passion 833 or rebuild locally ?

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purplescamper

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i debating which route to go.. do i take my 833 to a trans shop to be rebuilt locally or would i be better off buying a rebuilt trans from passion.
 
Jamie Passon (note the spelling) knows his stuff. Mine came out great.
 
Jamie is that not far away from you. Give him a call. I'd rather see you have Jamie rebuild it other than a "shop"
 
Or rebuild it yourself, they are really quite easy to do, the factory service manual has great step by step instructions, put in a bearing kit and new synchro rings and you are set and save a fair chunk of money....
 

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I've known Jamie for a lot of years. Stand up guy and knows his stuff. Can't go wrong with one of their 4-spds.
 
d55dave, what's with that shifter? Did you install the grease zirc or did it come that way? I love the linkage!
 
A good shop like Jamie, at Passon Performance or Wayne at Brewer's Performance, along with any local builder who has gone through the Mopar New Process is likely going to get you into a good rebuild. They are very simple to build, as stated above. I'm piecing mine together from parts. That heim joint linkage above with the serviceable shifter is leaps and bounds better than the stock stuff and will give you a great, positive shift. I like that idea.
 
I just rebuilt mine, simple and I literally used the online Mopar Muscle article and pictures. A bearing puller / press is really the only special tooling required. You can buy the rebuild pieces directly from either Passon, or Brewers, both are good to deal with. Good luck
 
if you can't do it yourself i would go with a passon unit way before i would trust a trans shop to do it. looks like you're only about 50 miles from his place
 
DaveBonds said:
A good shop like Jamie, at Passon Performance or Wayne at Brewer's Performance, along with any local builder who has gone through the Mopar New Process is likely going to get you into a good rebuild. They are very simple to build, as stated above. I'm piecing mine together from parts. That heim joint linkage above with the serviceable shifter is leaps and bounds better than the stock stuff and will give you a great, positive shift. I like that idea.
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i wonder where he got setup from ...looks good
 
d55dave said:
Or rebuild it yourself, they are really quite easy to do, the factory service manual has great step by step instructions, put in a bearing kit and new synchro rings and you are set and save a fair chunk of money....
Click to expand...



where did you get that linkage from...looks good
 
I didn't want to hijack the thread. I did send a PM to you DaveBonds, but my internet is crap right now and I don't know if it went through.

The shifter handle is a factory circa 1968 console A body piece, the shifter mechanism is from a mid 70's truck. Mid 70's and early 80's trucks and vans that had the overdrive (aluminum) 4 speed use the Hurst competition plus shift mechanism as in my pic, complete with the grease fitting, but without the stops (I didn't have stops on my set up). This mechanism is actually a direct replacement for A body hurst shifters and uses the same shift levers as an A body. The rods I made - drilled and tapped the ends and used helicopter rod end bearings. I did have to put a bend in the inboard rod to clear the crossmember. I used a stock A body reverse rod (not too worried about powershifting reverse, LOL). Also used an A body shifter mount (the part that bolts to the shift mechanism and the tail shaft housing) as the truck / van piece is completely different. The setup worked awesome, I seldom missed a shift and it was nice and precise.

I rebuilt the 4 speed myself, they are easy to do. There is no magic inside - just bearings and gears.
 
Didn't get your PM, but that looks like a really basic fab. I've driven 3 4 speed cars that I put together with my shop over the last two years with stock replacement stuff. Perfectly adjusted and centered, we'd still have issues with missing 3rd once in a while, even when tightened up and dropping the shift stop a bit.

We measured play on new bushings and hard parts and figured in that under a 1/4 pass, it was enough to miss once in a while.

I've got the same comp shifter unit but it has stops, without zirc. I'm thinking I should put one in.

Your linkage mod would be amazing for anyone looking for a really positive shift and looks like you could round up heim joints from Speedway online and do some basic fabrication to come up with it all.

I'd suggest this for your build, over any reproduction original style stuff, purplescamper.

I may make a reverse, seeing as how I don't have one... then I CAN power shift into reverse, just like Marty McFly!
 
I'm planning on doing a pistol grip as well. Is your car a console or floor? I'm wondering if the pistol grip lever clears a bench. The A body shifters come forward, then backward and kick toward the center of the tunnel more, so when you're on the left side of the shift, it doesn't come too close to your knee.

Another thing that changes with those shifters is the boot. The A body uses an oval boot and all Pistol Grip profile levers are rectangular, where all rectangular profile boots are rectangular on the outside and don't match the floor.
 
DaveBonds said:
I'm planning on doing a pistol grip as well. Is your car a console or floor? I'm wondering if the pistol grip lever clears a bench. The A body shifters come forward, then backward and kick toward the center of the tunnel more, so when you're on the left side of the shift, it doesn't come too close to your knee.

Another thing that changes with those shifters is the boot. The A body uses an oval boot and all Pistol Grip profile levers are rectangular, where all rectangular profile boots are rectangular on the outside and don't match the floor.
Click to expand...

no console just floor, i got the b body shifter made for a bench seat, which is what i got in my car
 
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