My father has finished painting his '66 Baracuda and is in the process of rewiring under the hood. Trouble is he forgot what went where. Can someone post some closeup pics of wiring that I can send him until I get a wiring diagram to him? Thanks
Pictures of wiring please
- Thread starter chrisd
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You are going to have to give us a bit 'o detail. What engine do you have, for starters?
Much of this "only fits one way." Certain "key connectors" only fit one place. Example, look for the end of a harness with a large ring terminal. It either goes on the starter or the alternator, depending on the size, or the starter relay.
Other wires you can ID by stuff like the color. Oil sender, temp sender, etc. are wires which break out singly with a single connector.
Much of this "only fits one way." Certain "key connectors" only fit one place. Example, look for the end of a harness with a large ring terminal. It either goes on the starter or the alternator, depending on the size, or the starter relay.
Other wires you can ID by stuff like the color. Oil sender, temp sender, etc. are wires which break out singly with a single connector.
It's a '67, 318 car. He is putting back the original harness. someof the stuff is self explanitory, others could probably be figured out with some time. He called today and was talking about going and looking at some cars in a couple of weeks. If I can get a few pictures of relays, voltage regulator, etc. It'll save him a trip.
Thanks
Thanks
Here's some pictures of some that I've seen at shows to get you started. If you need to zoom in on them more, PM me and I can send the originals to you.
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A05 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A06 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A07 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A08 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Wht A08 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Wht A09 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A05 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A06 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A07 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Blu A08 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Wht A08 B.jpg
View attachment 65 Cuda Wht A09 B.jpg
Wait a second....
Is it a 66 or 67???
That makes a difference. I would have to post other pictures for a 67 car.
Here's a few pics of the under hood of my 66! Message back if you need to see specific areas! Geof
Dual field alternator hookup! Your set up may vary!
I can help tell you where the dual field alt wires go, I'm rewiring my son's 72 challenger engine compartment and am in middle of wiring that all up.
Let me know....
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
These diagrams sometimes have advantages.......they are sometimes easier to follow
However they are NOT factory, nor are they complete. They leave out some connectors, and on some cars, options that may be present. Regardless of some people's opinions on this board lately, there is only one horses mouth........and that is the original Mopar OEM manuals
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
True. However, any semi-accurate diagram you reference will be better than taking totally useless pictures from 20 feet away.
Hard to imagine how pictures would even work at all. But that's just me.
These were nearly perfect! Thanks rmchgr! We were able to follow them all out except for one. Can anyone tell me which wire this is? It's on the middle block, top far left. The other I believe is the neutral safety wire? Anyone? Thanks again for everyone's help!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That is REALLY some nasty looking stuff. What are the two wires hooked to the "push on" terminals on the starter relay? One looks? like it's got yellow tape all over it?
In the bottom of your photo is a big red wire spliced to "something else" with a blue connector. That connector is known as a 3M (brand) "Scotchlok" and those are pieces of **** from the word go.
What color is the "mystery wire" black? with ?? tracer? says 'here is the other picture'
That APPEARS to be one of the two that connects to the starter relay, should be black / yellow tracer?
What do you mean "middle block far left," you talking about the top left of the bulkhead connector?
LOOK at your wiring diagram. LOOK at the wire color. Have you downloaded the 66 shop manual?
Page 306 that is 8-118. I'm not sure what cavity you are referring to. It might b D? Violet? would be part of the back up lights harness for a stick transmission. Automatic backup switch is in the car, on the shifter linkage
In the bottom of your photo is a big red wire spliced to "something else" with a blue connector. That connector is known as a 3M (brand) "Scotchlok" and those are pieces of **** from the word go.
What color is the "mystery wire" black? with ?? tracer? says 'here is the other picture'
That APPEARS to be one of the two that connects to the starter relay, should be black / yellow tracer?
What do you mean "middle block far left," you talking about the top left of the bulkhead connector?
LOOK at your wiring diagram. LOOK at the wire color. Have you downloaded the 66 shop manual?
Page 306 that is 8-118. I'm not sure what cavity you are referring to. It might b D? Violet? would be part of the back up lights harness for a stick transmission. Automatic backup switch is in the car, on the shifter linkage
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
That wire on the bottom right of the starter relay is a short waiting to happen. Based on those pics, I'd say that the whole car needs to be looked over from an electrical standpoint.
I agree that the wire with the stepped connector looks like the one that goes to the starter relay.
Del has posted exactly what you need as far as identifying wires coming out of the bulkhead connector. Depending on options, you may not have everything listed in the diagram but you should be able to figure out what you are looking at. That listing is not in those diagrams I posted so YRMV.
Again, that wiring needs some attention before stuff starts burning up. Corrosion is usually the main cause of high resistance. The nut on the stud on the starter relay is pretty crusty looking and there is a lot of current going through it. If you get a higher resistance value on a circuit that isn't designed for it, the potential for melting stuff is greatly increased. Plus, old wiring gets brittle with age. The insulation cracks and that's when things start going bad. Not to mention people rigging stuff over the years.
