'Performance' Distributor?

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Haven't tried it, but with no vacuum advance I'm not sure I'd go that route on a street/daily driver.
 
Yup these have been talked about before, you're better off rebuilding an original distributor and tweaking the advance within. Spend your money elsewhere than on one of these
 
Choosing an ignition system is like driving in traffic this way: do everything you can to avoid getting a DUI! It's just that the traffic kind involves getting pinched for driving while impaired by alcohol or drugs, and the ignition kind involves getting conned out of money for a scammy ignition system which, until it fails, doesn't do what is claimed. Three hunnerd and thirty-nine dollars for a Chinese knockoff distributor and HEI module…for that money I'd expect (demand) breakfast in bed the next morning!

By putting in Pertronix or doing the HEI upgrade you'll wind up with at least as good a spark as this DUI Tri-Power scam, and with better resistance to real-world conditions like (stay with me here, this gets complicated and you have to use your imagination) water splashing the distributor as you drive.
 
Selling a dist for street use without vac adv shows only one thing: how ignorant the dist company is of ign systems/requirements for street driven cars.
 
Bewy said:
Selling a dist for street use without vac adv shows only one thing: how ignorant the dist company is of ign systems/requirements for street driven cars.
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Your toilet might flush the wrong way, but you sure got that one right my down under brother.
 
Point taken. Thanks guys. On a related note, does anyone know of someone in the Pacific Northwest that could hold my hand through tweaking a distributor? I'm mechanically semi-literate but not experienced in hot roddery.
 
Slugfarm said:
Point taken. Thanks guys. On a related note, does anyone know of someone in the Pacific Northwest that could hold my hand through tweaking a distributor? I'm mechanically semi-literate but not experienced in hot roddery.
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Can you use a MIG welder?
 
I'd have to be taught. Would love the chance to learn this stuff.
 
Bewy said:
What exactly are you trying to do?
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Mostly just trying to learn how to tune and fix my car myself. Currently I'm focussing on the hesitation on launch issue with the acceleration, as well as what seems like a high RPM (3.2K at 75 mph). I got hooked by Uncle Tony's video on switching up the distributor springs.
 
I'm in the neighborhood and can rebuild one. Figuring out the curve is a hair above my pay grade but I can install it. Shoot me a PM if you'd like to discuss this.
 
I can definately do one need more info though. Shoot me the engine specs in a message and trans AT or MT? Biggestt thing is getting the curve right for your motor. Not just springs also total mechanical and vacuum. Run from the performance springs from summet, they are set up to go full almost immediately.
 
FBO Distributor Limiter Plate & Spring Kit

Use the lightest springs in the kit, put the plate on "10" and set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the RPM high enough that the weights are at full advance (with the light springs that is not bad, 2000-2500 RPM) to 30-33 degrees (I use 30 do to the Az heat and 20+ mile hill climbs for detonation, 33 can give a bit more power).
 
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Jim Kueneman said:
FBO Distributor Limiter Plate & Spring Kit

Use the lightest springs in the kit, put the plate on "10" and set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected to 30-33 degrees (I use 30 do to the Az heat and 20+ mile hill climbs for detonation, 33 can give a bit more power).
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Set it to 30-33 degree with the engine at a high enough RPM so that the weights are full advanced. With the light springs it is a much lower RPM than with the stock. At idle the timing will be about 18'ish degrees. That one is not as important. The important one is with RPM high enough that the weights are fully advanced.
 
Jim Kueneman said:
FBO Distributor Limiter Plate & Spring Kit

Use the lightest springs in the kit, put the plate on "10" and set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the RPM high enough that the weights are at full advance (with the light springs that is not bad, 2000-2500 RPM) to 30-33 degrees (I use 30 do to the Az heat and 20+ mile hill climbs for detonation, 33 can give a bit more power).
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I used the plate on mine for a short period of time. I got about 16 out of the 10 slots on the plate, because it's not made for the slant 6, although it does fit. I ended up removing the plate, welding the governor slots and filing them to the proper 10 crank degrees. Now I have about 21 initial and 31 total. Just right.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I used the plate on mine for a short period of time. I got about 16 out of the 10 slots on the plate, because it's not made for the slant 6, although it does fit. I ended up removing the plate, welding the governor slots and filing them to the proper 10 crank degrees. Now I have about 21 initial and 31 total. Just right.
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Even the V8 you can’t get over 18 initial. They are precise and repeatable but not accurate on the specified value.
 
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