Piston question

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one point often overlooked is this;

My engine has over 100,000 miles on it now. I live at least 20 miles from the nearest town. So every time the car goes out, It will have to travel 40 hiway miles. And so, for me, fuel mileage is pretty important.
The towns are small, and the cops are merciless, so there will be a lot of second-gear cruising involved. So again, fuel useage is always on my mind. That is why the 292/292/110 cam came out before the first summer was over. But that cam, taught me why the fuel mileage was so bad.
I then went the other way, to see if I was right. I installed a 270/276/110, and the fuel consumption plummeted. So I knew I was on the right track.
Of course the power was way down, but I figured out how to work around that. And ultimately, the 292 was ridiculous anyway.

The point I want to make is this; the 270 cam, in the 4 years it was in there saved me thousands of gas dollars. Firstly it ran on 87E10 and
secondly, on the hiway it got double the mileage, that the 292 made, and
Thirdly, it was way more fun in the first 2 and 3 gears, and also used way less fuel in Part Throttle operation..

Do the math;
had I kept the 292 cam, and averaged 12 mpgUS (hiway plus city), 100,000 miles will take 8333 gallons.
With the 270 cam, she regularly averaged over 20 mpgUS so that is 5000USG.
The difference over the lifetime of 100,000 miles comes to 3333 gallonsUS.
How much is that in USd? IDK; would it be 3.50 a gallon? If it was, that would be $11,665.5USd
I drove most of those miles in the first 6 years, as she was my DD. I'll estimate 80,000miles in 6 years. That would come to 1555.33USd saved every year.
I cannot tell you how much of that might have been due to the Tight-Q and alloy heads at nearly 11/1 Scr.
But I can tell you that this was a ripper of a street engine, and I could never run 180psi with iron heads. I would still be driving that 270 cam today, if it had not dropped lobes right after an oilchange, which I traced to the disappearance of the ZDDP.

In about 2005, that forced me into a new cam, and I went just one size bigger; a 276/286/110 cam. I got greedy, for a lil more topend . The previous year, I had got me a GVod so I figured the MPGs would not suffer too bad. I was wrong.
Going from 276 exhaust degrees to 286 , dropped power extraction from 110 to 104, which killed hiway economy. and the overlap grew from 53 to 61 which killed the around town PT economy. And no amount of tuning could make it better.
But the top-end rush was back, which I loved; so I retired that combo from DD to weekend warrior. And then, since I had the GVod,I started playing with rear gears again. I ended up really liking 3.55s, but the car was a lil sluggish with the 2.66 low in first gear, and I couldn't drive it below about 6.5 mph. And so I called Jamie at Passon and he found me a 3.09/direct, Commando combo. And I bought his alloy box/sidecover right away too. Well, 3.09 over 2.66s is a 16% increase and I was back in action for first gear, and the bonus was that the new minimum roadspeed was 4.0 with the 3.55s, which previously had taken 4.88s ( yes I really ran 4.88s on the street). So now, parading was on the table.
So what's the point?
Thruout all this, I kept the cylinder pressure pretty much the same (in the range of 183 to 177), by decking and gasket selection. And more importantly, the Squish was kept in the range of .039/.040 , and currently is .034.
So all the changes could be directly compared and "blamed/credited" on/to the camshaft,
which translates to the Ica.
here it comes;
These three, pressure, ratio, and Ica, (and elevation) are intimately connected . And I learned right quick just how intimate that relationship is.
Op, I'm still wishing you nothing but success, whatever pistons you install, and whatever your pressure ends up being.. and I'll be here in the future with everyone else, to help you in any way I can, should you need help.
 
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Cc'ing will give you the chamber volume. Measuring the depth of the chambers give you the quench distance information. You want that distance to be as close as possible from one chamber to the next. Then comes polishing all of the sharp edges and possible hot spots out. You can get pistons much less than 800 bucks with the KB Hyper......but your machinist doesn't like those. And I get that. But he needs to understand that's not the piston's fault. If he did the machine work and filed the rings (or didn't file them) it might be HIS fault. And THAT is something you should think about.

I normally never recommend quench in situations like this because 1) you're somewhat of a novice (no offense we all start somewhere) and 2) you're on a budget. Machining CORRECTLY for quench costs extra money.

Lastly, there's no amount of quench in the world that can save you from detonation in stop and go traffic when it's 95 degrees outside in high humidity if you're on the ragged edge. That's another reason why I don't recommend quench for a street car. You can end up not having a very streetable car if everything isn't perfect.

.....and when have you known anything to be "just perfect"?

Go along with these guys if you want to. It's your project, your money and your choice. But if you end up with something that you can barely drive, it won't be my fault.
Yea I understand what you mean. I do want a streetable car and something I can just jump in and go and not worry about elevation or being able to find a certain gas. I am learning alot and have to make a decision. I'm seriously considering just getting some factory replacement dish pistons i still get in the low 9 compression range and it would be alot cheaper. I'm not really concerned about squeezing every last hp or every single tenth of a second out of it. I would much rather have a streetable drivable car in all weather conditions. I'm at 2300 ft elevation so if I go with 10 and am at 8.3 drc I may be alright here cruising around but what's gonna happen when I drive it to the beach for cruise week? That's what I'm worried about. And I do want something I can do that with I want to be able to jump in and drive it to the beach or the nats or Carlisle without worrying about it. You are absolutely correct about when is anything perfect? I have learned time and time again with this project nothing ever goes as planned and expect the unexpected! Haha I'm gonna measure my head distance and see where I'm at I can always change headgasket to lower compression if needed. If I'm ok with the kb107s and I'm not in that danger quench range than I will buy and run them if I am then i will just buy a lower compression piston and sacrifice some horsepower. Which is basically the exact same thing my machinist said he would do Haha. He is a smart guy. He is probably in his 80s and has built engines his whole life I'm sure he knows what he is doing.
 
