Penetrant test

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YY1

YY1

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I've seen similar posted but not sure this exact one.

I like how he uses 4 test nuts and averages.

Seems to like Seafoam and CRC, then WD40 spec.

In addition to brake fluid.

 
I like all the videos Project Farm has. Answers allot of questions about so many products.
 
Isnt Seafom just Naptha? He didnt try ATF/Kerosene....usually can be made in the garage from available jugs of stuff at 11PM
 
I have found tests like this give me ideas on how to make best use of penetrants, but I still use what works best for me. Pb blaster and heat.
 
In the beginning he says ATF did well in episode 1.
 
Nothing beats Kroil
We used Kroil in power generation which has very harsh conditions.
Kroil is not readily available in auto parts stores around my parts, plus its expensive
I keep BP blaster on the shelf in the shop
 
pishta said:
Isnt Seafom just Naptha? He didnt try ATF/Kerosene....usually can be made in the garage from available jugs of stuff at 11PM
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He tried the ATF/Acetone in another video and sea foam still came out on top. Sea Foam is the shizzle, yo.
 
Steve welder said:
Nothing beats Kroil
We used Kroil in power generation which has very harsh conditions.
Kroil is not readily available in auto parts stores around my parts, plus its expensive
I keep BP blaster on the shelf in the shop
Click to expand...
My local NAPA stocks Kroil and I buy it in gallon cans.
 
YY1 said:
I've seen similar posted but not sure this exact one
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Probably the experiment published in Machinist's Workshop 20:2 April/May 2007 and followed up on by Sterkel
Summary of penetrating-oil test (pdf)

A description of the test. "In case you're wondering, he made a series of shafts and sleeves and corroded them in a salt bath solution. Then the load needed to break the shafts free was tested using a Baldwin compressometer set on 1200-pound scale to determine the load required on the 6 identical setups."
 
Steve welder said:
Nothing beats Kroil
We used Kroil in power generation which has very harsh conditions.
Kroil is not readily available in auto parts stores around my parts, plus its expensive
I keep BP blaster on the shelf in the shop
Click to expand...
I wonder why they dont sell it at Autozone? they have a few high dollar items on that same shelf. Old timer told me PB blaster was WD40 with a little acid added. Who knows. Anyone remember Gibbs? They said the stuff would leak out of a normal aerosol can valve.
 
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I have used Kroil, PB Blaster and regular WD-40 with really good results, however if I run into a bolt that is really stuck, I just plan to hit it with multiple applications of the penetrant usually over a day or so.
I have found it to be the exception when a stuck nut - bolt is positioned so the bolt threads act like a funnel.
A good video, I like it that this guy gets to the point without a bunch of: Bright lead in Graphics, Wild Music and excess BS about the importance of his show.
 
pishta said:
I wonder why they dont sell it at Autozone? they have a few high dollar items on that same shelf. Old timer told me PB blaster was WD40 with a little acid added. Who knows. Anyone remember Gibbs? They said the stuff would leak out of a normal aerosol can valve.
Click to expand...
I use WD 40 all the time but never for rust penetration. I buy a gallon and use a sprayer bottle and I find this economical and a better application
Kroil cans, not the spray, and Never Seize cans were literally everywhere to be found in the powerhouse during the 20 plus years I worked there. It was a staple, that they never ran out of, cases upon cases of this stuff, that and Permatex #1 &2.
Your talking about extreme high temperatures, steam, salt water used for cooling, all kinds of equipment
However many parts were so frozen, only heating red with a torch would work
All fasteners had anti seize applied, that was standard procedure
When I went into ship repair, once I was standing on some below deck stiffener, I was about waist high to the decking next to a main engine, it was a tight area.
I had to burn something, I forget. What I didn't know was someone dropped a WD 40 can below me.
The molten metal from what I was cutting hit that WD can and pierced it. Flames shot out about 8 feet inches from my body and face. I was like, what the F is this. The guy above me ran for a fire extinguisher, I couldn't really move, the flames died out has the pressure in the can got weaker
Another learning experience
 
Steve welder said:
I use WD 40 all the time but never for rust penetration. I buy a gallon and use a sprayer bottle and I find this economical and a better application
Kroil cans, not the spray, and Never Seize cans were literally everywhere to be found in the powerhouse during the 20 plus years I worked there. It was a staple, that they never ran out of, cases upon cases of this stuff, that and Permatex #1 &2.
Your talking about extreme high temperatures, steam, salt water used for cooling, all kinds of equipment
However many parts were so frozen, only heating red with a torch would work
All fasteners had anti seize applied, that was standard procedure
When I went into ship repair, once I was standing on some below deck stiffener, I was about waist high to the decking next to a main engine, it was a tight area.
I had to burn something, I forget. What I didn't know was someone dropped a WD 40 can below me.
The molten metal from what I was cutting hit that WD can and pierced it. Flames shot out about 8 feet inches from my body and face. I was like, what the F is this. The guy above me ran for a fire extinguisher, I couldn't really move, the flames died out has the pressure in the can got weaker
Another learning experience
Click to expand...
This story reminds me of a funny(now) story. Years ago, my wife worked in a bank check processing center, and they were getting rid of a big old 110v 10key mechanical calculator/printer which hadn't been used in some time. She brought it home for me to use for taxes, but it was kind of gummed up with oil & dust. So I sprayed the number stamp keys with WD40 and then hit the total key, again and again, and it was beginning to free the stamping keys up. Spray, hit the total key, repeat. It was working but slowly, so I got impatient and held the total key down and sprayed at the same time. Worked great, until there was a bright flash and flame and I smelled burning hair. Lost most of my eyebrows, mustache, & hair on my fingers. Like I said, it's funny now, not so much at the time.

As for the penetrating oil, I've used most of those and they are pretty good, but my fave is Mopar heater control solvent. It was originally for exhaust manifold heat risers, and exhaust manifold to head pipe bolts.
 
Acetone and ATF works well, but Kroil is the best IMHO. As stated Kroil is hard to find, I have a gallon from years past. PB Blaster is what I usually use. I refuse to use WD-40. I used to paint cars and Silicon and paint do not mix.
 
Rusted torsion bar in the LCA. Used about a can and a half of PB Blaster on it over several days without success.

Picked up a can of CRC Freeze Off... used nearly the entire can on the problem area and 5 minutes later had it off..

20220313_202210.jpg
 
So far, I've not found anything that works better than SeaFoam Deep Creep. The stuff just flat out works.
 
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