Plumbing coolant to center freeze plug

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turboking15

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I was reading through the cooling mods thread that was written by a guy who went by sanborn on another mopar page where he talked about running fresh coolant to the center freeze plug to help cool the center exhaust ports. I have made some plugs to do just this, but now that i have the turbo headers on the motor i have no room for these plugs and elbows. My question is would it still be worth my time to install them in the front or rear holes instead?
 
Heres a pic of the plugs and hose end, along with how the headers fit the motor.

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How do they stay in, soft AL and a hammer? Interesting, getting some coolant into the block before the heads heat it?
 
How do they stay in, soft AL and a hammer? Interesting, getting some coolant into the block before the heads heat it?

The plugs are oversized by a couple thou for a press fit and i was going to use green loctite. From what i gather the thought is to get fresh coolant to the middle ports before the front of the head and block can heat it, to help with the siamese exhaust ports being a hot spot.
 
I could see this as beneficial for an engine that is running on a razors edge of detonation in the those center cylinders.

I would certainly support the hosing as close to the freeze plug as possible. A heavy hose full of water is acting like a lever to twist that freeze plug under pressure is out of the design of a press fit plug, IMO.

Wouldnt cooler oil temps achieve the same goal?
 
I could see this as beneficial for an engine that is running on a razors edge of detonation in the those center cylinders.

I would certainly support the hosing as close to the freeze plug as possible. A heavy hose full of water is acting like a lever to twist that freeze plug under pressure is out of the design of a press fit plug, IMO.

Wouldnt cooler oil temps achieve the same goal?

This motor will definitely fit into the category of ragged edge. Trying to do everything i can to help a stock bottom end survive the abuse of a turbo.

Will definitely look into supporting the hose, that is not a problem i had thought of yet.
 
I think the better choise would be to plumb the passages from the back of the intake to the thermostat housing like the circle track guys do. The exhaust valves won't get much of a burst from the block jackets, at least IMO. An oil cooler would be more beneficial overall.
 
I think the better choise would be to plumb the passages from the back of the intake to the thermostat housing like the circle track guys do. The exhaust valves won't get much of a burst from the block jackets, at least IMO. An oil cooler would be more beneficial overall.

I have the intake plumbed from the back of the head to the t stat and i have an external oil cooler aswell. Also this is a magnum block so the front coolant passage on the deck surface is non existent.
 
Question... does the relitive restriction of a turbo or even a restrictive exhost make exhost system run cooler or hotter.?
 
The plugs are oversized by a couple thou for a press fit and i was going to use green loctite. From what i gather the thought is to get fresh coolant to the middle ports before the front of the head and block can heat it, to help with the siamese exhaust ports being a hot spot.

I did that on a hot sbc yrs ago, I drilled and tapped the block between the cylinders, and used short turn brass fittings (90`s) that hugged the block, line running forward to the sides of the drilled and tapped water pump, it worked very well.
I never trusted the freeze plug thing .
All it took is 3/8' i.d. line and hogged out fittings , "not enough weight" to worry about or give any trouble.
You only have to tap a 1/8" pipe hole in the block , no need for bigger. I used blue push lok type hose that had a hi heat rating.
That and the rear to front lines kept the approximate 600 h.p. cool too !
 
I didn't know overheating the center exhaust ports was an issue on Mopar engines? Are you already running a high-flow water pump and 180-degree thermostat?
 
I didn't know overheating the center exhaust ports was an issue on Mopar engines? Are you already running a high-flow water pump and 180-degree thermostat?

Electric water pump, no t stat just a restrictor. Its not an overheating issue so much as it is a hot spot. The center 2 cylinders will generally run a little hotter than the end 2 cylinders, combine that with forced induction and a single point fuel source, it can cause problems when you start leaning on it.
 
Electric water pump, no t stat just a restrictor. Its not an overheating issue so much as it is a hot spot. The center 2 cylinders will generally run a little hotter than the end 2 cylinders, combine that with forced induction and a single point fuel source, it can cause problems when you start leaning on it.
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I would think the two center exhaust ports would run hotter on any engine , unless it`s a spread port .
 
So here are my 2 possible locations, ive also thought about putting an elbow on the back side of the plug to help direct the coolant up and towards the center. Thoughts?

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So here are my 2 possible locations, ive also thought about putting an elbow on the back side of the plug to help direct the coolant up and towards the center. Thoughts?

View attachment 1715291843

Hey, Im sorry I know this is an old thread but i was curious... could you run the NPT lines thru the drain plug already there? Or it would be too low and too quick to take the coolant back to the pump?
 
Hey, Im sorry I know this is an old thread but i was curious... could you run the NPT lines thru the drain plug already there? Or it would be too low and too quick to take the coolant back to the pump
I think the 3/8" or 1/4"opening would be too small to be usefull
 
Hey, Im sorry I know this is an old thread but i was curious... could you run the NPT lines thru the drain plug already there? Or it would be too low and too quick to take the coolant back to the pump?
I think that would be too small of a passage and too far away from where you need the extra cooling. I ended up using the freeze plug closest to the timing cover and have an elbow threaded on the inside of my aluminum plugs that point up to between the exhaust ports. I haven't fired the motor yet, so I can't report on if it works or not yet.
 
Interesting idea, like you I drilled and tapped the rear of my intake as well. How did you plumb those fittings in? Can see with a mechanical pump using the ports for the heater core.
 
Talk about trying to reinvent the wheel. This will end up being a flat tire.
 
Interesting idea, like you I drilled and tapped the rear of my intake as well. How did you plumb those fittings in? Can see with a mechanical pump using the ports for the heater core.
I welded fittings to the sides of the timing cover to feed the block. I'm also running a remote mount electric pump.

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Do you have any more pictures of your timing cover modifications? For the remote mount water pump?
 
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