pcv valve port

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I you drive it on the street, yes. It'll help keep the blow-by gasses from building up and has no real effect on HP. It also helps keep condensation from building up inside the engine.
 
Baffles are the best way to keep any oil splash out of the PCV system, but these work too.

mor-68775.jpg
 
I myself run just 2 breathers. A pcv is more or less an emissions piece.
 
so if i dont use a pcv valve then can i just plug the pcv port on the carb?
if i do use a pcv valve can i just get the breathers with the pcv port?

i already have M/T valve covers and 2 holes have baffles and 1 hole doesnt have a valve....so im just trying to figure out what to put where
 
Either way. When I did run a PCV, I ran just the regular PCV on one valve cover, and a regular breather on the other valve cover. Now I have 2 K&N breathers.
 
redfastback said:
I myself run just 2 breathers. A pcv is more or less an emissions piece.
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That will work, but in my experience in wetter climates I've seen milky deposits under the VC's on daily drivers, including my own driver back in Chi-town. Just a "in my experience" thought. The PCV shuts down in WOT conditions too. :)
 
spudsterier said:
so if i dont use a pcv valve then can i just plug the pcv port on the carb?

Yes.

if i do use a pcv valve can i just get the breathers with the pcv port?

?

i already have M/T valve covers and 2 holes have baffles and 1 hole doesnt have a valve....so im just trying to figure out what to put where
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The hole without the baffle should be for the oil fill cap and should have two notches in it. The other two will be for either two breathers or a breather and a pcv valve. My Moroso covers have a hole in each cover. The one on the left front is for a breather that I can pop out and use for an oil fill. The right rear I use the rubber grommet baffle and the PCV valve.
 
ramcharger said:
Baffles are the best way to keep any oil splash out of the PCV system, but these work too.
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Hey! Where did you get those? I had to fab baffles for my MT covers
and then the rockers hit them due to the lift so now they are bent
and pretty fugly but I still suck some oil.

i would run a valve no matter what, they do what they are supposed to.
 
ramcharger said:
The hole without the baffle should be for the oil fill cap and should have two notches in it. The other two will be for either two breathers or a breather and a pcv valve. My Moroso covers have a hole in each cover. The one on the left front is for a breather that I can pop out and use for an oil fill. The right rear I use the rubber grommet baffle and the PCV valve.
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the passenger valve cover has a 1.5" hole in the front with a baffle
the drivers side has a 1.25" baffled hole in the front and a 1.5" non-baffeled hole in the back.... the back hole feels like it used to have the notches in it for the oil cap but it seems like they were smoothed out so it can fit a push in style oil cap with a grommet.

i think i will just put a breather on the passenger side, standard pcv valve on the drivers front, and a puch in oil cap on the drivers rear.

thanks guys
 
ramcharger said:
I you drive it on the street, yes. It'll help keep the blow-by gasses from building up and has no real effect on HP. It also helps keep condensation from building up inside the engine.
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I say just run one, its not going to have any effect on your performance. I had first hand experience with the condensation issue on my old truck. when I bought it had no pcv and one day noticed a coffee colored buildup under the valve cover. put on a pcv and no more issues. I also hear it helps the oil not break down as fast since you are evacuating the blow-by.
 
How about a draft tube, like was used on production cars before PCV's? Never tried it, but would like to.
 
most modern carbs are setup to run a pcv valve.without it you'll be needing to rejet carb jmo
 
I personally have never had any buildup on my valve covers.

Hey Waggin, can you explain how a NOT running a PCV makes it run richer?? I am not getting it..
 
redfastback said:
I personally have never had any buildup on my valve covers.

Yeah not usually a problem where its hot and dry most of the year. mostly happens where its costantly cold and humid. you got all the hot gases pumping up to the covers and the outside air is cold. next thing you know your freaking out thinking you have a blown head gasket but the dipstick looks clean.
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camd64 said:
redfastback said:
I personally have never had any buildup on my valve covers.
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Yeah not usually a problem where its hot and dry most of the year. mostly happens where its costantly cold and humid. you got all the hot gases pumping up to the covers and the outside air is cold. next thing you know your freaking out thinking you have a blown head gasket but the dipstick looks clean.
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Yep. I've even seen it here in sunny dry Colorado in the winter and spring on cars driven year round. Not really an issue in year round warm dry climates. I've even seen milk at the very top of the dipstick, that'll freak anyone out, lol.

