guys bought a plug and play and can't get it to work,, 4 guys looked at it and no luck,,changed coils and no luck,,2 say i'm missing a piece,, the car has push button start, close to putting duel point back if i can't get to work,,,,,,,,
plug and play not working
- Thread starter cowest432
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I have no idea, none, not one clue what a "plug and play" might be.............
So we need more info
Photos are always good
Link? to what you bought is always good.
And............what means "car?"
So we need more info
Photos are always good
Link? to what you bought is always good.
And............what means "car?"
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I can type that too, see?
"plug and play"
MORE INFO
Who made it?
Where did you get it?
Link?
Link to destructions?
piccures? pichures? fotos? potos? photoes? Photatoes?
RUSTY!!! Where is that crystal ball!!!
How is it wired?
Did you make voltage checks?
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Do you mean the "ready-to-run HEI distributor" made in China? If so, many posts here and works for most people. Just need to connect 12 V ignition to the red wire, and ground the black, I recall and wire the output to preferably an E-core coil (can buy from same vendors).
Regardless, for any distributor, do you have a spark tester? Did you try spinning it by hand off the car and verify you get a spark? I always do that before wearing out the starter endlessly cranking.
Regardless, for any distributor, do you have a spark tester? Did you try spinning it by hand off the car and verify you get a spark? I always do that before wearing out the starter endlessly cranking.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Red to coil (+), Black wire goes to coil (-), bypass balast resistor. Re-clock rotor to #1, because drive lug is off by 90 degrees from OEM.
You guys are good at mind reading.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Where to you connect the white and green?
They go to the now by-passed ballast resister
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Not sure if I can see ignition supply to coil +. Coil connector picture is not in view.
Do not ground the black and yellow wire!! The ignition module drives that. Just connect yellow to black, insulate. Follow schematic.
If you want a ground, ground distributor body. That makes good ground when adjusting timing, when hold down bolt is loose.
Where is your coil to cap plug wire? Vacuum hose to ported carb port and vacuum advance?
Do not ground the black and yellow wire!! The ignition module drives that. Just connect yellow to black, insulate. Follow schematic.
If you want a ground, ground distributor body. That makes good ground when adjusting timing, when hold down bolt is loose.
Where is your coil to cap plug wire? Vacuum hose to ported carb port and vacuum advance?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Well Dave your crystal ball is working much better than mine.
WHAT IS THE YELLOW and what else is hooked to "whatever that is?"
You say "neg side of the coil?" The neg side of the coil is NOT ground!!!!
The black from the distributor hooks to the neg side of the coil. Look at the damn diagram. It does not say to ground the black.............the coil neg, does it? No.
WHAT IS THE YELLOW and what else is hooked to "whatever that is?"
You say "neg side of the coil?" The neg side of the coil is NOT ground!!!!
The black from the distributor hooks to the neg side of the coil. Look at the damn diagram. It does not say to ground the black.............the coil neg, does it? No.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
I died once, and am good at OBE. It is a blessing and a curse. I hit my head all the time, because my feeling is as a point in space. The good is, when in a car, I know where that is.
thanks for help,, i don't know a thing about this DIST or hook up,, i relied on others to hook it up as i am members on this site for help,,, i can see that was a bad idea [67dart] my mistake,, thanks for all who did try to help
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Your schematic tells all. Follow that. My comments are also correct and confirmed by 67Dart273.
I have also installed a unit for test, but was disappointed with the advance curve for my 273. Might work with some engines. For me too little mechanical advance total, but it came on too quick. Needs more upper end advance. Vacuum advance is too much, and not adjustable. It would run the car, but not optimal, better than worn points.
I have also installed a unit for test, but was disappointed with the advance curve for my 273. Might work with some engines. For me too little mechanical advance total, but it came on too quick. Needs more upper end advance. Vacuum advance is too much, and not adjustable. It would run the car, but not optimal, better than worn points.
Rustedwrench
Well-Known Member
Man, you are not giving anybody the ability to help you. You say the yellow wire is connected to the coil and you do not show that? I assume you mean the replacement coil. Why would anybody ground a coil? Makes no sense.
Look at the diagram. It has constant voltage to the coil + and the red wire to the distributor from the ignition switch with the key in the run position. The black wire from the distributor goes to the coil -. That is it. Done. No ballast resistor. No ground wire. The distributor body is grounded to the engine. It can not be any simpler.
If four other guys looked at the car and can not figure it out something is wrong. Either the diagram does not match the distributor or something is fried. Nobody involved has any business opening the hood or picking up a tool.
:banghead:
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If you want help here you are going to have to help us help you. We cannot "imagine" what you have and when someone ASKS you something, there is a reason.
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