Pinion shim ?? - 8.25

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superdart

Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
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OK, I have been reading the threads and how-to articles on setting up the rear end. I think I have it down. But I have a question on the shims themselves.

People are talking shim depths like .020, .030, etc.

When we took my 8.25 apart, we found a .068 shim under the inside pinion bearing race. That was the only shim in the case. Unfortunately we didn't expect it to be under the race, so when we were knocking the old race out, we were actually hitting the shim...so it is screwed.

Now, I have a set of 3.55s to install. They are from a 2004 Dodge Dakota V6. They are clearly marked (both ring and pinion) with -0820 (or maybe it's 0280- ). I assume this means .082 is a depth, and therefore a good starting point for shimming.

Now, the Motive Master kit I purchased has 6 shims for a combined 0.060 in total thickness. Nowhere near enough.

I stopped by the dodge dealer and they list the case shims from .020 to .038 in .001 increments. If this is the case, does dodge stack them under the race to get the right depth, or is my assumption of .082 way off? It just seems like a lot of shim. There is nothing in the Mopar system regarding pinion shims..only case shims.

If it is accurate, is it OK to stack two shims under the race to get in the ballpark, then use the pinion shims to fine tune it? I don't want to have to knock out the race once i get it installed.

Maybe use the old race and bearing for the test fit, as I have read to do?

Is there a good place to purchase those thicker case shims in a kit? The dealer wants $6 PER SHIM.
 
It's ok to stack shims under the race to get close (the unit doesn't know where the shims are) and thick ones like the original .082 were used but I've never seen a ring gear marked with what shim they want under the pinion. I wonder if those numbers had some other meaning? I have no idea where to get shims for a 8.25 case but if you can give me the dimensions I'll look through my bucket of shims and see if I have anything that might match up.

Using an old bearing that's had the center slightly opened up so it slips on and off the pinion is a great trick to find the shim you need without all the work pressing it apart every time. Just take enough out to allow the bearing to barely slide on and off by hand. Don't want it wobbling loose.
 
Thanks Fishy....

I guess I will start from scratch and see what I come up with, and then go from there.
 
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