piston questions

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autopar3000 said:
I suspect this is largely because of the kegger. Even a heavily modified one is usually the weak point. EFI M1 was a game changer for me.
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It was the cam. I had the M1 on the 85 Ram with a Thermoquad as the throttle body. SOGGY bottom end, but 3000 to fuel cut off the M1 pulled great. Swapped the kegger onto the Ram when we parked out the Dakota and the kegger fills the bottom end torque hole of the M1 and rips to fuel cut. I feel the modified kegger is done by 52-5300 and the 4bbl single plane M1 goes past 6K that I don't use. The butt-o-meter says there is 40 ft/lbs difference in the below 3K range I use most. The Kegger is actually more fun to drive when I want to see a bad day melt away.
 
I forgot, the Dakota had an M1 2bbl on it when we got it. It stayed until I finished the kegger. It was a torque less mess as well. The M1 I'm sure would run great in the right pkg, but in a 4K plus truck that is a daily it's not the right intake. An A body with a clutch or the right converter/gear combo, it would be perfect.
 
glhs0426 said:
I forgot, the Dakota had an M1 2bbl on it when we got it. It stayed until I finished the kegger. It was a torque less mess as well. The M1 I'm sure would run great in the right pkg, but in a 4K plus truck that is a daily it's not the right intake. An A body with a clutch or the right converter/gear combo, it would be perfect.
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Yeah, agreed that the M1 would not be the best intake for a heavy vehicle with a stock converter. I didn't pay enough attention to the cam you mentioned in that combo. 203 / 208 @ 0.050 would probably peak pretty early.
 
Being that you brought up manifolds for a carbureted magnum
What would you suggest in a 3/4 ton truck w/a stick and 3.55s that tows besides being a daily?
I'm thinking for cam something comparable to a comp 260- comp 268ish only in a roller equivalent.
 
volaredon said:
Being that you brought up manifolds for a carbureted magnum
What would you suggest in a 3/4 ton truck w/a stick and 3.55s that tows besides being a daily?
I'm thinking for cam something comparable to a comp 260- comp 268ish only in a roller equivalent.
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1- airgap
2- hong kong phooey knock off airgap

that's the whole list.

okay, okay, if you can find one and you've got money to burn a M1 dual plane.
 
I know this as a sore subject around here as I was like 2nd in line to borrow that jig that was floating around for a while but would I be better to get these heads drilled for an LA intake and go that route?
 
I have an m1 magnum dual plane id happily sell for a reasonable price. The rpm air gap is so much better everywhere that I can’t bring myself to run the M1. Who wants it?
 
Well since I try to avoid hong kong phooey parts that answers that. I thought Edelbrock had an intake for a carb that was a direct bolt in without drilling the LA pattern into these heads
 
I'm not building a race engine, and I'm building an engine that will probably never see 4500 rpm let alone 6000.... I don't care what it might do at an rpm level it will never see
 
junkyardhero said:
what if i'm a penny pinching nickel dick that doesn't care about 20hp at 6000rpm?
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Well, I am too but I won’t give up what the RPM will do for the cost difference. The rpm is better at every point in the graph. They match in a few spots but the m1 is never better and in some places the rpm is 20lb/ft better. And that was on a 350hp ish engine. On more engine the gain will be more. The list goes like this;

Best to worst
1. RPM Air gap 365/423
2. M1 dual plane 350/400
3. China gap. I’ll have to look for the numbers.
 
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You have got to be kidding me. Who is paying these prices!?!
 
TT5.9mag said:
Well, I am too but I won’t give up what the RPM will do for the cost difference. The rpm is better at every point in the graph. They match in a few spots but the m1 is never better and in some places the rpm is 20lb/ft better. And that was on a 350hp ish engine. On more engine the gain will be more. The list goes like this;

Best to worst
1. RPM Air gap 365/423
2. M1 dual plane 350/400
3. China gap. I’ll have to look for the numbers.
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i think johnny mac reported that the stroker motors were down a good amount with the knock off. but, stroker motor...

your point is valid, though. power is power.

however i think it's a viable alternative for a low HP application where budget is a concern. is it the right choice, no. but given there aren't any real alternatives that's the best choice in that particular situation.
 
junkyardhero said:
i think johnny mac reported that the stroker motors were down a good amount with the knock off. but, stroker motor...

your point is valid, though. power is power.

however i think it's a viable alternative for a low HP application where budget is a concern. is it the right choice, no. but given there aren't any real alternatives that's the best choice in that particular situation.
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I don’t disagree. The cost factor is always there. And I think it’s like $150 difference for 25hp/30tq And that has to be worth it for you. I know for me it’s worth it.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I don’t disagree. The cost factor is always there. And I think it’s like $150 difference for 25hp/30tq And that has to be worth it for you. I know for me it’s worth it.
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if i could source one used in the 300ish range, sure that $150 for hp/tq delta makes all the sense in the world-- especially considering the numbers only get better up higher if i ever wanted to upgrade.

but with new prices in the $500 range, that knock off looks real enticing to my inner dedicated cheapskate
 
junkyardhero said:
if i could source one used in the 300ish range, sure that $150 for hp/tq delta makes all the sense in the world-- especially considering the numbers only get better up higher if i ever wanted to upgrade.

but with new prices in the $500 range, that knock off looks real enticing to my inner dedicated cheapskate
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Ok I won’t tell you what I’m selling my M1 for.

:rofl: :rofl:
 
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