Phenolic Spacer and Throttle Linkage

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1969VADart

1969VADart

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When I installed the Edelbrock carburetor on my 69 Dart I went ahead and decided to install a phenolic spacer after I experienced some of the common heat soak issues and fuel boiling in the carb. I originally installed a 1" spacer, but when I connected the throttle return spring and throttle cable it pulled the carb linkage partially open. I decided to switch to a 1/2" phenolic spacer, but while cruising around town, I still developed some mild fuel boiling problems. I would like to switch back to the 1" spacer to hopefully alleviate the fuel boiling problems completely. I really only need about 1/2-3/4" in extra length for the throttle cable. Is there a way to lengthen the cable (or give me some extra length), or am I likely stuck having to buy a new throttle cable. I realized when I first pulled the throttle cable out of its mounting bracket, it just pulled the accelerator pedal down towards the floor (probably an obvious fact to the more automotively inclined). The carb came with a throttle linkage adapter, but I could not see how it would attach to the old style cable end (the the u-shaped connector with the cable ball inside that attaches to the rod on the carb linkage). Any thoughts or pictures of how you guys made the 1" spacer work would be appreciated.
 
Been there. Could not understand why she was laying down in the upper RPM's after I put a spacer in. LOL I fixed mine buy drilling a hole down farther on the throttle bracket. Lower you go the shorter the throw.
 
Did you raise the spring and cable to match the carb height? If not you could get into an overcenter situation and wind up in wot condition. That usually doesn't have a good outcome.
 
i use the 1/2 thick wood laminate spacer under all my edelbrocks and have never had a boiling issue since, and make sure you have the chrysler throttle linkage adapter, it sure makes linkage hookup easier!! this will move your throttle linkage hookup back a bit closer to factory location. here is a pic of a 360 i installed in my plow truck yesterday it has a performer manifold with spacer and linkage adapter. its a little blurry but you should be able to see what im talking about. i am using all the factory cable and kickdown linkage from the 318 2bbl that was in the truck. no problems at all.
 

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Moparmarcus said:
I had the exact same issue when I put a spacer on my road runner (for the same reason). I made an extension from a piece of 1/2" flat stock. It's been working fine for about 6 years now.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=8265
Click to expand...

That is a very interesting set up. I may have to consider giving that a try.

dartjack said:
Did you raise the spring and cable to match the carb height? If not you could get into an overcenter situation and wind up in wot condition. That usually doesn't have a good outcome.
Click to expand...

Is there an adapter to raise the spring and cable height? I did not change anything with the half inch spacer. I will try to get a picture to share here to show what it looks like right now with the 1/2" spacer. The throttle seems to work fine with that setup. But I would like to decrease even more or eliminate all together the fuel boiling issue.
 
Post #5. You are getting close to overcenter at wot with that spring angle. You need to move the spring up to where it is parallel to the carb flange.
 
dartjack said:
Post #5. You are getting close to overcenter at wot with that spring angle. You need to move the spring up to where it is parallel to the carb flange.
Click to expand...

Part of the problem with that is he's using the 2v throttle bracket instead of the 4v bracket.
 
Bad Sport said:
Part of the problem with that is he's using the 2v throttle bracket instead of the 4v bracket.
Click to expand...

x2 classic has a correct 4bbl bracket for like $35.00, you will still have issues with the kick down....look into that also.

Second alternative is to buy a bolt on bracket from Jegs, and run a Loker kickdown, this keeps all the linkage nice and smooth, but it will run you about $150.00
 
dartjack said:
Post #5. You are getting close to overcenter at wot with that spring angle. You need to move the spring up to where it is parallel to the carb flange.
Click to expand...

I am no automotive genius. Could you explain to me a little bit about what you mean by "overcenter at wide open throttle."
 
guys thanks for the input about post #5 but im not the one having the problem. i will listen to you guys about moving the return spring angle more parallel to see if it changes anything. and as far as buying the 4bbl bracket ive never seen a need to do so. come to think of it everything ive ever put together i have used the 2bbl brackets only thing i do is bend the cable hold down area to be in the vertical position instead of the horizontal. i have used the factory kickdown linkage also. the only thing i have a lokar on is my 70 swinger and the reason for that is when i had the engine and trans out i used the linkage on another car i was working on. so i was short a set of linkage and the lokar was cheaper than factory style linkage when i went to put it back together. i dont have throttle sticking issues or kick down issues with any of my stuff i am very strict on making sure the kickdown is functioning properly i learned along time ago with my first daily driver dart at the age of 16 it needs to work properly or you will be needing a transmission in a short time.... thanks for the input i will look things over just to make sure i didnt miss something.
 
dgswinger said:
i use the 1/2 thick wood laminate spacer under all my edelbrocks and have never had a boiling issue since, and make sure you have the chrysler throttle linkage adapter, it sure makes linkage hookup easier!! this will move your throttle linkage hookup back a bit closer to factory location. here is a pic of a 360 i installed in my plow truck yesterday it has a performer manifold with spacer and linkage adapter. its a little blurry but you should be able to see what im talking about. i am using all the factory cable and kickdown linkage from the 318 2bbl that was in the truck. no problems at all.
Click to expand...

This might be another silly question, but would the wood spacer be better for heat reduction than the phenolic spacer (made of the composite/plastic type material)? Anyone had any experience with which one works best? I would be willing to switch to the 1/2" wood spacer if that will work better. The linkage angles on my setup with the 1/2" phenolic spacer seem to function fine.
 
1969VADart said:
This might be another silly question, but would the wood spacer be better for heat reduction than the phenolic spacer (made of the composite/plastic type material)? Anyone had any experience with which one works best? I would be willing to switch to the 1/2" wood spacer if that will work better. The linkage angles on my setup with the 1/2" phenolic spacer seem to function fine.
Click to expand...

Phenolic is just fine. Did you go from a 2v to a 4v? If so did you also replace the throttle cable bracket?
 
1969VADart said:
I am no automotive genius. Could you explain to me a little bit about what you mean by "overcenter at wide open throttle."
Click to expand...

With things out of proper geometry when you go to WOT the spring pops over and drops to the point it can't pull the linkage/carb back to rest. That can be and is a very dangerous situation if you aren't able to kill the engine quick enough.
 
You need to get a 4 bbl throttle cable bracket.

For my setup below i used a slant 6 cable which is longer and i modifies a later 360 truck bracket

The other pic is of 2 bbl and 4 bbl brackets . Orange is 4 bbl.
 

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