Patch panel welding - body guys

-
ragtopfury

ragtopfury

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
4,339
Reaction score
5,448
Location
Manchester, MD
Not a pro by any means .... that being said, on my 05 Ram bed sides, am I better off doing them as a rectangle as the patch comes, should I cut the corners at approximately 45* and not have them come to a right angle? Does it matter? And yes, I have the new outer wheelhouse as well.

20200724_183550.jpg
 
I would do it with the 45° angles like you have drawn.
Damn, my 05 is just starting to bubble on one side. They all do it, its the foam thats in there. Just make sure you go high enough to get back to perfectly clean metal but no more than necessary.
Where did you get replacement panels? New or junkyard?
I found these...
2002-09 DODGE RAM REAR UPPER WHEELARCH & OUTER WHEELHOUSE SET (4 piece set)
 
Last edited:
Cut it square and flange the new piece with a flange tool. You want to tuck the new piece behind the original panel. The 1st reason is it is easier to flange the corners to the corner. The 2nd reason is? After completing the welds you can spray a rust paint such as "Chassis Saver" first choice "POR15" second choice. or "Rustolem" 3rd. Flanging the new part and tucking it behind the the original lets the material gravity flow behind the seam and seal it. I have learned over doing many over time that if you don't seal that seam completely it will rust twice as fast. I do this with all patch and quarters I install.

I did a patch on one side of this almost rust free Duster because it had a very small hole. I cut the complete bottom off and reversed flanged it because I would be able to seal it and let it gravity fill. If you look close you may be able to see it in this picture about 1 inch below the marker. The seam goes the complete length. I left it a little lower then the trunk extension to hide the seam. This car after I filled the quarters and the rockers is almost guaranteed to never rust again.

It is funny you started this thread because I am about to do the same thing to my 05. These trucks rust because the quarters are foam glued to the wheel house and they hold moisture. I have two 05's and my single wheel is on its second rust free bed. This time I am fixing it right. Original rust free beds will rust. Ask me how I know. I will pinpoint spray a rust paint and load it full through the taillight opening until it runs out the bottom

DSCN1000.JPG


Picture 160.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've got to do both sides of my wife's Dakota bed. I have been planning to use panel bond adhesive instead of welding. It's not a structural area, so I'm hoping the adhesive will help keep the rust from coming back.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Cut it square and flange the new piece with a flange tool. You want to tuck the new piece behind the original panel. The 1st reason is it is easier to flange the corners to the corner. The 2nd reason is? After completing the welds you can spray a rust paint such as "Chassis Saver" first choice "POR15" second choice. or "Rustolem" 3rd. Flanging the new part and tucking it behind the the original lets the material gravity flow behind the seam and seal it. I have learned over doing many over time that if you don't seal that seam completely it will rust twice as fast. I do this with all patch and quarters I install.

I did a patch on one side of this almost rust free Duster because it had a very small hole. I cut the complete bottom off and reversed flanged it because I would be able to seal it and let it gravity fill. If you look close you may be able to see it in this picture about 1 inch below the marker. The seam goes the complete length. I left it a little lower then the trunk extension to hide the seam. This car after I filled the quarters and the rockers is almost guaranteed to never rust again.

It is funny you started this thread because I am about to do the same thing to my 05. These trucks rust because the quarters are foam glued to the wheel house and they hold moisture. I have two 05's and my single wheel is on its second rust free bed. This time I am fixing it right. Original rust free beds will rust. Ask me how I know. I will pinpoint spray a rust paint and load it full through the taillight opening until it runs out the bottom

View attachment 1715566940

View attachment 1715566942
Click to expand...
Is the wheel house dissolved as well? If so, you will have to patch that as well.
 
Mike - I don't recall off the top of my head. My kids gave the 4 piece set to me for Christmas. But my panels are not coated and seem to be hand formed, while the new wheelhouse is stamped and coated.

