Plug wire boots for Schumacher Tri-Y

-

440 Mike

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
410
Reaction score
216
Location
Minnesota
Just wondering what plug wires/boots people like with their Try-Y headers in a big block A-body. Some tubes are pretty close to the plug. What brand and combination of 90, 180, and possibly 135 degree boots have worked for you?
 
Just wondering what plug wires/boots people like with their Try-Y headers in a big block A-body. Some tubes are pretty close to the plug. What brand and combination of 90, 180, and possibly 135 degree boots have worked for you?


The only wire ends I’ve seen survive that stuff is the wires with ceramic boots.

They’ll take the heat BUT they can be fragile so you have to show some level of soft hands when screwing around with them. Especially if they are pretty warm.

I saw my cousin break not one but two of his because his butter fingers couldn’t hold on to them.

You can get them in Mallory (red only) or Accel (black only AFAIK) and maybe MSD but I forget if they have them or not.
 
Thanks. Ceramic boots might be the way to go. Some tubes are so tight that I don't think there's enough clearance for a sleeve over a regular boot.
 
I like the ceramic sets, but I need a combination of 90, 180, and 45 degree boots. I think it's because I have straight plug heads.
 
Are you using 440 Source Stealth heads with the straight plug?
 
Schumacher, 440 Source heads, all 90 degree, all wires come from the bottom up, including #7 and #8 which are just flipped at the end to run back down. Only #8 needed a helping hand from a bracket, just to be safe.
Driving with this setup for years.

20190813_180345.jpg


20190813_180354.jpg
 
Iirc, the passenger side plugs/boots are pretty close to the inner fender, at least with the headers I have, I don't think those 45s would fit, they also look longer before the bend.
 
You are right about the passenger side. The #6 plug is too close to the shock tower for anything other than a 90 or a short 45. On the driver side the #7 can't use a 180 because the steering shaft is too close.

Ideal situation for me would be this:

#1, #2, #3, #4, #6 = 90 degree boots.
#5, #7, #8 = 45 degree boots.

Since I'm not about to buy two sets to get the combination I'll have to make the 90's work.

Did I mention that my kickdown linkage bellcrank doesn't clear the Schumacher's either? :)
 
You are right about the passenger side. The #6 plug is too close to the shock tower for anything other than a 90 or a short 45. On the driver side the #7 can't use a 180 because the steering shaft is too close.

Ideal situation for me would be this:

#1, #2, #3, #4, #6 = 90 degree boots.
#5, #7, #8 = 45 degree boots.

Since I'm not about to buy two sets to get the combination I'll have to make the 90's work.

Did I mention that my kickdown linkage bellcrank doesn't clear the Schumacher's either? :)


I’ve had to buy 3 sets for some Ford stuff back in the 90’s.

It sucked for the customer but it was the only way we could see to not burn up the wires.

I could be wrong but I don’t think they had wires with the ceramic boots back then.
 
On my 440, passenger side I have the front 3 as 90 degree and the last one is straight, on the drivers first three are straight and last one is 90 degree. No idea how I came up with that, but once I learned how to “re end” spark plug wires I was enjoying it a little too much. Don’t ask what is on my headers… I had high temp clear coated them and now they look like that

IMG_3172.jpeg


IMG_3173.jpeg


IMG_3174.jpeg


IMG_3175.jpeg


IMG_3176.jpeg
 
Just my 2c worth. I have a fresh 440 build with stealth heads and Tri-ys. After reading these posts and others on spark plug wiring I opted for a 90 deg ceramic set from Jegs. I also used a combination of the full length loom brackets and some Moroso brackets. Way too much spent, but what isnt nowdays. Here is some pictures of my overbuilt set.

plug wires 1.jpg


plug wires 2.jpg


plug wires 3.jpg


plug wires 4.jpg
 
-
Back
Top