Points to Electronic

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eestatic

eestatic

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I'm trying to organize a concise thought structure here with regard to converting to electronic.

What is the difference from an old point style distributor (1965), with a PerTronix PNX-1281 installed in it versus a distributor for a (1974) year model, already "electronic" stock?

After looking at a vacuum advance module and rebuild enhancements for a distributor, it appears best to buy at least a remanufactured unit.

If I get a distributor for a 1974 model, do I still need to use the PerTronix conversion unit?

Does utilizing the PerTronix kit allow to do away with the ballast resistor?


Thanks fabo!
 
Yes, by utilizing the Pertronix kit, you do away with the Ballast Resistor. It would also be a good idea to replace the ignition coil with something a little hotter. Pertronix makes a coil that runs perfectly with its conversion kit.

By all means you can get a electronic distributor and do away with the pertronix. I installed a pertronix conversion kit in my points distributor and couldn't be happier.

Just make sure not to drop any small screws down into the distributor when installing!

This kit, along with a tuneup of other ignition parts, is like night and day compared to points ignition. Good Luck!
 
So, I could just get a 1974 electronic unit, upgrade to a better coil, & do away w/ballast resistor and use only the two wires coming out of new distributor which would connect across the coil?

Any concerns with preferred ohmic values of matching coil to distributor ? I've noticed varying resistance values in coils.

What are the concerns here?

I'm trying not to create a Rube Goldberg effect..:eek:ops:
 
Why you so fancied on getting rid of the ballast resistor ?
Just wondering.

And No...Getting a 74 dist does not do away with the ballast resistor.
 
eestatic said:
So, I could just get a 1974 electronic unit, upgrade to a better coil, & do away w/ballast resistor and use only the two wires coming out of new distributor which would connect across the coil?

Any concerns with preferred ohmic values of matching coil to distributor ? I've noticed varying resistance values in coils.

What are the concerns here?

I'm trying not to create a Rube Goldberg effect..:eek:ops:
Click to expand...
Uuuuuh.... the distributor drives an ECU box which controls the coil in a Chrysler electronic ignition system......The Pertronix system all goes inside the distributor and connects directly to the coil.

Download a schematic for a later A-body car from mymopar.com to see the wiring for the Chrysler electronic ignition system.

The ECU just has to be able to handle the maximum coil current reliably; that maximum current is set by the total resistance in the coil or the coil+ballast. Something like a Pertronix can handle more current.

Chrysler ECU ignition modules should be used with the right total resistance (coil resistance + any ballast resistance); IMO they won't handle as much current reliably as a pertronix, simply because I am sure the design engineers did not intend them to be used with lower total resistance (and the switching transistors that we have today did not exist then). Pertronix has been designed for a wider range of resistances and higher currents.
 
Personally, I think if you just want to go to the electronic and that is your main goal then just get an electronic distributor and put it together with the stock ECU.
Pertronics just don't seem as reliable as the factory stuff.

Now if you want to go to electronic and also have a good hot spark, then I would suggest you get the factory electronic distributor and go with HEI.
(Super reliable and easy to get parts for without ordering them and waiting)

If need be, I can set you up with everything you need for HEI here. www.classichei.com This is me.
 
Hmmm, so it seems in the interest of simplicity, just purchase a reman dist., drop the PerTronix module in and connect to a recommended "better" coil to do away w/points.


* the car is a 1965 Barracuda
 
As poorly as it ran (marginal) with the old tired 273, the fresh 318 w/upgrades should produce a smile and maybe tire marks..:cheers:
 
eestatic said:
Hmmm, so it seems in the interest of simplicity, just purchase a ................. PerTronix module
Click to expand...

No, "just purchase" TWO Pertronix kits. That's because they are proprietary aftermarket parts, and if they quit, you'll be wondering where to get parts
 
After further investigating, it was determined that previous engineering occurred with this distributor that came out of this car (1974)..:eek:ops:
 

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TrailBeast said:
Personally, I think if you just want to go to the electronic and that is your main goal then just get an electronic distributor and put it together with the stock ECU.
Pertronics just don't seem as reliable as the factory stuff.

Now if you want to go to electronic and also have a good hot spark, then I would suggest you get the factory electronic distributor and go with HEI.
(Super reliable and easy to get parts for without ordering them and waiting)

If need be, I can set you up with everything you need for HEI here. www.classichei.com This is me.
Click to expand...


Alot of this is foreign to me and greatly appreciate all who help!!

In the Full HEI kit, what all do you get?

