Plug readers

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Here is another run with a couple of WOT runs. What ya think now? Took 2* out of the total. Again two different plug heat ranges.

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I can see the metal peppering on the center wire. You are pretty close. Maybe pull 2 degrees of total out of it because the heat mark on the ground strap is right at the shell.

Also, you need to make a WOT pull and see where the fuel ring is.

They look pretty good.
The heat mark would need to be in the middle of the ground strap?
 
Here is another run with a couple of WOT runs. What ya think now? Took 2* out of the total. Again two different plug heat ranges.

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From what you can see in a picture, the bottom plug looks the best, with the exception of maybe WOT. I can't see a fuel ring down there. If it's there and it's .060-.080 or even .100 wide you are close.

Then you need a real quality spark plug reading magnifying tool and start looking at the face of the center wire and the edges of the ground wire. On some plugs you can see some "cement boil" where the center wire goes through the porcelain.

You may be able to get a bit more intial, or get it pulling timing a bit quicker, but you are close.


Edit: I changed my mind. The timing looks pretty spanky in the bottom plug.
 
@yellow rose
Here is a pic of the bottom plug from above. Looks like there may be a fuel ring, it’s faint however. Not sure how pronounced it should be.
And as for “spanky” I take that you mean ok. As always I appreciate all the input and help.

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@yellow rose
Here is a pic of the bottom plug from above. Looks like there may be a fuel ring, it’s faint however. Not sure how pronounced it should be.
And as for “spanky” I take that you mean ok. As always I appreciate all the input and help.

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I wish I could figure out how to draw on a picture. You can start to see a faint ring right at the bottom of the porcelain where it meets that square part of the porcelain.

You are to the point you need to start making clean cut plug reads. A 1/4 mile is better than an 1/8th, but both work.

You need to cut the engine clean off at the end of a full pass. Don't lift when making the pass. Cut it clean off. Also, make sure you don't lock the steering column up and crash the car (seen that happen and it wasn't good). If nothing else, chop the throttle at the end of the run and let it idle until you get off the track and onto the return road and then shut it off.

Then you can start looking at the fuel ring. I don't remember what carb you have, but if it's a Holley, and you are tuning for WOT, do not change the main jets, change the size of the hole in the power valve channel restriction. You have the cruise tune pretty close and you do that with the main jets. WOT is with the power valve channel restriction.
 
I wish I could figure out how to draw on a picture. You can start to see a faint ring right at the bottom of the porcelain where it meets that square part of the porcelain.

You are to the point you need to start making clean cut plug reads. A 1/4 mile is better than an 1/8th, but both work.

You need to cut the engine clean off at the end of a full pass. Don't lift when making the pass. Cut it clean off. Also, make sure you don't lock the steering column up and crash the car (seen that happen and it wasn't good). If nothing else, chop the throttle at the end of the run and let it idle until you get off the track and onto the return road and then shut it off.

Then you can start looking at the fuel ring. I don't remember what carb you have, but if it's a Holley, and you are tuning for WOT, do not change the main jets, change the size of the hole in the power valve channel restriction. You have the cruise tune pretty close and you do that with the main jets. WOT is with the power valve channel restriction.
Thanks I really appreciate your input. I probably should have prefaced that this is a street car that may never actually get any track time. So being able to do a 1/4 and shutting off etc is not a reality for me. If I do I will certainly do as you have advised. That being said, would you think I’m in the ballpark to put some real miles on the car as it is?
 
Thanks I really appreciate your input. I probably should have prefaced that this is a street car that may never actually get any track time. So being able to do a 1/4 and shutting off etc is not a reality for me. If I do I will certainly do as you have advised. That being said, would you think I’m in the ballpark to put some real miles on the car as it is?


Yep. You may be very close at WOT too, but at this point until you beat on it a bit, we won't know for sure.

If you have your foot in it, and it starts laying over or acting not normal, get out of it and pull the plugs and see what you have.
 
Yep. You may be very close at WOT too, but at this point until you beat on it a bit, we won't know for sure.

If you have your foot in it, and it starts laying over or acting not normal, get out of it and pull the plugs and see what you have.
Sweet! Looking forward to driving this car, taking on some reliability runs and beating her up a bit over the next few months before the heat here makes it miserable to drive any distance. I really do appreciate the time you have taken to explain what’s happening and the process to get there. The knowledge you have shared has not been wasted! :thankyou:
 
Update: took her on a run on the freeway, up to the lake then a casual cruise through the valley. 130 miles warm in the mid 80’s Ran great! Did try some Torco Accelerator fuel additive @1.6oz/gal of 91 to get by their chart 95 octane. Put in a couple of fresh plugs (different heat ranges) and here are the after cruise pics.
Plug 1

thoughts?

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Remind me what ignition you have. The plugs look like you have the timing pretty well covered, except maybe you can add a skosh more initial but no more total.

