be a roll of the dice in some cases and an expensive one at that.
People do it with solid base coats all the time with no problem. In fact it may be better to do it that way if you don't have an 80gal compressor with a top notch filtration system. Even with a 60gallon and an average filtration system, you could still potentially overpower your filters with moisture and get it in your paint if you tried painting an entire car at once. It can be a roll of the dice in some cases and an expensive one at that.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Ah just do all the paint at home.
I did this car panel at a time over the course of a year out doors in my back yard gravel with a 1.5 horse Craftsman 45cfm compressor.
Just have to have the right conditions each time.
Haven't even wet sanded it.
ESP47 you got it correct what I want to do. Thanks to all for ideas,and knowledge .
^^ LIke th guy says "he has been painting for years and that helps!!!" There is a reason the pros lay down nicer topcoat than me, even though I have been painting for xxxx years,.. good compressor, guns, technique, spray booth, good water/oil separators, etc!!!
I admit I rarely do bc/cc, but if the paint is metallic, I bet it is hard to get it always identical panel by panel , not shooting it all at once. If all the details remain constant, I say yes it is easly but........
One thing about body/paint work, make a blunder and easy to go back and do it again!!!!
I admit I rarely do bc/cc, but if the paint is metallic, I bet it is hard to get it always identical panel by panel , not shooting it all at once. If all the details remain constant, I say yes it is easly but........
One thing about body/paint work, make a blunder and easy to go back and do it again!!!!
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