PLEASE HELP IM IN DIRE STRAIGHTSNo spark MSD but test fine what am i missing!
- Thread starter J.B.
- Start date
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I think I follow you ...and yes. Do you have a volt meter?
Yes and a test light
not just a constant....but minimum of a full 12 volts. The voltage will drop to below 12 volts on the "run" circuit when cranking. That is why you cannot just hook to it. And the cranking circuit is only hot when you are cranking the ignition. That is why they need tied together.
On brown and on blue?
yes...what volt reading do you have (separately)...when the ignition is in run and when cranking the ignition
Will do it tomorrow morning and let you know
On our Mopar ignition switches there are 3 separate terminals for starting and running.
IGN 1 is the run cir
IGN 2 is the ballast bypass cir
START is the cir that triggered the starter relay.
IGN 1 feed 12v to the ballast resister when the engine is running.
IGN 2 feeds 12v to the coil side of the ballast resister during starting
START feeds 12v to the starter relay
If you remove the ballast resister IGN 1 and IGN 2 need to be tied together.
For a test.
Disconnect the yellow ( on a 67) wire from the starter relay.
With the key in the run position you should have 12v to the ignition switch side of the ballast resister or the wire that was attached to the ballast resister.
With the key in the start position you should have 12v at the coil side of the ballast resister or the wire that was on the coil side of the ballast resister.
The yellow START wire should not be used for anything else that the starter relay.
Hope this makes sense.
Just trying to rule out incorrect wiring.
IGN 1 is the run cir
IGN 2 is the ballast bypass cir
START is the cir that triggered the starter relay.
IGN 1 feed 12v to the ballast resister when the engine is running.
IGN 2 feeds 12v to the coil side of the ballast resister during starting
START feeds 12v to the starter relay
If you remove the ballast resister IGN 1 and IGN 2 need to be tied together.
For a test.
Disconnect the yellow ( on a 67) wire from the starter relay.
With the key in the run position you should have 12v to the ignition switch side of the ballast resister or the wire that was attached to the ballast resister.
With the key in the start position you should have 12v at the coil side of the ballast resister or the wire that was on the coil side of the ballast resister.
The yellow START wire should not be used for anything else that the starter relay.
Hope this makes sense.
Just trying to rule out incorrect wiring.
Will do
Perfect
Remove the green wire and cap it.
You'll need to figure out what the previous owner did there. That's an F_Up.
The heavy black wire connection is better on the engine but it should work as drawn.
The MSD 6 unless they've got junky will start with far less than 12 Volts. Go place a voltmeter on a battery when starting and you'll see what it draws down to under the load of the solenoid and starter. if its 10 Volts, that's still decent. If its 9 Volts - the battery is weak.
Green Wire is likely the alternator field wire that connects to the regulator.
If it is connected to the alternator's field terminal, and the wire is grounded, the field will draw maximum current and there will be problems. At best there will be system over voltage and some things will burn out.
Check both ends and make sure they are connected.
Then make sure the battery is charged on a charger - because if it was low, and then the alternator is running, the battery will suck a ton of current. You'll see that on the ammeter (aka alternator gage). If that gage pegs, shut down. If that gage shows halfway in either direction and doesn't head back toward zero in a minute or two, shut down.
You'll need to figure out what the previous owner did there. That's an F_Up.
The heavy black wire connection is better on the engine but it should work as drawn.
The MSD 6 unless they've got junky will start with far less than 12 Volts. Go place a voltmeter on a battery when starting and you'll see what it draws down to under the load of the solenoid and starter. if its 10 Volts, that's still decent. If its 9 Volts - the battery is weak.
Green Wire is likely the alternator field wire that connects to the regulator.
If it is connected to the alternator's field terminal, and the wire is grounded, the field will draw maximum current and there will be problems. At best there will be system over voltage and some things will burn out.
Check both ends and make sure they are connected.
Then make sure the battery is charged on a charger - because if it was low, and then the alternator is running, the battery will suck a ton of current. You'll see that on the ammeter (aka alternator gage). If that gage pegs, shut down. If that gage shows halfway in either direction and doesn't head back toward zero in a minute or two, shut down.
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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The Regulator supply wire should be blue, same supply as the blue out of the bulkhead. In your drawing, it is labeled "green". But the green on an isolated field alternator goes back to the regulator, which controls the field strength.
My guess is that if the regulator is actually hooked up backwards, it is grounding the the supply line, and thus the MSD has no supply.
I'm guessing that if you disconnect either of the alternator brushes, it will fire right up.
OOps,
Mattax's drawing shows exactly what I'm talking about.
My guess is that if the regulator is actually hooked up backwards, it is grounding the the supply line, and thus the MSD has no supply.
I'm guessing that if you disconnect either of the alternator brushes, it will fire right up.
OOps,
Mattax's drawing shows exactly what I'm talking about.
Yes its actually connected to the blue field wire in alternator the prevous owner used a green wire to connect.
****Update she starts immediately after 2 things. I adjusted the magnetic pickup and cut away the field terminal tie in that was going to msd. What is a good alternator charging voltag from the battery terminal on alternator
~13.6 volts
Im not getting anything out of alternator so probably need a new one or voltage regulator?
The running voltage should be between 13.9 and 14.8 depending on temperature.
It should not increase in with rpm.
It should be the same everywhere in the main feeds.
Just as important is the battery draw or discharge. The ammeter should be at zero (centered) most of the time. It should show slight discharge during start, and charging after start.
It should not increase in with rpm.
It should be the same everywhere in the main feeds.
Just as important is the battery draw or discharge. The ammeter should be at zero (centered) most of the time. It should show slight discharge during start, and charging after start.
Charging voltage with engine running should be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts if memory serves. I went through some of the same issues with my Dart Sport and the po wiring job. Finally downloaded a copy of MSD's instructions and rewired the entire system, no more problems.
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