If you have points and no ignition box, that may be as good as it gets. If you have some form of electronic ignition, it’s still a bit rich at idle and cruise. I can’t see the WOT ring in the bottom of the plug so I can’t say.

Heat range may be one step cold. BTW, remind me what engine and heads you have. That’s a short reach plug.
 
Remind me what ignition you have. The plugs look like you have the timing pretty well covered, except maybe you can add a skosh more initial but no more total.

If you have points and no ignition box, that may be as good as it gets. If you have some form of electronic ignition, it’s still a bit rich at idle and cruise. I can’t see the WOT ring in the bottom of the plug so I can’t say.

Heat range may be one step cold. BTW, remind me what engine and heads you have. That’s a short reach plug.

It has MSD pro billet with streetfire box. 20* at idle and 34* all in at 3000.

440 with 915 heads mild porting and polished chambers.

Which plugs looked better? There are two different heat ranges there. First set of pics cooler plugs.

I do have a 10* bushing that I could theoretically get 24* initial with a total of 34* or I maybe I could speed up the curve a bit to get some in sooner?
And btw there were no WOT runs in this cruise.
(Was with the wife) :lol:
 
It has MSD pro billet with streetfire box. 20* at idle and 34* all in at 3000.

440 with 915 heads mild porting and polished chambers.

Which plugs looked better? There are two different heat ranges there. First set of pics cooler plugs.

I do have a 10* bushing that I could theoretically get 24* initial with a total of 34* or I maybe I could speed up the curve a bit to get some in sooner?
And btw there were no WOT runs in this cruise.
(Was with the wife) :lol:


The second set looks like the correct heat range, or the closer of the two.

With that ignition, you should have a dull white on the porcelain so you have room to clean up the idle circuit and cruise too.

I’m older than dirt, so remind me what carb this is.
 
The second set looks like the correct heat range, or the closer of the two.

With that ignition, you should have a dull white on the porcelain so you have room to clean up the idle circuit and cruise too.

I’m older than dirt, so remind me what carb this is.
LOL it’s a 800cfm Edelbrock AVS2
 
The second plug is a Champion RJ12YC. Can you make a recommendation on a plug? I’m not brand loyal to anything at this point.
 
The second plug is a Champion RJ12YC. Can you make a recommendation on a plug? I’m not brand loyal to anything at this point.
I never have had much sucess with Champion plugs, poor idle quality and I always had one or two cylinders that were cold.
I normally run Autolite plugs in my warmed up 340LA
 
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The second plug is a Champion RJ12YC. Can you make a recommendation on a plug? I’m not brand loyal to anything at this point.

With that series of plugs (short reach) you are plug limited, especially in Champion. They do show they are making a RJ12YC and Id try that and see what you get.

To clean up the cruise on your carb, you need a metering rod that is bigger (leaner) on the big step. That is your cruise jetting. Also remember that if you are rich at cruise and WOT you can reduce the main jet and leave the metering rod alone. That will leave the fuel curve across the board.
 
With that series of plugs (short reach) you are plug limited, especially in Champion. They do show they are making a RJ12YC and Id try that and see what you get.

To clean up the cruise on your carb, you need a metering rod that is bigger (leaner) on the big step. That is your cruise jetting. Also remember that if you are rich at cruise and WOT you can reduce the main jet and leave the metering rod alone. That will leave the fuel curve across the board.
So The carb is tuned at the #3 thinking I’ll change it to the #4 which in my understanding would lean it out a bit at cruise and a little at WOT, Am I correct?

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So The carb is tuned at the #3 thinking I’ll change it to the #4 which in my understanding would lean it out a bit at cruise and a little at WOT, Am I correct?

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I have ever figured out that goofy chart. I use a micrometer, measure the metering rod I’m using and find one that is a bit leaner. That’s how I do it. I’m not near smart enough to use the chart.
 
I have ever figured out that goofy chart. I use a micrometer, measure the metering rod I’m using and find one that is a bit leaner. That’s how I do it. I’m not near smart enough to use the chart.
I use a digital calipers to measure the metering rods. I have found some from Edelbrock to be out of spec plus I cant read those fricking little numbers on the rods without a microscope.
 
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I'm no plug reader mark but the first ones look eroded or worn, unless they came that way.
I'm looking at the strap. Not seeing it on the electrode.
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The second set is much sharper. Fresher plug?
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Your camera shots are pretty good. Its hard to focus in small with most digitals.
If you can get a white background in sunlight, that's the best for color ref.
Except, that the digital camara sometimes assume the metering based on the white surface. And of course metering should be on neutral gray or it will be off...

And yea I'm still using Champions, but do inspect each one for strap attachment or anything else that could be poorly manufactured. Quality is definately blah.
 
Both plugs were installed at the same time. I’ll be sure to do a better inspection of the plugs before installation.
Someplace I have photos of a fresh set of Champions. So proud of myself that I took before photos. Then I realizes it was a set with 5/8 hex and I've been sticking with 13/16. So I gave those away...
 
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