points to electronic.

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crooked1/2dozen

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Hey Y'all:

Better get a beer, sit down and get comfy, this is a long post!

So I'm thinking that the newly installed 3 wire alternator is working properly, car runs with battery cable disconnected etc., good voltage reading. So I figured it was safe to install my scavenged mid '70s D-100 5pin electronic ignition. Wire colours were different than schematics I found, but quickly sorted out the problem. Installed everything with temporary wiring hookups, tried the key, and the '64 225 started right up, but was sluggish as if the spark was weak or timing was off. Rotated distributor through its range and decided that I needed to shift the rotor 1 tooth. Here's where I screwed up. I got ahead of my self and didn't register the rotor position when I pulled the distributor!! So, I rotated engine to TDC on Chryslers barely discernible pulley mark, installed distributor w/ #1 plug wire lined up, nada, rotated shaft 180 degrees, nada, pulled off rocker cover to try to establish #1 TDC both valves closed, nada, tried several settings either side of the TDC, nada, referred to the 'net, and here's what I found. With distributor out, key on, spun shaft, no spark noted. Checked resistance of pickup, 426ohms, good, no short, checked voltage when spinning, only got .1V, but here's what I found out later. Multimeter must be set to VAC, not VDC. On VAC, I get 1.5V, all good. A critical piece of information left out of one diagnostic. VAC!!!!, Not VDC!!!!! :munky2:So the distributor that I thought wasn't working, went to PNP for another, replaced reluctor etc, it was all good all along. But no spark. Got 12V to distributor etc, methinks wiring is good. Had ECU checked out when I bought it used. Ballast resistor seems good.

Then I'm getting conflicting 4pin ballast resistor parameters for the 2 sides, one says 5 and 5 ohms, one says 5 and 1.2-2 ohms, who knows..??!!
Long story short, I replaced the ECU with original points,timed it with previous method (rocker cover still off) and the car started (barely), but ran poorly, I re-indexed the dist, and it's running great, albeit with the timing mark about 25-30 degrees BTDC at idle! No wonder I couldn't index the electronic distributor.

So, it's raining right now, the trials and tribulations will continue when the weather is fair, will keep all updated.


Dan
 
pull the no#1 plug, stick your finger over the hole, crank engine, when it blows your finger off, that's tdc on the compression stroke, stab the dist. start the engine and adjust the timing. no need to pull the valve (rocker) cover.
 
Mac Daddy:

Ya, I could of done that, but I figured that the mark on the harmonic balancer would be TDC....I don't think it is, then it would either fire, or I could 180 it and then fire. Plus I wanted to do the valve lash anyways, the valves must have been done not too many miles ago as the were all pretty close to spec.

Dan
 
Hey Y'all:

Better get a beer, sit down and get comfy, this is a long post!

So I'm thinking that the newly installed 3 wire alternator is working properly, car runs with battery cable disconnected etc., good voltage reading. So I figured it was safe to install my scavenged mid '70s D-100 5pin electronic ignition. Wire colours were different than schematics I found, but quickly sorted out the problem. Installed everything with temporary wiring hookups, tried the key, and the '64 225 started right up, but was sluggish as if the spark was weak or timing was off. Rotated distributor through its range and decided that I needed to shift the rotor 1 tooth. Here's where I screwed up. I got ahead of my self and didn't register the rotor position when I pulled the distributor!! So, I rotated engine to TDC on Chryslers barely discernible pulley mark, installed distributor w/ #1 plug wire lined up, nada, rotated shaft 180 degrees, nada, pulled off rocker cover to try to establish #1 TDC both valves closed, nada, tried several settings either side of the TDC, nada, referred to the 'net, and here's what I found. With distributor out, key on, spun shaft, no spark noted. Checked resistance of pickup, 426ohms, good, no short, checked voltage when spinning, only got .1V, but here's what I found out later. Multimeter must be set to VAC, not VDC. On VAC, I get 1.5V, all good. A critical piece of information left out of one diagnostic. VAC!!!!, Not VDC!!!!! :munky2:So the distributor that I thought wasn't working, went to PNP for another, replaced reluctor etc, it was all good all along. But no spark. Got 12V to distributor etc, methinks wiring is good. Had ECU checked out when I bought it used. Ballast resistor seems good.

Then I'm getting conflicting 4pin ballast resistor parameters for the 2 sides, one says 5 and 5 ohms, one says 5 and 1.2-2 ohms, who knows..??!!
Long story short, I replaced the ECU with original points,timed it with previous method (rocker cover still off) and the car started (barely), but ran poorly, I re-indexed the dist, and it's running great, albeit with the timing mark about 25-30 degrees BTDC at idle! No wonder I couldn't index the electronic distributor.

So, it's raining right now, the trials and tribulations will continue when the weather is fair, will keep all updated.


Dan


Dan,

Did you read my post #6 to you in this thread?
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=112844
 
Dan,

Did you read my post #6 to you in this thread?
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=112844
Ouch: Mea Culpa: My Bad!!!

There it is, I'd read similar voltage parameters as in your message, re: ohms and voltages, but obviously skipped over your VAC recommendations! On my cheapie multimeter I didn't even notice the AC vs DC settings, once again, my fault.

What forest? all I see are trees!

Thanks again for your input. It's stopped raining, This weekend I'll take another stab at the electronic install. On that note, I was looking at an MSD blaster coil w/ ballast, $53 @ the local speed shop, a coil upgrade seems to be recommended, I've got the original factory truck coil in there now, maybe that will suffice??

Cheers

Dan
 
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