Please help me identify a cure! (Bodywork Newbie here)

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JeffisOld

JeffisOld

Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
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The area in the image below is the lip above the firewall,

DotFirewallCorr.jpg


The image below is the trunkwall inside,

DotTrkSide.jpg


When I have removed all the visible red corrosion there are little black lines continuing into the steel that is obviously corrosion. How to I actually STOP the corrosion without cutting out all the steel?

The plan has been to use POR-15 on the areas like the inside of the trunk andvthen topcoat accordingly. There are areas like the lip above the firewall that I was planning to use SubLime Green Sherwin Williams body color. Undecided on 1k or 2K paint yet though. As you can see the trunk lip is another area that makes me sweat! The corners of the rear glass will be replaced with AMD patch panels I bought in PA at the show. I am hoping a newb like me can make this happen successfully. I have many times in my life been told I have more balls than brains, I just hope I have not overloaded my *** with my alligator mouth.

Please help!

At least offer me a painless method of suicide. Thanks
 
x2 on Rust-Mort. I have used it on my 69 383-S and my current 71 Barracuda build. Great stuff. Rod
 
Rust-Mort or Ospho. Ospho can usually be had at a local Ace or True value for about $12./qt. Very similar products but I like the Ospho a little better. It looks pretty rough from here though. The cowl has perforations so it really needs some metal replacement and where the quarter laps the trunk trough there's no good way to get in there short of peeling it apart. I think the rust products help but they are not a cure all. Hate to see you do a bunch of work and 6 moths later it's bubbling back up again.
 
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That's exactly my point George. I do not want to waste the time or $ either.

Is there no way to stop that area without cut/patch?

I am getting this panel welding thing figgered out anyways.

Practice, Practice, Practice!
 
JeffisOld said:
That's exactly my point George. I do not want to waste the time or $ either.

Is there no way to stop that area without cut/patch?

I am getting this panel welding thing figgered out anyways.

Practice, Practice, Practice!
Click to expand...
welding a new piece in is the best way. Get back into solid metal and weld a piece or patch in.
 
The trunk gutters would be first for me. Looks like the cancer is spreading up to the quarters. Once they get holes in them rain just pours in the trunk then it's all downhill......
AMD makes replacements.
 
Same with the cowl, as moparmandan said. Cut out the thin stuff. If it was me, I'd drill out all the spot welds and remove the cowl. There's more trouble in there.
 
I have just found the trunk gutter 6 piece set for $199.00 from AMD. Will order them in the AM as soon as I make a phone call to find out if that covers the entire trunk circumference. Does anyone know?
 
I'd need a close up look at the cowl, and I'd want to inspect the backside of all of it, especially the areas around the vent boxes and drains. From the picture I have a hard time seeing if that's just deep pitting, or if it actually has pin holes. If there's pin holes it has to go. If it's deeply pitted but not pin holed yet, well, I'll say it should go and leave it at that. Pulling the whole cowl apart is a big job. As for the adhesives, well, I wouldn't use panel adhesives on a car that was designed to be welded, just like I wouldn't try welding on a car meant to be put together with adhesives. Unless you're going to run an FEA on one of these chassis to find out if a panel adhesive is really suitable for the joints you want to use it on, and which one is up to the task.

The trunk gutter is shot, and definitely needs to be replaced. You'll probably have to replace some of the metal on the quarter side of that joint too by the looks of things.
 
For our 73 Scamp, 1970 Dart parts worked best. Then we just used what we needed to replace the bad spots. Leaving as much good metal as possible gives you a line and something to tack weld to. BTW I am an total amateur at bodywork. I only fix glaring issues. Probably not the right way. Please be advised to get a good second opinion.
 
Panel bonding adhesives should not be used on structural components which is stated on the packaging. I have re-repaired enough vehicles that have been glued together to know that they blow apart in a subsequent hit. Have also seen bedsides and roofs pop loose. The 4 little spot welds they recommend is not going to hold the panel on the car. It works well if used in a weld/bond technique with a welding machine with enough clamping pressure to get the job done but not as a stand alone method of repair. Always repair with the same methods the car was built with. The cowl section popping loose in a side hit would be a bad day for the occupants.

Every piece of a unibody is structural including the quarters. When glued panels let loose the cars just collapse. Structural integrity and safety first.
 
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Tack them in jumping around a lot so as not to warp anything. Fill in between the tacks with about a thousand more tack welds. Grind smooth. Putty it up. Great spot to learn since it's hidden when the trunk is closed.
 
s-l640.jpg

What I used. Six pieces The front is part of the rear deck I think.
 
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That's exactly what I was planning to buy in the morning.

Did that do the entire circumference of the trunk sir?

Thank you Dan!
 
Jeff:
No just the front corners and sides. The very front part of the gutter is actually part of the rear widow deck. Ours didn't need it as the worst rust was on the sides. But you could buy it and just cut out and use what you need. Which is what I did on the sides. Saves a lot of fab time. Hope this makes sence.

AMD-650-1370_xl.jpg

Wait wrong picture I think.......
 
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Here it is. Rear deck filler panel. See the gutter at the bottom of the pic. Kinda pricey to cut up.......
s-l400.jpg
 
Makes perfect sense Dan thank you. I know my sides and front corners are the worst. Obviously the corners would be the hardest to form. I am just hoping that enough of the straight sections will be included. If I need more I may resort to cutting up a Duster laying around that my brother and I have been pilfering if the profile is the same.

Thanks for your help Dan and everyone else that responded.

This little car is really helping me improve my metal skills. Gotta make it strong enough to hold up to 512 cubic inches of fun though.

This is what retirement's all about and I am blessed enough to enjoy it. Love it!
 
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