Patriot VS TTI VS Dougs

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72moparswinger

72moparswinger

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Hey guys I know you get this a lot! but I was using the search and I was reading up on the TTI's and they sound a bit difficult to install? requiring mini starters or have to modify the linkage by cutting it and reshaping a bracket near the collector and taking the power steering completely out? My car has power steering unfortunately but I do like having it.
Now for the patriots, do those require pulling the power steering box and shaft out to fit them in and do those go under the center link? Same questions with dougs headers. I know this is a tight fit no matter what and I am asking for problems and mods but just looking for the least mods needed to fit that driver side in there. You guys make it sound easy to get them in but this is my first real modified Muscle car and want to make it what my dreams are. I will spend the extra money for high dollar headers, My budget is tight and never had headers on a car and gotta try everything once in your life right?

On a side not my car has about 1.5in space between my bump stomps with taller tires in the back so its sitting in a raked position, making a possible problem with full long tubes and ground clearance and my car has no motor in it as of right now, not sure if that makes a difference on installing it with the headers?

Thanks

Alex
 
I have summits.They are patrots.Tough to install.But well worth the $219 I gave for them.I don't have power steering.But a good fit.Ceramic coated. Also TTIs should never be mentioned in budget build thread,Kevin.
 
I agree TTI are not a "budget build" item. They do hold up and are real well built. think long term investment. you don't want to disassemble your suspension to change or repair your headers anymore than you have to. LOL. I don't have experience with the others.
 
Never pulled a PS box when installing tti or Dougs. Someone is feeding a line to you.

The hooker/summit/patriot/hedman are a PIA to install with the centerlink passing through headers.

Install a ministarter, you'll be happy you did! Junkyard specials is all I've ever run. Buy them on 1/2 off days at pick and pulls, etc.
 
I have been thinking about the TTi shorts for quick R&R of engines, trans etc.
 
Thanks for all the input, I saw the the TTI's don't run through the center link which I like, I was looking at some pictures with TTi's and it was tight with the brake line distribution block, would that cause any boiling to the brake fluid? Im all in for paying extra for the best to fit right, I will have new motor mounts from schumaucher so the motor will sit perfect, guess Ill look for a used mini starter. Since its friday ill call TTI on monday. I was just looking into the patriots cause my exhaust shop says they install mostly that brand and like them. ill be installing the headers of which ever brand I get and take them the car to fit my current pipes up with new flanges to fit the collectors with new mufflers.

Assuming dougs does not pass through the center link?
 
I have TTIs in my 69 Barracuda with a 360, and power steering and no fitment issues. I had the stock huge starter but changed it to a mini starter when I just did the tranny (got a mini-starter with a 440 I bought that will be going in sometime in the future)
I like the way the TTIs fit, pretty easy to put in, and GREAT quality compared to the cheaper low hanging types (had 2 or 3 sets of the junk ones on in the past 15 yrs but kept going back to manifolds.. )
 
I just installed a set of Doug's on the 340 in my '74 Duster. Wow. Talk about a shoehorn fit. Now, granted, I have a Milodon road race pan and a 4 speed, but its tight. I went with Doug's because like the TTI's they do not pass under the center link, and they're good for about another 1/2" of ground clearance vs the TTI's.

I basically followed all the install instructions, I had to drop my center link, disconnect the steering coupler, drop the starter and raise the engine about 2" off the mounts. I suspect it was because of the road race pan, but I also dropped my steering box (manual). Once that was all done, the headers almost went in. Driver's side was ok, on the passenger side I also had to pull the rear exhaust stud and replace it with a bolt. That took care of putting the headers on. On the driver's side the steering box and starter have to go back in before you fully install the header.

I reworked the Z-bar, but that isn't that hard. It also has to be done like this for the TTI's. The arm that goes to the clutch fork just gets moved to the very end of the Z-bar and reversed so the stud for the clutch adjuster is on the inside. Then welded it back on. Reassembling is bit of a trick, that arm on the Z-bar travels in about a 1/2" wide space between the header and the starer. Might be less than that...

So, install was a PITA. But, the headers are about as tucked up under the car as they can be. And I didn't have to dimple anything, even with the Milodon pan, 1.12" torsion bars, and 4 speed linkage.
 

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Thank you for all the helpful information, highly appreciated! I'm pretty much sold on the fact that they may cost more but are totally worth it because in my city the roads are crap and I like that they have a bit more ground clearance
 
Ok, I'm curious. I am not an expert here, but don't TTI's have the tube for #7 cut out and a slip tube used? If that is the case, why couldn't something like cutting your header, (#7 tube) and making a fabricated slip tube of your own? Crazy I know.
 
Just got this from TTI site. The #7 tube is cut, so there is no need to remove any suspension parts for installation.


67-76 A-body applications
LH: Drivers-side
38" width x 15.5" tall
No need to remove your torsion bar!
The #7 tube is designed to be removed
to slip around the torsion bar.


That's what I was asking about.​
 
No harm, no foul. Alls good here. Everyone wants knowledge, that's all that matters.
 
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...g_tti_exhaust_system_and_headers/viewall.html

I'm thinking I'll go with the short headers so I won't have any doubt about running a stock starter.
And what I'm also thinking is that if I go with a complete TTI system I know the exhaust will mate up to the headers.
Is this an issue with the TTI exhaust is you use someone else's headers to save a few buck?
I just wish stainless was an option.
I want no maintenance, not low maintenance.
 
I just installed a Summit 2.5" exhaust system on my Doug's headers. Quite possibly the easiest exhaust install I've ever done. I used the Doug's header flanges, and the rest of the Summit system. I didn't have to bend anything, just had to trim a few inches from the over-axle pipes and the ones leading into the mufflers. The entire install took less than 2 hours, and everything lined up evenly when I was done. That included tack welding the "extra" joints, as there are 4 sections per side. I'll weld those up after I decide if I like the Summit mufflers, if not they're coming off anyway so I can do the welding then. Initially I wasn't excited about the extra joints, but they allowed my to adjust the pipes so everything was tucked right up against the floor. Definitely impressed, especially for the money.
 
Louie70Dart said:
Ok, I'm curious. I am not an expert here, but don't TTI's have the tube for #7 cut out and a slip tube used? If that is the case, why couldn't something like cutting your header, (#7 tube) and making a fabricated slip tube of your own? Crazy I know.
Click to expand...
I'll try again. Has ANYONE, and I mean ANYONE ever tried this??
 
WHY.. if it's designed to go in without cutting a tube, why complicate things unless you are building a set of headers.
 
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