piston ring seal or rering

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jimjimjimmy

jimjimjimmy

lobsterman
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i know for a 416 with less than 1500 miles on it. it was pro built by a highly respected mopar shop. the car was sold and shiped it was moved from several trucks while being shiped short starts and idleing when the car came the engine was loaded with fuel it still ran .we cleaned the engine out by a 2500 to 3000 rpm for 10 min or so now this new engine burns oil about 100 miles to a quart or so it dont seem to smoke that much tho . will these rings reseal or need to be replaced.
 
It doesnt matter who built it. If the engine wasn't properly fired intially or the carb washed the rings out, they're done. There is no way to seat them after that. The only way would be to replace them.
 
sound like i may have to try that bon ami stuff, where i can i find it? my 99 ram never burned any oil, then after i changed the heads and intake (ported another pair of heads and but new valve seals in em and lapped the valve, and did the kegger mod on the intake) and now it burns oil, not too bad but is annoying having to keep checking the oil. also it says to dump a lil bon ami down the carb, but my ram is direct port fuel injection, would it work by putting it in the throttle body or would it just sit in the bottom of the keg intake?
 
Hey spikekid999, check this out! Hughes sells this for magnum engines, and it kind of sounds like what you are experiencing. HUG 7720 "Fits All 1993-2003 V8 Magnum Engines
Attention Magnum Truck Owners!
Tired of the gasket blowing out on your plenum cover? Engine pinging under acceleration? Using an excessive amount of oil? Notice that your mileage is dropping? Don't want to weld the cover to the intake? Worried about turning up the boost on your supercharger? This is the answer! This kit will replace the plenum plate with a one piece, high strength, 1/4" thick aluminum plate."

Sorry to hijack the thread...carry on.
 
i would like to hear more comments on this subject and on the bon ami . it would be a shame to crack this new engine. would a leakdown test tell me anything or is it an oilring failure if all else fails might just try the bon ami but would like to know more
 
metallidart said:
Hey spikekid999, check this out! Hughes sells this for magnum engines, and it kind of sounds like what you are experiencing. HUG 7720 "Fits All 1993-2003 V8 Magnum Engines
Attention Magnum Truck Owners!
Tired of the gasket blowing out on your plenum cover? Engine pinging under acceleration? Using an excessive amount of oil? Notice that your mileage is dropping? Don't want to weld the cover to the intake? Worried about turning up the boost on your supercharger? This is the answer! This kit will replace the plenum plate with a one piece, high strength, 1/4" thick aluminum plate."

Sorry to hijack the thread...carry on.
Click to expand...

yup, know all about that, but i just replaced that gasket when i modded the intake (cut the runners down), so i know it aint that, i've read that when the plenum gasket goes, it'll ping and lack of power, and my engine dont ping and has plenty of power, so im thinking its the rings:banghead:
 
moper said:
It doesnt matter who built it. If the engine wasn't properly fired intially or the carb washed the rings out, they're done. There is no way to seat them after that. The only way would be to replace them.
Click to expand...

X2 Pull it out, tear it down and inspect.
 
I know about the "old farmers tricks". They work fantastic on John Deeres and high mileage tired stock stuff. If you want a performance engine to perform, dumping anything down the carb, in the fuel tank, or down the valve cover into the crank case is not going to do any more than bandaid it. It's all fresh. Fix it. A leak down will tell you a lot, yes. Not a compression test, a leak down. It's easy to do, you don't need the block re-honed if it was done decently. You just need some good file-to-fit rings, the gaskets, and some time. Then it's repaired.
 
!!!! DO NOT !!!! under any conditions dump "Bon Ami" or ANY OTHER abrasive down your engine

This so called "remedy" has been around since I can remember, and I'm 63. It didn't work then and it doesn't work now.

If **** like this worked, it would be on every parts store shelf in the world, and published in every shop manual and Motors Manuals
 
Be sure to check the intake seal. I would pull the intake and look for oil in the runners. Were the heads milled at all? I would not put too much stock in so called pro built either. I have seen a lot of so called professional work that was less then impressive. Sounds like rings never seated, could be anything from over rich during break in, to improper bore finish. If its using a low tension ring package bore finish is pretty important.
 
here are a few details pistons are ross 99786 ring end gap is top .018 second .014. piston to c cyl wall .005 the rings are total seal cr7590-35 and the oil ring tension is 32 lbs this engine was dyno run at 512 hp and 516 tq
 
The old Bon Ami trick has been around from the flathead days. Don't do it you may end up with more problems than rings not sealing. You can't dump an abrasive in your engine and fix anything.
 
IMO, the 2nd ring gap is too tight. This will cause pressure buildup between the rings, and push the top ring off the ring land and lose ring seal. The piston to wall is a little lose although Ross tends to like that but that will exascerbate the pressure problem because the piston can rock more, and that affects ring-to wall sealing.
What I would suggest is pull it apart, use green scotchbrite on a square stone flex hone and WD40 to clean up the walls. That removes basically nothing but leaves a surface moly rings will seat wuicly to. Then get a fresh set of rings and gap them to .018 and .022.
 
moper said:
I know about the "old farmers tricks". They work fantastic on John Deeres and high mileage tired stock stuff. If you want a performance engine to perform, dumping anything down the carb, in the fuel tank, or down the valve cover into the crank case is not going to do any more than bandaid it. It's all fresh. Fix it. A leak down will tell you a lot, yes. Not a compression test, a leak down. It's easy to do, you don't need the block re-honed if it was done decently. You just need some good file-to-fit rings, the gaskets, and some time. Then it's repaired.
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
!!!! DO NOT !!!! under any conditions dump "Bon Ami" or ANY OTHER abrasive down your engine

This so called "remedy" has been around since I can remember, and I'm 63. It didn't work then and it doesn't work now.

If **** like this worked, it would be on every parts store shelf in the world, and published in every shop manual and Motors Manuals
Click to expand...
Come on now guys.....snake oil is the answer to everything....remember the days when that STP honey was the answer to it all??
 
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