BoredandStroked
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to know has anyone ever tried a Panhard bar or a Watts link on their leaf spring A-body here for some better handling? Pics if you got one of them would be really nice!
Panhard bar or Watts Link install?
- Thread starter BoredandStroked
- Start date
-
4mulaSvaliant
Well-Known Member
Hey man whats up.
After doing a little research I think I may put a watts setup on my valiant. It seems better since it will keep the lateral forces evenly ditributed to both sides of the axel.
However if you build a Panhard setup to go to the midddle of the diff. then I think it will deliver the same results. (Seems alot of panhard pars go from the frame on one side to the axel on the opposite side.)
XV Engineering has great susp. pics They employed the bar from the right frame rail to the center of the diff. This could be better than gaining all the weight created by the many parts needed for the watts system. Also the watts link is all unsprung weight! Hmm maybe Ill be going with the way XV hsa done it. later man and hey check out XV Engineering they have excellent pics and Ideas for B/E bodies that I have already started to use on my A body.
After doing a little research I think I may put a watts setup on my valiant. It seems better since it will keep the lateral forces evenly ditributed to both sides of the axel.
However if you build a Panhard setup to go to the midddle of the diff. then I think it will deliver the same results. (Seems alot of panhard pars go from the frame on one side to the axel on the opposite side.)
XV Engineering has great susp. pics They employed the bar from the right frame rail to the center of the diff. This could be better than gaining all the weight created by the many parts needed for the watts system. Also the watts link is all unsprung weight! Hmm maybe Ill be going with the way XV hsa done it. later man and hey check out XV Engineering they have excellent pics and Ideas for B/E bodies that I have already started to use on my A body.
the leafs center the housing.... i dont think you really need it - i have polyu bushings and a sway bar and the rear dont move that much...
a pan hard bad has more movement due to the rod's arch along its travel, it would push the rear to one side more then just leaf springs .....
a pan hard bad has more movement due to the rod's arch along its travel, it would push the rear to one side more then just leaf springs .....
A
Ace
Guest
These little leaf spring cars with heavy noses due to the V8s love rear sway bars. I agree with DJVCUDA - inappropriate for this chassis.
Mine drove like a whole different car after installing new sway bars front and rear. You can even frame hang it (a-la AAR Cuda) to reduce unsprung weight if you are clever about it:
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_23.jpg
Mine drove like a whole different car after installing new sway bars front and rear. You can even frame hang it (a-la AAR Cuda) to reduce unsprung weight if you are clever about it:
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_23.jpg
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
I have built and raced road race and circle track cars and found that puting a panhard bar on a leaf spring car did not have any appreciable difference given we I using poly bushings. This is with slicks, if it is a street car with street tires the tires would be the weak link as far as handling. If you do use a panhard bar it is best to go all the way over to the other side of the rearend from the frame to make it as long as possible. If the bar is short as the suspension moves up and down the bar could cause binding being the angle changes will be greater with a short bar as opposed to a long bar.
Chuck
Chuck
-
