POOR MAN'S HINGE REPAIR

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CFD244

CFD244

"THE NEW OLDSMOBILES ARE IN EARLY THIS YEAR"
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Hi Folks

Started out with a pair of old, rusty and sloppy hinges. Picked out a couple of long 3/8 bolts from the parts bin and got a hold of a 3/8 reamer.
1592294-e65a07c502a2b81c2e58f19d8fe398d0.jpg

I disassembled the hinges and ran them through the bead cabinet. Gave them a good inspection and didn't find any cracks and the springs looked good. I soaked (evaporust) the hinge portion with the wheels to clean out the rust as I couldn't remove the wheels. Once that was finished, I worked the wheels with penetrating oil 'til they moved freely. Reamed the sloppy holes to size.

Next, I went to work on the bolts. I rounded off the heads and filed a convex into it to take away the "bolty" look, cut them to length, and hit the neck with some chisel marks to act as knurling to facilitate the "press in".

1592296-b22ac3d82091467f59defba8066f61b0.jpg


Before assembly, the bolts (now pins) were case hardened with a torch. Heat them up red hot, quench them in oil, clean them, heat them up blue hot (just before red), and quench them in water.......Watch the file skip right across.

Reassemble and press the new pins in......No bushings and tight as a drum.


1592304-c2cbce60152acd8a5fa85c7e39aefd9e.jpg

Didn't cost me a cent as I had all of the **** in my shop. LOL.....I'm getting more creative the poorer I get!:thumbsup:

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IMG_1893.JPG
 
Great Macgyver work!! I probably would have tack welded (wire feed) the splined end (head of pin) to the hinge since it probably won't be replaced for another 45 years. Don't want the pin to spin???
 
Nice! Thanks for the share! Time to make a "sandwich board" and place at end of the driveway.:thumbsup:
CFD244 said:
Hi Folks

Started out with a pair of old, rusty and sloppy hinges. Picked out a couple of long 3/8 bolts from the parts bin and got a hold of a 3/8 reamer.
View attachment 1715863946
I disassembled the hinges and ran them through the bead cabinet. Gave them a good inspection and didn't find any cracks and the springs looked good. I soaked (evaporust) the hinge portion with the wheels to clean out the rust as I couldn't remove the wheels. Once that was finished, I worked the wheels with penetrating oil 'til they moved freely. Reamed the sloppy holes to size.

Next, I went to work on the bolts. I rounded off the heads and filed a convex into it to take away the "bolty" look, cut them to length, and hit the neck with some chisel marks to act as knurling to facilitate the "press in".

View attachment 1715863947

Before assembly, the bolts (now pins) were case hardened with a torch. Heat them up red hot, quench them in oil, clean them, heat them up blue hot (just before red), and quench them in water.......Watch the file skip right across.

Reassemble and press the new pins in......No bushings and tight as a drum.


View attachment 1715863948
Didn't cost me a cent as I had all of the **** in my shop. LOL.....I'm getting more creative the poorer I get!:thumbsup:

View attachment 1715863931

View attachment 1715863933

View attachment 1715863941
Click to expand...
 
Treblig said:
Great Macgyver work!! I probably would have tack welded (wire feed) the splined end (head of pin) to the hinge since it probably won't be replaced for another 45 years. Don't want the pin to spin???
Click to expand...
Now that the spines are hardened, they bight into the hinge boss pretty good. I contemplated tacking them as well but decided to go this route.
 
Thank you. You used a 3/8" oversized pin and that is what I use most of the time. I just go a little further on the repair/rebuild.....

HINGE REBUILD PARTS info.jpg
 
I learned to do basically that (just the drill and bolt with liberal penetrating lubricant and a wire brush) on my second Mopar, and have lost count of how many I've done over 38 years.

IIRC, I've only had 2 cars that didn't need it.
 
Well this forum is all about DIY stuff. And considering what it costs to mail a set of heavy hinges, I appreciate CFD244 sharing.
 
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