Plug-and-Play Wiring Harness

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67 Barracuda FstBk that I am looking at wiring system. Since I pulled everything out of the inside of the car including carpet as well as everything in the engine bay, I figured a good time to just rewire the whole car while everything is more easily accessed. Ounce of prevention vs pound of cure, right.
One real good way to rehab existing harnesses is to lay them out on a plywood board.
There's a few threads here by members who have done that. here's one with a couple photos

I had the instrument panel harness out of my '67 and just laid it out on the workbench. There was just a few things that needed fixing. The only thing that's a little stressful with that harness is there is very little extra in the wiring for strain relief. So in some places I had to splice in to be sure I didn't cause a mechanical strain.
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Anyway I am looking at the American Autowire kit# 510603. I kinda like the idea of the GM style bulkhead with the bolt connecting the interior fuse block to engine bay instead of just snap fasteners/connectors. I was wondering if anyone had actually installed one of these personally? Any issues they ran into?
If you want to do that, the folks who have done such things are answering that.
Just be aware that the Chrysler wiring was the traditional approach. Alternator output feeds the car first, any battery recharging second. Bonus was no fusible link needed on the supply line from the alternator.
My car is a 4spd, so wasn't sure if the kit may be for a column shift automatic or 3spd std on column. Mopar may not have ever made a 3 on the tree but just thought I would ask.
Yes, but I'm not sure if a Barracuda could be ordered that way in '67.

Four speed manual transmission does make a difference although is not difficult to alter the reverse light to the 4 speed circuit.
There's a couple threads where we unwind that mystery - I can dig them up if you want.

The harnesses are as follows:
Engine bay - that pretty much covers everything except - Battery cable & starter solenoid harness and the neutral safety wire.
There was an engine bay harness without the optional tach wire but the M&H repops (when I bought) had it regardless. ('67 only)
Instrument panel - that covers everything behind the panel including the fusebox and the door switches.
- If the car was equiped with a center console that had a sub harness.
Body - this connects in the drivers kick panel and will cover the dome or courtesy lights and connect back to the tail lights, back up lights, fuel tank sender.

The 67 Barracuda supplement has the rally dash and the fast back body diagrams.
Even a bigger help IMO for working on the harnesses was the factory assembly drawings. I found those helpful with routing and support etc in spite of the poor quality of the publication.

A lot of phtos and examples of the assembly drawings here if you are interested
 
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I forgot to mention. Windshield wiper motor for '67 brings its only special mysteries. Best we can figure there were four possible motors that a car could come with. Only one of those uses all 4 wires shown on the factory diagram. There's a couple threads here where we crowd sourced the various motors and their wiring.
 
One real good way to rehab existing harnesses is to lay them out on a plywood board.
There's a few threads here by members who have done that. here's one with a couple photos

I had the instrument panel harness out of my '67 and just laid it out on the workbench. There was just a few things that needed fixing. The only thing that's a little stressful with that harness is there is very little extra in the wiring for strain relief. So in some places I had to splice in to be sure I didn't cause a mechanical strain.
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If you want to do that, the folks who have done such things are answering that.
Just be aware that the Chrysler wiring was the traditional approach. Alternator output feeds the car first, any battery recharging second. Bonus was no fusible link needed on the supply line from the alternator.

Yes, but I'm not sure if a Barracuda could be ordered that way in '67.

Four speed manual transmission does make a difference although is not difficult to alter the reverse light to the 4 speed circuit.
There's a couple threads where we unwind that mystery - I can dig them up if you want.

The harnesses are as follows:
Engine bay - that pretty much covers everything except - Battery cable & starter solenoid harness and the neutral safety wire.
There was an engine bay harness without the optional tach wire but the M&H repops (when I bought) had it regardless. ('67 only)
Instrument panel - that covers everything behind the panel including the fusebox and the door switches.
- If the car was equiped with a center console that had a sub harness.
Body - this connects in the drivers kick panel and will cover the dome or courtesy lights and connect back to the tail lights, back up lights, fuel tank sender.

The 67 Barracuda supplement has the rally dash and the fast back body diagrams.
Even a bigger help IMO for working on the harnesses was the factory assembly drawings. I found those helpful with routing and support etc in spite of the poor quality of the publication.

A lot of phtos and examples of the assembly drawings here if you are interested
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They did make '67 Barracudas with a 3 speed column shift. All the ones I've seen were slant 6 cars, but, maybe they made a 273 version? I got a new engine/front end and dash harness from M&H through Year One for my '66 Barracuda, and it does not come with the tach wiring....at least mine didn't. Some wires were not the stock color code either. Other wires that aren't included in the engine/front/rear or dash harnesses are the A/C wiring, convertible top wiring, and some of the interior lighting wires. Same goes for switches, sockets, and other items with the wiring pigtail attached to them.
 
'67 is unique in that the tach wire was in the harness and used the bulkhead connector. '68 & 69 the tach wire went through a grommet on the firewall.
 
when I did my 69 barracuda, there were separate wiring harnesses for ac, transmission, wipers, and probably more. That really drove the price up. some of the 2 or 3 wire ones were ridiculously expensive. I think I made a couple of simpler ones.
 
Thanks everyone for the information and options. I have pulled the engine bay harness out of the car (After Photos Taken!). Have not pulled dash or other harnesses yet. Engine bay harness looks pretty ratty with a lot of cracked insulation and frayed wires. Appreciate all of the tips as well. Mattax appreciate the link to previous post.
 
Might be worth buying a new engine bay harness with so many wires in such condition.
I will suggest keeping the original for reference and parts. They roll up and will fit in a med small box. I'm glad I saved mine. New one was great for a 10 years or so but then it needed a few repairs.

A modifications that may be worthwhile depending on your intended use of the car.
Headlight relay harness. While I made mine permanent, no need to do that. It can be made plug and play.
If you're not driving it at night, don't bother. But if you are, then the relays allow a more direct connection from the alternator to the headlights. (The factory wiring was OK with the original 40 / 50 W lamps. Its not really up to the task for anything above that.) Bonus of the relays is that the 9-10 amps for the headlights will not be added to the alternator output wire going through the multiconnector. [You can make a relay harness using a kit from Daniel Stern, or a plug and play by contacting FABO member Crackedback]
 
I thought the M&H engine harness was reasonably priced compared to other ones.
Heck when I bought the one for my '67s engine bay, Year One was dominating the one stop shopping for this sort of stuff. Evans might have been making harnesses at that time but I too thought the price for the M&H at YO was pretty reasonable.
 
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