Painting the dart

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fredsmedina

fredsmedina

6 Dart 7 MOPAR OR NOCAR
Joined
Aug 29, 2009
Messages
880
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Location
Sacramento / Elk Grove CA
decided that i'm going to go ahead and paint my dart while I already have everything off of the car. not too sure what I want to do now though. right now the entire car is rattle canned black(previous owner)

i like the look of all black, looks pretty mean. so i'm thinking of doing the entire car in a satin black paint that i already have from summit. not sure how that would look though.

i'm not going for a show quality paint job. this is going to be my 1st paintjob and doing it in my garage with the car on jackstands.

looking for a cheap, but quality paint that is going to be easy to spray on for a novice painter any color suggestions? pics? any tips/advice for a beginner painter helps. thanks

planning on getting it painted ASAP in the next few weeks here before the weather gets too cold for painting.
 
I like nasons products. Have seen a couple of cars shot with nason and they look great. No matter what paint you choose just know that no paint can cover bad body work......Body work makes every paint job
 
varlo said:
I like nasons products. Have seen a couple of cars shot with nason and they look great. No matter what paint you choose just know that no paint can cover bad body work......Body work makes every paint job
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alright. thanks. i've never done bodywork, so i'm going for a pretty rough look. thats why i'm just thinking of the most simple paintjob that would hide most of the flaws. not sure what color would do that though
 
(i like the look of all black, looks pretty mean. so i'm thinking of doing the entire car in a satin black paint that i already have from summit. not sure how that would look though.)

I think the satin black would look good.I feel like you do that it would give it the mean,all business look.Thinkin of going black myself.My 2 cents.8)
 
fredsmedina said:
alright. thanks. i've never done bodywork, so i'm going for a pretty rough look. thats why i'm just thinking of the most simple paintjob that would hide most of the flaws. not sure what color would do that though
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If your looking to hide flaws, dark colors will just bring them out.
 
DRENO said:
I think the satin black would look good.I feel like you do that it would give it the mean,all business look.Thinkin of going black myself.My 2 cents.8)
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thanks. i'm hoping so. however it turns out is fine with me. i think it'll look mean though. also adding a 6 pack scoop if i can find one.
dano said:
If your looking to hide flaws, dark colors will just bring them out.
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hmm. well i guess i don't care too much about hiding flaws. i pretty much just want to get paint on the car so that it doesn't rust anymore. because previous owner has had just cheap spraypaint on it for a while now..

i had already thought i read that somewhere that dark colors show all flaws. so thanks for verifying that..
 
Fred,

FYI

No matter what paint technology, paint brand, location, or application process you intend to use I strongly suggest you do the following:

(A) ensure the "spray booth" is well light and well ventilated (with air filtration) , keep the floor wet but not too wet as to splash up on the job when you are moving around the area. The ideal paint room ambient temperature should be approx. 75 degrees F with about 30% to 40 % R.H. And another thing; the cleaner the environment the cleaner the paint job.

(B) make sure your compressor will comfortably handle the CFM required to apply the paint consistantly without crapping out, a decent spray gun is essential, 50 ft. of air hose min. is a must, oil and water traps on the compressor are also must.

(B) make sure you have the proper paint mask, preferably a fresh air mask or hood but a good charcoal mask will be better that a dust mask. Remember 2K paint contains isocyanates which are very bad for people. (I know first hand) I also reccomend you wear a disposable paint suit because you stay cleaner and so does the car.

(C) if you are spraying paint in your garage, don't hang around between coats, you're asking for trouble. Keep the exhaust fan running but stay out of the area until the previous coat flashes off.

(D) If you're painting in close proximately to neighbors I'd forwarn them before you start to spray anything. You may get visitors that don't have a sense of humor.

(E) assuming you still plan to paint in your garage, don't spray your car on a windy day. Check out the local U-Do-it places for a real paint booth.

(F) clean , clean, clean, and clean some more + tack rags are your best friend, don't spare the tack rags before you paint.


And yes, darker colors will highlight imperfections in the painting surface - whites, bright yellows, silvers, or golds, are your best bet for a "less than perfect surface prep".

You had stated this was your first "paint job". I suggest you buy a book on refinishing or take classes at the local community college, consult with a painter in your area before you take on a very difficult task. I'd also suggest you practice on some scrap panels before you attempt a complete car.

I hope you find this information of some benefit.

Good Luck with your project. You will always remember your first complete paint job, make it a good memory.

If you have any questions I would be glad to answer them.


sscuda


FYI-I'm not an expert spray painter but quite a few years ago I taught (for several years) spray painting /troubleshooting techniques to many spray painting instructors at the OEM and Tier 1 levels (US & CDN), Those instructors then taught the spray painting "experts" how to actually apply the paints/primers and get them on right side up.
 
Thank you SSCUDA! i've done ALOT of reading on painting. and learned alot from books already. i can't wait til i do my first paint job.!
will keep all of your tips in mind as i'm prepping for paint
 
Summit paint lays down real nice! Ask me how i know!8)

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EvilScamp said:
Summit paint lays down real nice! Ask me how i know!8)
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i actually have a gallon of that sour apple green metallic paint. i'm not too sure about spraying the dart with it though. looks a little "flashy" for my dart. My charger on the other hand is gonna be the one with the sour apple green metallic and a new vinyl top!

i want a very simple paint job for the dart. 8)

thats an amazing job that you did there on that paint though!:cheers: i've been checking out your thread about all the work you've put into it..
 
