aaronk785
Well-Known Member
65cc
6077 EDELBROCK/ OOTB, I think are 63cc’s.And how big of combustion chamber?
The pistons are sealed power hyp. 405cp., @rumblefish360
I have all the usual mopar books but all the set ups they advise are antiquated cams if 1.6 rockers would be a better set up the so be it.
On the money. Same with the carburetor needing almost no changes. Up the compression a point or 2 and see what happens...and what rpm did it peak?
What lsa?
Oh man! I remember that thread. I thought it was a good one showing excellent results with a small cam.
Antiquated? Hummmm, the grinds maybe old but they still work. So, IMO, antiquated doesn’t quite fit. Old? Yes.
But what the book is showing you now is the parts used to do the job but you’ll have to make modern part choices. Here is a good few examples.
MP says to figure can duration @ .050 it is the advertised duration multiplied by .850. Your choice of a more modern cam now has a lead in duration to look for.
I’d advise in what ever duration you use, get as much lift as the head can handle. I’d look at 108 C lines. On most of the MP cams, I’d run the 1.6 to quicken the action on the rocker/valve opening rate. It’s not always needed. It’s not a must. Lift has a direct impact on HP, if your head support the addition lift.
Example #2;
MP suggested to use there 6 pack intake set up for best results in those bracket tips there to perform in. There is one big problem with that idea, that’s expense.
A RPM-AG is what you would substitute and a carb to fit.
You have to remember that the 6 pack was the best and ultimate dual plane intake manifold ever available.
Even when they suggested to use there single plane, I’d still take a hard look at the dual plane and double check the cars weight. If the car was very light, it would be the single plane.
Your welcome Sir! That rpm intake is IMO the most bad *** dual plane intake out today. It should be good enough to carry you to the low 11’s. Port match it as deep as you can go.thank you sir I will look at the Larry sheapherd book again and look over the six pack set up that may work for me and substitute it for air gap and 750 dp. Carb.
Nothing magical just wanted a decent driver that’s not a dedicated race car. I think those number for me are realistic with the parts and budget I had in mind? I’m always open to opinions and suggestions I normally don’t post much on here but do value the knowledge of the people on this site , I live in south Florida so I get to also enjoy car shows year round.
Post 24???OBTW.... you can always change the cam!
I guess I am slow to catch on.... LOLPost 24???
Maybe lost 17 or 19?
Thanks for the mention. If it was the 230@050, that would be max size for this. My wife’s Hyd. roller @ 224@050 is probably more in line.
You hit the nail on the head! Everyone has a different idea what is best. THey all work but work differently for different situations. No magic bullet cam.I guess I am slow to catch on.... LOL
The other thing that impacts this is that the idea of 'cruising' and 'street' is different for different folks. If the idea is bursts of hard acceleration between stop lights in a straight line and the feel of being pressed hard into the seat, then something more aggressive in the cam and TC stall and gearing is probably called for. That is the hard part of advising folks on these matters: you gotta get inside their heads and understand what they truly want.
The OP is from the Miami area.... flat and lots of straight boulevards, so that is not at all like the mountains that I drive in, which is a different animal for hard driving. So my formula might not be the best for what he wants. Maybe the OP can chime in and say a bit more of what he likes in driving....