Pictures of wonder plugs, good cheap ECU source and stupid people

[adriver]

I’m putting it in a new thread. I described it here.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=264638
(Post 9)
Well, found why the car was missing at idle under load and under accleration.
All I had to do was replace the Autolite AP66 plugs.
These plugs have been in the car for at least 7 years.
74 miles a day 5 days a week do the math.
Yep, that's like a 40 thousand gap too now.
Think I got my money out of them?
Just started “missing” a week or two ago. I brag on how this car is so reliable, all I ever have to do is check the oil and water.
Get 23 MPG hwy with a cop 318 and lock up trans and cop rear end.

The box report.
I’ve got several used boxes but figured I would spring for new 4 pin one just to have since I can now afford it.
The blue ones didn’t even work from O’Reily’s. I tried two.
MasterPro® Ignition - Ignitor
Part # 2-7037 19.99

Auto Zone these on the shelf. Looks like good quality for the same price.
Has words printed on it and everything.
Duralast/Ignition Control Module
Part Number: CR109 19.99


One more thing I saw today I could not believe I was seeing.
On the test drive, I went to fill up. Some fellow was actually poring the gas dregs out of a can by the gas pumps to put fresh gas in the can. I mean at least a quart or more.
Could have been a water mix, but still, I smelled it.
He was a older guy with suspenders and had another gas can in the back of his truck.
Needless to say I went to another station.
Folks, these people are walking the earth with us.

 

[inkjunkie]

One more thing I saw today I could not believe I was seeing.
On the test drive, I went to fill up. Some fellow was actually poring the gas dregs out of a can by the gas pumps to put fresh gas in the can. I mean at least a quart or more.
Could have been a water mix, but still, I smelled it.
He was a older guy with suspenders and had another gas can in the back of his truck.
Needless to say I went to another station.
Folks, these people are walking the earth with us.[/B]

:wack:......you are not serious......are you?

 

[adriver]

Oh yes, that's why I put a rant in with this little bit of trivial information about my find.
It was a gas can.
He was pouring liquid from it on the ground right by the pump and I smelled gas from 20 feet away.
So it was:
1. Gas
2. Water
3 A mixture of the two.
And it was a puddle over 2 feet across.
Either way, not a good thing to do. Just bad practice and inconsiderate at best.
Dangerous at worst.
As they say: "Sorry for the rant. Rant over".

 

[68383GTS]

I would stay far far far away from the Duralast and the MasterPro garbage....

 

[memike]

Well I must agree you got your monies worth out of the plugs :cheers: Do you mind me asking what Carb that is you are running adriver ? You have it set peeerfect for the plugs to look that way :glasses7: Looking for a good low cfm carb myself, 400 to 500 cfm. of any brand name.
Congratulations on your finr tune and set up :coffee2:

 

[KitCarlson]

While you are looking at the gap, the plug insulator is also important, one is really dirty, and might contribute to misfire. Autolite is not a favorite choice for me, I have found combustion leaks at insulator to body seal. They used grout, not a crimp seal like most.

 

[adriver]

Well I must agree you got your monies worth out of the plugs :cheers: Do you mind me asking what Carb that is you are running adriver ? You have it set peeerfect for the plugs to look that way :glasses7: Looking for a good low cfm carb myself, 400 to 500 cfm. of any brand name.
Congratulations on your finr tune and set up :coffee2:

Sorry for the delay in response.
It's a junk yard Q jet.
Years ago when you could find them in junk yards around here, I got all I could that were of the type I was looking for.
But you had to be fast to beat Sanford and Son to them.
They went quick off the car then.
Now they pull them before the cars even get on the lot.
I wish I had gotten more.

I can’t tell you exactly what that one is right now, but I’ll check the number this weekend and look it up. I got loads of spare parts too. Metering rods, hangars for the secondary jets. (That’s one way the secondary are timed to pull the rods up.)
I’ve mixed and matched a few. And I have run others as pulled from Caddies.
I like the spread bore design of a Q Jet and they don’t have float bowls on the side to leak. They are just a good designed carb.
I got mine off of mid 70’s cars.
They made millions of the things in millions of configurations.
Earlier Q jets uses different metering rods so I tried to “specialize” and have standardization on my fleet.
Makes things easy.
A Torqflight shifts by throttle position.
That’s what I’m told.
And if the linkage is not correct the trans will slip and burn.
That’s what I’m told.
So what I did for all my cars was duplicate the arm from the 80’s electronic Q Jet that was on a Diplomat cop car. That gave me the correct “throw” on the trans linkage.
I used it for a pattern and made them for the GM carbs.
The original lever/arm is staked on the shaft in the base of the carb.
Grind the stake off flush with the shaft to remove the GM arm.
Tap the Chrysler patterned arm on the arm and tack weld it. (Attach the welding ground to the new arm, not the shaft.)
That’s how it is done.
Is Victoria a small block or a slant? I can’t remember.
I’m sure I could fix you up with an arm if you want to try it on a small block.
You may be able to still find a good Q Jet in your neck of the woods for cheap.
And I'm thinking a small block one from the 70s would be the size you want.
PM me if you go that route.

 

[memike]

Thank you , I am waiting on a storm system to get out of our area and get out to MEB"S salvage and take a look around :glasses7: Thanks adriver I will, and sounds like you have had the same luck as I have in the past with the Q jet
as I have in the past :thumleft:.. all good :cheers:

 

[adriver]

memike,

I pulled it apart today to put fresh gaskets in it. I tend to reuse gasket a lot.
Figured it was time for new ones. The kit is only 19 dollars at AutoZone.
And they had one on the shelf.
Here's the numbers.
I may have re-jetted it. Or not. Can't remember or keep up. I would guess that it is "as pulled" from a 77 GM 350. Can't make out what CFM a 17057253 would actually be from an internet search. But that is the type which you may have a chance of finding in a yard. Pretty common back then.
Primary rods are 49k with 73 jets.
Secondary hangar is an "N" with "CV" coded rods.



http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5092

Uncletruck G Body Guru Posts: 449Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 11:51 pmLocation: Erie, PA



Postby Uncletruck on Sun Jun 08, 2008 8:35 pm

Yes best bet is to use one from 78-80, it will bolt right on and the only messing around you'll have to do will be possibly blocking some vacuum ports or rerouting some vacuum lines. Electric choke M4MC's are easy to find, some popular model numbers are 17058202, 17058204, 17058250, 17058253, 17058257-58-59, 1708502, 17058504, 17058553, 17058555. 17058582, and 17058584. That is just a sampling of some of the non computer Quadrajets that were used during the early 78-80 G/B body era, used on all the GM engine lines.

 

[Abodybomber]

Nice ......