I installed all new suspension on my 1974 Plymouth duster. Used the supplied grease but now I have a squeaking front end. I think I’ve narrowed it down to upper control arm bushings. What can I do to fix this squeak? Thanks
Polyurethane bushing squeak
- Thread starter Cam1399
- Start date
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I know you are supposed to leave the upper control arms nuts loose and then jack up the car from the lower control arm then tighten. Not sure if you did this.
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
That's one of the issues with urethane bushing, if you used grease upon assembly there's not a lot of options. 65'
Switch it to the original rubber and don't listen to anyone promoting the use of poly bushings or any of the aftermarket junk some of these members are using for bandaids for their original control arm suspension cars. Unless you are going to go the whole route of replacing the complete suspension with aftermarket parts the poly bushings are a waist of money. HemiDenny has it figured out
Now watch how many reply that their cars work so fine. And here comes 72Blu n Blu
Now watch how many reply that their cars work so fine. And here comes 72Blu n Blu
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Or he can just figure out where the squeak is coming from and fix it. Sounds like he's already half way there.
Just need more grease, assuming that the install was done properly (proper clearances and torque) and the squeaking hasn’t been going on so long that damage has occurred. Those kits don’t usually have enough grease included to really do it right.
Poly is not like rubber, the bushings do not work in the same manner, and poly must be greased to work properly. If they’re squeaking, you need more grease (or the install wasn’t done properly).
The high end aftermarket components that make use of poly bushings all have zerk fittings so you can add grease if necessary. And I wouldn’t use a poly bushing in a spot where you can’t add grease if necessary.
Lol!!!
Explain how the poly bushings used in the upper control arms for the HDK suspension are any different than using poly bushings in the UCA’s with the Mopar suspension. I’ll give you a hint, they work exactly the same way, and Denny uses poly UCA bushings in his kits.
HDK 67 to 76 A Body K frame package
Poly is not like rubber, the bushings do not work in the same manner, and poly must be greased to work properly. If they’re squeaking, you need more grease (or the install wasn’t done properly).
The high end aftermarket components that make use of poly bushings all have zerk fittings so you can add grease if necessary. And I wouldn’t use a poly bushing in a spot where you can’t add grease if necessary.
Lol!!!
Explain how the poly bushings used in the upper control arms for the HDK suspension are any different than using poly bushings in the UCA’s with the Mopar suspension. I’ll give you a hint, they work exactly the same way, and Denny uses poly UCA bushings in his kits.
HDK 67 to 76 A Body K frame package
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Exactly. Follow the instructions, make sure all the fits and clearances are correct, lubricate generously. Never had an issue when they’ve been installed and maintained properly.
I called it first. I got Dibs! Here we go. How do you lube an upper control arm bushing? An what the hell is the clearance on the upper and where do you measure it. As usual I think your just blowing smoke out of an orifice. You may want to lube it before you start a fire.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
Turn up the radio, or run open headers
pishta
I know I'm right....
use a non petroleum grease, aka astro-glide, KY or PST. Bring the jokes......poly just doesn't deform like rubber does under extreme loads nor does it absorb oils or ozone breakdown.
Called it? You’re such a toddler.
Yeah, of course that was my answer, because it’s how you actually fix the problem.
And if you don’t understand how to check the proper tolerances before you install a bushing, you really shouldn’t be giving anyone advice on installing bushings.
While funny, that’s a bad plan. If your poly bushings are squeaking they’re not lubricated properly, which means they will wear out prematurely. No different than a ball joint running dry.
Which bushings did you install?
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
hmm... interesting because YOU previously stated that you install poly in the uppers.
so are you going to post the usual same pictures of the "restored" K members? or the blurry one of engines sitting on K members? or that sweet one of you in the 80's rockin' the fast cash mustache?
all that aside, i'd love to see that video of LCA defection & movement with a poly bushing that you've been promising. or lemme guess you haven't had your son build that jig yet?
I tell you what I used to grease the last ones I had and will use it again. I use it on all kinda stuff, actually. Permatex ceramic based brake grease. Has a temperature range of -40 to 3000 degreesF. The stuff just flat works and stays put.
From who? What brand? I’m not a mind reader, there are multiple different kits out there. A link to the source would be very helpful
Poly and rubber bushings function very differently. In the rubber version, nothing spins, the movement of the UCA is just flex in the rubber. The poly is too stiff to flex like that, so, the bushing must spin. In the case of those bushings, the bushing is likely spinning on the inner metal sleeve. The only other possibility is that the whole bushing, including the metal sleeve, is spinning on the camber bolt. But a lot of times, like with the factory bushings, the inner sleeve will not spin on the bolt because it will be captured when you tighten the camber bolt.
To grease that style of upper bushing you need to pull the inner metal sleeve (that the bolt goes through) and grease the outside of the sleeve and the inside of the poly bushing (and a little on the camber bolt too, but that’s for any kind of bushing). Typically with that kind of bushing the poly is tight enough in the outer shell that it won’t spin there and therefore can’t easily be removed from the shell. But if it’s not tight in the outer shell (like it’s a slip fit) then you need grease between the bushing and the outer sleeve as well. It has to spin somewhere, it won’t flex.
Also, one of the reasons I don’t like kits. They should specifically list all the individual parts they sent you with the part # and manufacturer so you know what you have. Mystery meat is not a good thing.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Yep that will definitely intensify the squeaking.
@Cam1399 Get it to ride height 'loaded' then tighten the uppers. If it's getting aligned those will get loosened up and reset anyways. I like polyurethane in my old cars especially the lower arms doesn't matter if the upper arm so much really helps on the strut rods a lot when it comes to turning. Squeaking doesn't bother me at all because I know why it's squeaking and that makes me feel good knowing it's a great handling car it's not going to get bounced all over the ******* road. The quietest combination for using any polyurethane bushing would be to use them in the lower arms only and strut rods and use rubber in the upper. In the rear use a rubber big eye bushing in the spring and use polyurethane 1" shackle bushings.
Good luck.
Yeah , He can maybe get a needle/syringe type lube and push it between the sleeve and the poly material on the upper bushing. Or maybe someone will come up with eccentric bolts with grease fittings for you all to buy as a package with the lower pins and the "K-member bending none cushioned adjustable struts". I am sure as soon as PST sees this post there will be lubible upper bolts to sell.
I love this site, It never seizes to amaze me of how gullible some of you are to these venders . Entertaining as ever.
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