My Low Budget has become No Budget, so I know what you mean. I am fortunate that I have some good parts already, but will have to sell some parts, or trade some to get other parts I need, but that is all part of the fun, at least for me.
I know what you mean my low budget 318 build that was supposed to be a re ring and gasket replacement turned into a full out 360 build with pretty much all new parts. Haha if you need anything let me know I dont have alot if extra stuff but what I do have I'd be glad to help you out with. Iv gotten alot of parts on this forum for discounted and free just because there are some awesome guys here.
 
AJ is not wrong in any of his shared experiences. I think what he is trying to say is essentially the same thing as RRR---Build it- it will run and run fine. Build it with attention to the details and it will run exceptional and better than the sum of its parts would suggest. That is all. J.Rob
 
AJ is not wrong in any of his shared experiences. I think what he is trying to say is essentially the same thing as RRR---Build it- it will run and run fine. Build it with attention to the details and it will run exceptional and better than the sum of its parts would suggest. That is all. J.Rob
Yea I agree I love Aj he is a smart dude and obviously knows his stuff.
 
Your machine is just doesn't want anything coming back on him. That's shouldn't be in the mind of a confident machinist.
They're fine, run the top ring @.034 gap, 2nd you can leave alone, but...if you're like some here and are the extra cautious type..you can add a little to theb2nd ring gap as well, like another .010

I've run the 243 version numerous times with the ootb 2nd ring gap around .020-.022
I like to run the skirt clearance around .0025-.003 but no less than .0025 and no more than .004 . Too tight and it runs a lil hotter and and you can scuff the wall/skirt.. too loose and the rings aren't as stable imo and again, scuff come back to play.

Seems to me there was a set on ebay @.060 of the 116cp.
I checked my ring gap today and I'm way off on the top ring I'm getting like .019 so is it ok to file fit a non file ring set? The rings that came with my pistons are listed as non file. Is it ok to go ahead and file them or do I need to order a file fit set?
 
I checked my ring gap today and I'm way off on the top ring I'm getting like .019 so is it ok to file fit a non file ring set? The rings that came with my pistons are listed as non file. Is it ok to go ahead and file them or do I need to order a file fit set?

I've always done it with no ill effects but I'm sure somebody will be along to tell me how stupid I am. My question is why didn't you get file fit to start with?
 
I've always done it with no ill effects but I'm sure somebody will be along to tell me how stupid I am. My question is why didn't you get file fit to start with?
That's what they came with I ordered them as a kit.
 
That's what they came with I ordered them as a kit.

Well that's certainly the best answer I couldda though of. lol do you know how to file rings? There is a correct procedure.
 
Well that's certainly the best answer I couldda though of. lol do you know how to file rings? There is a correct procedure.
That is the true answer haha I have read a lot about it I'm sure I can figure it out lol
What I don't understand is the kb instructions are very clear on the importance of the top ring gap why would they sell them in a kit with fitted rings that dont fit lol
 
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I checked my ring gap today and I'm way off on the top ring I'm getting like .019 so is it ok to file fit a non file ring set? The rings that came with my pistons are listed as non file. Is it ok to go ahead and file them or do I need to order a file fit set?
Go ahead and file it.
 
what rrr said-- here's why and how
with moly rings only file from the ring face toward the center
center out can disloge moly face
or get/borrow a ring grinder
 
what rrr said-- here's why and how
with moly rings only file from the ring face toward the center
center out can disloge moly face
or get/borrow a ring grinder
I thought about buying one a hand crank one is like 65 dollars. But I'm pretty handy with a file so idk if I will need one
 
Only difference between file fit and std. is the sizing...no matter what style you have you have to check and file as needed.
 
Only difference between file fit and std. is the sizing...no matter what style you have you have to check and file as needed.
I know that the gap is critical as far as being too small because the ends will butt together during expansion. But Is there a problem with them being too gapped? Say my goal is .034 and I go a tad over like .035 or .036 will that cause issues?
 
what rrr said-- here's why and how
with moly rings only file from the ring face toward the center
center out can disloge moly face
or get/borrow a ring grinder
Yes moly face can chip off, and filing outward will leave micro flash.

I like to lightly dull off the edges of the gaps filed side as well , with a single pass.
 
I know that the gap is critical as far as being too small because the ends will butt together during expansion. But Is there a problem with them being too gapped? Say my goal is .034 and I go a tad over like .035 or .036 will that cause issues?
No.
But anymore than needed isnt helping you.
 
No.
But anymore than needed isnt helping you.
Ok thanks I was just making sure if I go a tad to far I wasnt ruining my rings. According to my math and using the .008 gap factor that yall recommended that puts me at .032 and some change I think thats gonna be my target if I go over a little I will still be under. 034
 
Yes moly face can chip off, and filing outward will leave micro flash.

I like to lightly dull off the edges of the gaps filed side as well , with a single pass.
What size file do you recommend ? I have an array of hand files I use for gunsmithing. My favorite is a fine flat nicklonson.
 
Too large of an end gap is really not an issue...within reason. It's too small that causes problems.

The end gaps will always align with each other after some miles...not sure why but they do. I'm sure anyone who has disassembled more tha one engine has seen the phenomina.

Hyper pistons like a little more...
 
Thanks guys you all have been a huge help! I am gonna start on gapping them asap hopefully have the short block assembled by next week. Then time to start on the heads. They should take long.
 
I thought about buying one a hand crank one is like 65 dollars. But I'm pretty handy with a file so idk if I will need one
Buy the hand crank one, it is worth the money.
If you were closer, I would loan you one.
 
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