I Think I've decided on a metallic gloss silver with a satin (flat)black hood. I figure the silver will look great and also it won't necessarily show the flaws that might be there in the bodywork.. Any other advice from people about bodywork or painting?

here are the 2 colors that I chose

gloss silver metallic (NO CC).jpg


satin hot rod black (NO CC).jpg
 
i like ppg omni paint. idk the price comparison but thats what i have used and like it. for the body work keep the body filler(bondo) thin. it is a good product when used right and it will hold up and look good. also be sure to block it all good and straight. a flat black will look killer if it has good body work under it that is the biggest thing to a good paint job. also mask good. it will keep dirt and crap outta the paint and keep paint outta the spots its not supposed to be. good luck and put up some pics when its done lol
 
tyler_s18 said:
i like ppg omni paint. idk the price comparison but thats what i have used and like it. for the body work keep the body filler(bondo) thin. it is a good product when used right and it will hold up and look good. also be sure to block it all good and straight. a flat black will look killer if it has good body work under it that is the biggest thing to a good paint job. also mask good. it will keep dirt and crap outta the paint and keep paint outta the spots its not supposed to be. good luck and put up some pics when its done lol
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thanks. definitely will do. whats the "right way" to use bondo?

i have no experience using bondo(or any body fillers) before..

my panels are all aligned correctly right now, and there are only a few parts from what I can tel right now that will need to be smoothed out. I think it will be easier to tell all of the bodywork that I need to do once I shoot it with an epoxy primer.

I should throw on primer before any bodywork right?
 
body filler is not supposed to go on to thick. i think its either 1/8th of an inch or 1/4 but i am thinkin 1/8th so get the metal up close then put it on. squeeze it into all the lil holes so it sticks good and dosent trap any moisture in. also sand it down good in between layers. it needs to go on bare metal only not on top of paint. glazing putty can go on top of paint but it has to be thinner then bondo. thats all i can think of for now lol. we just spent 3 weeks on this in school so i am trying to refresh myself to lol. i know res1vw21 (ross a member on here) knows a lot about body work to. maby he will chime in on what im forgetting. o and dont use any filler on the windshield seat area. the glue for the windshield wont stick right to it and the filler wont stick strong enough to the metal to keep you in the car in a wreck lol
 
fredsmedina said:
thanks. definitely will do. whats the "right way" to use bondo?

i have no experience using bondo(or any body fillers) before..

my panels are all aligned correctly right now, and there are only a few parts from what I can tel right now that will need to be smoothed out. I think it will be easier to tell all of the bodywork that I need to do once I shoot it with an epoxy primer.

I should throw on primer before any bodywork right?
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it is easier to see low and high spots with a uniform color so you can shoot primer first but dont be scared to sand it off. good choice on epoxy to. it has more corrosion (rust) protection then a etch primer and can go on top of body filler
 
tyler_s18 said:
it is easier to see low and high spots with a uniform color so you can shoot primer first but dont be scared to sand it off. good choice on epoxy to. it has more corrosion (rust) protection then a etch primer and can go on top of body filler
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thanks for both tips.. wish I had time to take body classes! my schedule is packed though going to college for engineering..

at this point in my life, bodywork is more practical for me to be learning. lol

and yes. I've definitely read the benefits of using an epoxy primer! so hopefully i'll be shooting that onto the dart in the next week here
 
Basically you don't want your bondo to be more then an 1/8th in thick. Metal work is fairly easy when you understand how the metal moves but can be very frustrating at first. I recommend you do some reading on metal work first them practice on some scarp parts to understand how it moves/ reacts.

Mudd (aka bondo) is not a bad thing but always remember to keep it thin and give it something to grab on to, scuff it up really well (40 grit) and apply thin coats over the large area then sand with 80 then another thin coat to smooth everything then 180 till it's smooth.

Take your time read some books and you should be fine, sscuda is on the mark about the paint booth stuff.

I have never tried the summit paint but follow the directions and remember it's ok to mess up because thats how you learn, every paint job I do I get better and better.
 
thanks alot res1vw21! i have done alot of reading. but i know theres some stuff that you just can't learn from books. I bought a spare hood for my dart for $40 that i'm going to practice painting and stuff on.

And the way I look at it, if the paint job turns out that bad, its just paint! I can just take it off and start over. I know its easier said than done to do that. but i'm not too worried. However it turns out, it'll be better than what it is right now thats for sure
 
a hood will be hard to do much body work with. the metal starts oil canning quick so you can learn a lot from it lol. dont be scared to ask us all any questions. its really not very hard just takes patience and some thinking and some knowledge. good luck
 
tyler_s18 said:
a hood will be hard to do much body work with. the metal starts oil canning quick so you can learn a lot from it lol. dont be scared to ask us all any questions. its really not very hard just takes patience and some thinking and some knowledge. good luck
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whats oil canning?
 
like flimsy. if you push on your quarter panel it should give a little but not a whole bunch. if you over work it or stretch the metal it can move a lot with little pressure or 'pop' in. that is called oil canning.
 
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