Pinion bearing install question...

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Weak440

Weak440

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I am working on building a 489 with 3.55 gears.

My question is about the small pinion bearing (nearest the yoke). I honed the large bearing (the bearing furthest from the yoke) and slipped it on to the new pinion on top of a .031 shim.

For a starting point, I measured the legth of the old crush sleeve and matched the length of the crush sleeve eliminator with a shim from the crush sleeve eliminator kit.

I slipped the new pinion with my honed "setup bearing" and crush sleeve eliminator in to the case. I went to put in the small bearing (nearest the yoke) and found that it either had such a tight fit on the pinion or it had to be pressed on to the yoke.

I know this is a stupid question but, I was really tired after a long day and didn't want to make a mistake. So, I stopped for the night. Does the small pinion bearing get pressed on to the pinion or is it supposed to be a "slip fit"?

Should I hone the old bearing and use it as a setup bearing too?

If you can't tell, this is the first differential I have tried to rebuild so... I am going to have lots of stupid question...:hiding:
 
The small bearing is tight going on, just pull it down with the nut, then, if the pinion has to come back out, just use a brass drift to remove. Very rarely do you get it right in the first 5 try's.
 
If you have the old one go for it. I just built the same rear and pressed the new bearing off way to many times for my liking. Did not have any old bearings laying around.
 
Alright guys, I got my pinion in and it took me forever!!! I want to run this past you guys to see what you think of how I did it.

I pressed my new large pinion on and set my crush sleeve eliminator on with a .015 shim on it. I held the pinion in the housing while I used the yoke and nut to press the small bearing on the pinion.

I spent about 90 minutes changing the shims on the crush sleeve eliminator until I got the proload (measured the rotating torque with the toque wrench shown in the attached pic).

After trying about 6 different combinations of shims, I finally narrowed it down to a .025 shim pack that SEEMED to work the best. With the shim pack on the crush sleeve eliminator I held the pinion in the housing, slipped the small bearing on the pinion. Followed by the original shim that was behind the original yoke. I used the yoke, pinion nut and washer to press the small pinion bearing on to the pinion.

I torqued it down to 50 ft/lbs and spun the yoke a few times in each direction. Then 80 ft/lbs and repeated this process until I maxed out my torque wrench at 150 ft/lbs.

I took my in/lb torque wrench and measured a consistant 18/19 in/lbs in both directions. This is of course with my NEW bearings and WITHOUT a seal in the housing...

I was exhausted after a long day (bad day at work) and left it as it sits in the pictures. I am going to take a break from it tonight and come back to tackle it tomorrow night.

What do you guys think of it so far?? :newb: at this!
 

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Ok, if no one has any more advice on setting the preload. I am going to set the carrier in tonight and see where I stand on the pinion depth and contact patch.
 
Looks like you got it right, but i would smack it a few times with a mallet and see if the preload is the same.
 
Were you using a crush sleeve or did you use a crush sleeve eliminator?

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First try tonight... too deep

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BRONZEBEE said:
Looks like you got it right, but i would smack it a few times with a mallet and see if the preload is the same.
Click to expand...

Do NOT strike anything with a hammer, that's a good way to put dimples in a bearing race..... torque and spin the way you have done is all you need.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Do NOT strike anything with a hammer, that's a good way to put dimples in a bearing race..... torque and spin the way you have done is all you need.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't have thought of that! Good thing I have been using my arbor press for everything!
 
mopar head said:
eliminator
Click to expand...

Hmm... when I get a chance I may use a cheater bar and tighten it tighter and see if the pre-load changes. If It does... then I may have to borrow a bigger torque wrench to do this :wack:
 
According to our resident pro, go ahead and get your pinion depth set and worry about preload last. Mine was so touchy that it was a matter of 2-.003 to get proper preload, and my kit only came with 30-20-10-.008 shims, I had modify my own.
 
HMMMMMmmmmm very interesting... I will look mine over for those marks tonight!

Thanks for the heads up!
 
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