Thanks
 
I just have to wonder why so many people don't consider runnin stock electronic mopar setup especially in a stock engine???? why to distrust the $4 ballast resistor???? why have a chevy lookin distributor and no ballast juat to have a little more unneeded spark in a stock engine???? just have to wonder? if paranoid, pretty easy to carry spare stock ECU and ballast.????? just wondering....
but then again i'm old school and still run points in most my stuff..... LOL
 
barbee6043 said:
I just have to wonder why so many people don't consider runnin stock electronic mopar setup especially in a stock engine???? why to distrust the $4 ballast resistor???? why have a chevy lookin distributor and no ballast juat to have a little more unneeded spark in a stock engine???? just have to wonder? if paranoid, pretty easy to carry spare stock ECU and ballast.????? just wondering....
but then again i'm old school and still run points in most my stuff..... LOL
Click to expand...

You are misinformed. You don't need to have a "Chevy looking" distributor

What I run:

Stock type Mopar distributor. Actually it's an Accel, but it could just as well be a factory

Stock Mopar coil. Stock. As in 'the 1967 original'

GM HEI module which ONLY replaces the Mopar box and ELIMINATES the ballast. This gives you a hotter spark even with a factory coil.

If you are "picky" about "Mopar" you can mount an HEI module inside a Mopar box.

Mopar boxes are no longer reliable as the parts stores are all selling the Chinese ****. Blue Streak and Echlin is no longer the name of "quality."

Even if the HEI fails I can get one anywhere, and, I've already got one
 
barbee6043 said:
I just have to wonder why so many people don't consider runnin stock electronic mopar setup especially in a stock engine???? why to distrust the $4 ballast resistor???? why have a chevy lookin distributor and no ballast juat to have a little more unneeded spark in a stock engine???? just have to wonder? if paranoid, pretty easy to carry spare stock ECU and ballast.????? just wondering....
but then again i'm old school and still run points in most my stuff..... LOL
Click to expand...

Other than running points, Preach it Brotha....!!!!!!!

Can I get an Amen !!!!!!!!

Plus it dont look like cobbled up Chit !!!!!!!!!!
 
eestatic said:
Alot of this is foreign to me and greatly appreciate all who help!!

In the Full HEI kit, what all do you get?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Everything to run HEI that you need.
Standard electronic distributor. (if needed)
Ignition module
Coil
Coil wire
Written instructions and support via phone or email.

Super easy to hook up and prewired so all you have to do is put the distributor in, mount the small ECU to a grounded surface, and connect your ignition power wires to the coil.
Instant HEI.

This allows you to eliminate the ballast resistor, the coil off the intake (if you want) and the big "azz" ugly box off your fender along with that 20 feet of wire that's in there now for the original ECU.
The HEI stuff can even be mounted under the dash inside the cab so none of it is visible if you wish.

There are a few HEI haters that want the original stuff on thier car and that's fine, but the HEI users would never go back after running it.
Not once has anyone told me that they were sorry they swapped and I've sold quite a few of the kits.
 
I used to be a "big believer" in Mopar was "fine." This was true "back when" you could get good quality replacement boxes. Now that "everything" is Chineseo, not so.

I bought a dimmer switch for the Dart through NAPA. I doubt it's got 50 operations, and it's done.
 
To clear up a few errors (I think):

The original Pertronix Ignitor (still sold on ebay) does require a ballast resistor. A Pertronix II or III do not need a ballast and give better spark. III gives multi-spark. Visit their website.
I think you can only put a Pertronix in a points distributor.

If you have a Mopar e-distributor, cheapest is to get 85-95 GM HEI module, coil, and cables, at a junkyard.

If you have no distributor, cheapest is a new $45 ready-to-run HEI distributor (ebay).

You can still get new Mopar e-ignition retrofit kits, but ~$200 and more wiring effort, all for a weaker spark. But many like to stay all "Mopar" (though other companies made these parts).

We have no idea how hard your wiring would be for each approach because you didn't bother to tell us what car or truck you have.
 
BillGrissom said:
The original Pertronix Ignitor (still sold on ebay) does require a ballast resistor.
Click to expand...
Actually it depends on the coil resistance; this is direct from the Pertronix Ignitor instruction sheet that the OP referenced:

4. Eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of primary resistance. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is less than 1.5 ohms.​
5. If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors.
 
BillGrissom said:
To clear up a few errors (I think):

The original Pertronix Ignitor (still sold on ebay) does require a ballast resistor. A Pertronix II or III do not need a ballast and give better spark. III gives multi-spark. Visit their website.
I think you can only put a Pertronix in a points distributor.

If you have a Mopar e-distributor, cheapest is to get 85-95 GM HEI module, coil, and cables, at a junkyard.

If you have no distributor, cheapest is a new $45 ready-to-run HEI distributor (ebay).

You can still get new Mopar e-ignition retrofit kits, but ~$200 and more wiring effort, all for a weaker spark. But many like to stay all "Mopar" (though other companies made these parts).

We have no idea how hard your wiring would be for each approach because you didn't bother to tell us what car or truck you have.
Click to expand...


My car is a 1965 Barracuda w/273 as of now but have a 318 out of a '74 Dart that is my new upgrade. The distrubuter out of the Dart was also a point type! I noticed where it was re-engineered!:wack:
 
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