I've even had to remove the aftermarket breather on winter driven V8's that the customer brought in and install a hose in to breathe through the aftermarket air cleaner knockout to reduce moisture in the oil. Driving year round is tough on oil with water misting in rain storms, puddle splash, temp changes, etc.

Again, in your neck of the woods this may all be a moot point and even more so if the car is a fair weather driver. The original poster lives Illinois where it's very humid, that's why I suggested going with the PCV. I used to see my garage floor sweat big beads of moisture when I lived there. It's part of the reason why I moved. Nothing like spraying down a freshly machined block with WD-40 in the spring and two weeks later it's rusting regardless. Slopping motor oil on the block was the only thing that worked short term. Long term storage (6mo+) would require greasing the bore or or using a firearm type metal preservative.

I would also like to add that a strip only car should have an exhaust style evac system or a vacuum pump as those are the only styles that pull out blow by in WFO conditions. Open breathers won't hurt anything in race only conditions (sprint, circle track, etc.) but these engines are pulled down regularly anyway and run hot enough to burn off any moisture. A good evac system can help ring seal and reduce pumping losses in certain engine builds too and can increase HP. All that air and blow by in the crankcase has to be beat around and pushed from under one cylinder to another. IIRC, GM had a problem when designing the LS1 and had to add "windows" through the main webbing as the original design was building a tremendous amount of crankcase pressure and blasting oil up on the rotating assembly. Harley Davidson had this problem too but I can't remember what engine design it was. Ideally a vacuum pump is the best solution as there would be no resistance under the pistons if the crankcase is under a vacuum. I've seen tests where over 20 hp was gained over 5500 rpm using a v pump. Of course, using a v pump requires sealed valve covers with AN fittings and steel core gaskets on the pan and VCs to avoid sucking the gaskets in.

The system used for any given purpose should be given some thought as to how the engine (car) will be driven and the environment that the car will be driven in.

Just food for thought. :read2:
 
it gets so humid here some times that my tools inside the toolbox sweat.

im just going to run the pcv valve.....as long as i can find a gromet that will fit the valve cover
 
Your local auto parts store may have what you need and you can measure it right there on the spot or bring your VC in. :)
 
Hmmmm,just plug it up and see,It stands to reason if you plug it up the engine will richen up,and if you pull the pcv valve off of the end it will lean it out.it's basicly a controlled vacume leak.plus having it hooked up does have other advantages that ramcharger has pointed out.If you had a meter to test the air fuel meter at the tailpipe you could see the diffrence with and without the pcv.but hey do what you wan't,the factory put them things on there to lower emissions,how could it lower emissions?besides look at em...what could they know??? :cheers:
redfastback said:
I personally have never had any buildup on my valve covers.

Hey Waggin, can you explain how a NOT running a PCV makes it run richer?? I am not getting it..
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spudsterier said:
it gets so humid here some times that my tools inside the toolbox sweat.

im just going to run the pcv valve.....as long as i can find a gromet that will fit the valve cover
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Your weather definitely dictates you using one....I have never been to Illinois so didn't realize it was that humid.](*,)


Joe, thanks for an in depth insight. Very good read.:read2: I did know about race cars, but I guess I am sheltered, being that I work alot on cars driven in fair weather and ONLY in Cali.....:-D
 
waggin said:
Hmmmm,just plug it up and see,It stands to reason if you plug it up the engine will richen up,and if you pull the pcv valve off of the end it will lean it out.it's basicly a controlled vacume leak.plus having it hooked up does have other advantages that ramcharger has pointed out.If you had a meter to test the air fuel meter at the tailpipe you could see the diffrence with and without the pcv.but hey do what you wan't,the factory put them things on there to lower emissions,how could it lower emissions?besides look at em...what could they know??? :cheers:
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The emissions portion is so the crankcase gases are burned and not put into the atmosphere. I did not see any difference in my motor running rich when I went from with one to without one. Newer cars DO need one the way the engine systems are designed.

The point is, the OP does need one due to his climate.
 
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