Case in point; I was at Carlisle last weekend. These guys were putting the original '68 Don Grotheer Road Runner Super Stocker around the grounds when smoke started coming out of the hood. I happened to be standing right next to it when it happened. They opened the hood to see what the problem was. They were going crazy looking around for what was on fire and luckily I saw it immediately and pointed it out. The ballast resistor wires were completely melted and smoking badly right behind the air cleaner. This is an original car with the original wiring. Good thing they caught it or that could have been ugly.
I agree that the wire with the stepped connector looks like the one that goes to the starter relay.
Del has posted exactly what you need as far as identifying wires coming out of the bulkhead connector. Depending on options, you may not have everything listed in the diagram but you should be able to figure out what you are looking at. That listing is not in those diagrams I posted so YRMV.
Again, that wiring needs some attention before stuff starts burning up. Corrosion is usually the main cause of high resistance. The nut on the stud on the starter relay is pretty crusty looking and there is a lot of current going through it. If you get a higher resistance value on a circuit that isn't designed for it, the potential for melting stuff is greatly increased. Plus, old wiring gets brittle with age. The insulation cracks and that's when things start going bad. Not to mention people rigging stuff over the years.
Case in point; I was at Carlisle last weekend. These guys were putting the original '68 Don Grotheer Road Runner Super Stocker around the grounds when smoke started coming out of the hood. I happened to be standing right next to it when it happened. They opened the hood to see what the problem was. They were going crazy looking around for what was on fire and luckily I saw it immediately and pointed it out. The ballast resistor wires were completely melted and smoking badly right behind the air cleaner. This is an original car with the original wiring. Good thing they caught it or that could have been ugly.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
There's a few places to get wiring harnesses but I think you might be beyond that. An electronic distributor ain't gonna do any good if you can't start the car or it burns to the ground.
Listen, I'm sure you could get away with repairing some of this stuff and it would probably be OK for a while but I guarantee the more you drove the car with what looks like a marginal electrical system the more problems will be cropping up at inopportune times.
At the very least, I'd take a careful look at the wires going through the bulkhead in particular. Pull 'em, clean 'em up, pack the bulkhead cavities with dielectric grease and re-connect. Besides that, clean up the starter relay and tape up that exposed wire. Kinda hard to ignore that one.
Listen, I'm sure you could get away with repairing some of this stuff and it would probably be OK for a while but I guarantee the more you drove the car with what looks like a marginal electrical system the more problems will be cropping up at inopportune times.
At the very least, I'd take a careful look at the wires going through the bulkhead in particular. Pull 'em, clean 'em up, pack the bulkhead cavities with dielectric grease and re-connect. Besides that, clean up the starter relay and tape up that exposed wire. Kinda hard to ignore that one.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Start by reading this article. It points out what happens with these old girls
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Even if you don't do this bypass, that article points out the whys and whats of these cars
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Even if you don't do this bypass, that article points out the whys and whats of these cars
So maybe I wasn't clear on my question. The car is not beyond putting a new wiring harness in it. I understand what happens with old wiring. For those who have restored their cars, who where did you get your new harness's?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There is several ways to go, depending on harness condition and your skill level, and purpose
1........Strip the old out, lay it out and nail it down, mark it, un tape it, replace all or some wires, rework the end terminals.
2........Buy a used one in good condition. They show up, obviously in various places........here, ebay, etc, Craigslist, and there are commercial sellers who deal
3........The "Year One" types that sell "repop" factory exact replacement harnesses
4........Any number of aftermarket "generic" harnesses, and there's a bunch. Painless, Ron Francis, American Autowire, Rusty on here is trying out a "Speedway" 20 circuit generic harness. I might get one myself. I have a Painless I bought "sort of used" that was in the car. There's a guy here locally (Spokane Craigslist) who seems to always have a 12 circuit generic harness. No idea where he gets them or where they come from
You can buy the connector terminals through places like NAPA, assuming your connector bodies are not melted, damaged, etc.
The generic harnesses lend themselves to radical changes......eliminating the bulkhead connector, going to electric pumps, fans, and EFI, etc, and eliminating the ammeter.
If you want "restore correct" then you'd have to stay away from the last
1........Strip the old out, lay it out and nail it down, mark it, un tape it, replace all or some wires, rework the end terminals.
2........Buy a used one in good condition. They show up, obviously in various places........here, ebay, etc, Craigslist, and there are commercial sellers who deal
3........The "Year One" types that sell "repop" factory exact replacement harnesses
4........Any number of aftermarket "generic" harnesses, and there's a bunch. Painless, Ron Francis, American Autowire, Rusty on here is trying out a "Speedway" 20 circuit generic harness. I might get one myself. I have a Painless I bought "sort of used" that was in the car. There's a guy here locally (Spokane Craigslist) who seems to always have a 12 circuit generic harness. No idea where he gets them or where they come from
You can buy the connector terminals through places like NAPA, assuming your connector bodies are not melted, damaged, etc.
The generic harnesses lend themselves to radical changes......eliminating the bulkhead connector, going to electric pumps, fans, and EFI, etc, and eliminating the ammeter.
If you want "restore correct" then you'd have to stay away from the last
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