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Michael Siple

Michael Siple

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Wilmington, De.
Have a 340 block ready to assemble. # 0B259831 , FW340P31220183 ,been thru machine shop - bored/honed with plate, align hone mains, resurface, magna-fluxed, cam brgs., tower shaft brg. , 060 over bore with #5 sleeved

Original forged steel crank - #2532457 cut 010/010,

stock rods # 3418645 , floating pins

Heads - set of J heads 202/160 #3418915 or a set of Indy Aeroheads , 202/160 #348915 , new in box from 20+ years ago

Cam/lifters - my own used unidentifiable mech f/t stamped # 931958 with lifters (needs to be measured to know & lifters would be checked) I was happy with this cam
OR
a new in the box cam & lifter set 20 yrs old - Mopar P5007695 cam & Comp lifter set 822-16 - 20 yrs old - these are hyd flat tap

rockers are the 273 adjustables likely 1.5 ratio

intake is LD340 and carb is AVS2 800cfm or I have a 6 pak intake & carbs

Would need pistons/rings & on & on & on - would like to be 10.5:1 ,

Would these bits & pieces work together or would they be terribly mismatched. Or would you sell all this junk & stroke the thing like I did the last ?
 
i think you've got a lot of the bits and bobs there to make something pretty rock and roll, but it really comes down to budget and pain in the *** factor.

as somebody that's always built my own junk on a beer budget, and currently going thru a "dedicated cheapskate" 318 build i can certainly see the appeal of hitting the easy button and ordering up a stroker kit.

the .60 over gives me pause, though. i personally wouldn't build a high performance motor at that overbore with the expectation that it's going to last a long time or not have a potential overheating problem. now i know some of that is mostly wives tales on overbores running hot, but the fact remains that there is less material there now and with way more force being generated due to the stroker the integrity of the block should be considered. for a standard, mellow build, i wouldn't sweat it though.

parts of the decision that should be considered are: do you want a six-pack? do you want to spend moeny? and most importantly, how are you going to use the car? a burger cruiser takes the build one way and something more of a driver takes it the other.

myself, i'd probably try and use all the bits that i've got (with the exception of the cams but that's a personal hang up) build a bomb proof bottom end and sell off the rest to finance the rest of the build or pad the dancing girls and opium fund.
 
JMO, that mopar cam is a doorstop if it is the 484 on a 114 LSA.

Good start on parts to build a 340. Cam it to suit your use and drive it.
 
Get the block sonic checked to see thickness of cylinder walls, and the thrust side of the block. Then you know what you have.

.060 over is not an automatic death sentence for a block.
 
1WildRT said:
I like how you think... :lol:
Click to expand...
i mean, to be clear there needs to be a distinction. the mopar slush fund is totally different and entirely independent of any and all other funds. a real church and state situation, if you will.

however the dancing girls and opium are line itemed under general operating costs. at least as far as accounting goes.
 
I would sonic test the block @ 060 before i spent the money on
pistons/rings. Nothing wrong with a sleeve if installed correctly.
 
Michael Siple said:
then itsa doorstop
Click to expand...
fyi, some dudes love that cam. so if it's still in the package and stuff, there's somebody out there that'll pay good money for it.

throw that mess into "to adios for the monies" pile and use a torker intake as a door stop instead.
 
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