Oldman - I guess I could do it that way if I did the patch panel 1st and then put the wheelhouse in, but I don't know if I will be able to finagle it in behind the bedside after the fact.

I had figured spraying the inside with weld thru primer or spray cold galvanizing before and after welding the new pieces in, and then rubberized undercoating the best I can. Was also going to flange the original so the seam is upside-down, not allowing wetness to collect in it?
 
I should add cut it square across the top and angle the complete sides so you can slip it behind. I like the Ideal of the panel bond. But I believe that foam that started the rust in the first place was some sort of panel bond . For panel bond to work it must be bare metal. I just don't trust panel bond that is open to the elements as these bed sides are from the rear.
 
ragtopfury said:
Mike - I don't recall off the top of my head. My kids gave the 4 piece set to me for Christmas. But my panels are not coated and seem to be hand formed, while the new wheelhouse is stamped and coated.

Oldman - I guess I could do it that way if I did the patch panel 1st and then put the wheelhouse in, but I don't know if I will be able to finagle it in behind the bedside after the fact.

I had figured spraying the inside with weld thru primer or spray cold galvanizing before and after welding the new pieces in, and then rubberized undercoating the best I can. Was also going to flange the original so the seam is upside-down, not allowing wetness to collect in it?
Click to expand...

That weldable primer is a waste of money. Being able to let the seam gravity fill is the best way. That flange tool is cheap at Harbor freight. You can also use the punch on the opposite end to make holes in the original panel to screw it on before welding then remove the screws and plug weld after the panel is welded solid. Then plug weld the holes . Always make sure you first coat of filler is a water proof Dura-Glass or like. I have done a lot of rust and sheet metal work in my days. Early on in life I had jobs come back to redo after years. I saw what went wrong. My son is the mechanic and Machinist. I have always done bodies even complet shells. This is me in the 80's

100.jpg
 
Better off to drive to Texas and buy a used bed, than mess with that rust..
 
Square cuts in metal can lead to fatigue at the corners over time, so think about rounding the corners if you want it to last longer.
 
A used bed will rot out. The foam they put in there holds water. Unfortunately there is no way to get in there and remove it without removing the whole panel.
I agree with oldman, I always use a skim of short strand first and sometimes follow up with USC all metal or evercoat metal-2-metal. This will waterproof the seam. If you can get to the back side a bead of seam sealer is advised.
 
Great advice!
Never thought about reversing the flange but it makes sense.
With my patches,i will spray rust check rust convertor in then finish as needed.
 
I'll be doing mine soon on my 05 2500. I will be cutting out the entire square as it comes. It will easier to bondo when all done.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
I would do it with the 45° angles like you have drawn.
Damn, my 05 is just starting to bubble on one side. They all do it, its the foam thats in there.
Click to expand...
No, they don't.
I just turned 350,000 miles on my 2007.

2007 Ram 1.jpg
 
Bring that puppy to the East Coast salt/snow winters, Kern Dog.....lol. since the right side is worse, and I don't see that side as often, I decided to do one 45-is and one 90 to see which I like better.
20200801_145645.jpg
20200801_175738.jpg
 
You west coast guys have it made. My 05 has 80k on it and its rusting out. Bottom of the truck (frame, exhaust etc) is getting bad. Need to get it on the lift and do some preventative.
 
Mark....are the holes showing on the new wheel house open? If so, that might be where all the moisture that is getting between the panels is coming from. I've never looked up in there on my 2500 because it had the plastic fender liners from the factory. Guess I'd better take em off and have a look see! :eek:
 
I'm never happy with rattle can primer, makes it loom wavy, but it's only temporary until I get the other side done and prep the whole bed for paint. It is pretty damn straight. I have 2 small low spots that I'll address when I do the other side. And I'm not showing you my welding skills, because I am pretty good with the angle grinder..LOL

20200805_183517.jpg

.
 
You better back under the Sunnybrook and set it down on the hitch to see if your bondo busts before you paint it! That would be MY luck....lol. Looks great so far!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top