I love yours too ! I want itDo the lights dim, when you turn that behemoth on? lol
No not yet. I have 100 amp service in my shop so if I don’t turn on my compressor, mig welder, tig welder, and flow heads at the same time I should be good. Lol.
Porting small block 915 j-heads
- Thread starter kma
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No not yet. I have 100 amp service in my shop so if I don’t turn on my compressor, mig welder, tig welder, and flow heads at the same time I should be good. Lol.
Love your engagement guys. Thanks
One tip after another.
A question: Would it be stupid to shorten the guide at least .200”
I’ve read somewhere .375 and thought @MOPAROFFICIAL ’s guides looks shorter than mine on the pictures.
It’s not a daily driver mostly weekends.
One tip after another.
A question: Would it be stupid to shorten the guide at least .200”
I’ve read somewhere .375 and thought @MOPAROFFICIAL ’s guides looks shorter than mine on the pictures.
It’s not a daily driver mostly weekends.
Normally, I don't, cause I'm using a lot of spring pressure compared to stock and geometry is compromised.
In your case, however, you could probably get away with it. (mild cam, low spring pressures)
Keep in mind, shortening the guide reduces stability. You could run a tighter clearance, but that is limited. (stick the valve)
There is airflow to be gained though.
I'm sure someone will chime in here. I would be interested in their take too. (I hope all of this translates into Swedish correctly..)
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
They are cut regardless of the amount when the guides are done.
I've cut 3/8 off them, stuck in a one pc bronze guide and let the guide alone protruding from the ground down guide boss. No issues. I run 220 seat 500+ open
I dont like bronze for endurance, it's great for wear and forgiving to stems..but it doesnt hold up like steel guides do.
So where is the ops grinder and carbide bits? Let's get to the guiding as he goes...
Whoever leads him to water has to buy him the jb weld , low psi cap..and the stop leak!
I've cut 3/8 off them, stuck in a one pc bronze guide and let the guide alone protruding from the ground down guide boss. No issues. I run 220 seat 500+ open
I dont like bronze for endurance, it's great for wear and forgiving to stems..but it doesnt hold up like steel guides do.
So where is the ops grinder and carbide bits? Let's get to the guiding as he goes...
Whoever leads him to water has to buy him the jb weld , low psi cap..and the stop leak!
Ha ha. I don’t translate. I have understood everything so far.Normally, I don't, cause I'm using a lot of spring pressure compared to stock and geometry is compromised.
In your case, however, you could probably get away with it. (mild cam, low spring pressures)
Keep in mind, shortening the guide reduces stability. You could run a tighter clearance, but that is limited. (stick the valve)
There is airflow to be gained though.
I'm sure someone will chime in here. I would be interested in their take too. (I hope all of this translates into Swedish correctly..)
it’s harder to write in english , use google translate sometimes so it could look funny for you I think.
I’m gonna use 110-115 springs to begin with , don’t remember what I ordered. Maybe stiffer in the future who knows
I don’t follow everything here.
220 seat (spring pressure ? )
500 + ( cam lift ? )
open ?
endurance ? Isn’t that the same as wear?
I can take a picture of my “arsenal” if you want. Have to wait till tomorrow tho.
Valves springs and everything were shipped today from US. Must have them home before new guides after that grinding begins
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Couldn´t wait. I know the air grinder is not the slickest but it´s free also the air. We had a much better grinder before someone made it turn in excentric ways.
The electric one is heavy as h..l
I think I have it covered , correct me if I´m wrong
Sometimes I even get paid for doing this , depends how much I do at working time.
The electric one is heavy as h..l
I think I have it covered , correct me if I´m wrong
Sometimes I even get paid for doing this , depends how much I do at working time.
I use these also. I got a fair chunk of these, I'll give you a deal on, good quality rolls.
Ohh I forgot about those. No thank you but thanks. I have access to both conical and cylindrical in different sizes and grit
eBay item
At least I can’t buy it on eBay. We don’t have the same voltage here in Sweden.
230 Volts and also the metric system.
I don’t understand how you even understand Imperial yourselves
230 Volts and also the metric system.
I don’t understand how you even understand Imperial yourselves
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
All you should need.
Ok. I think the oval shaped will be good in the bowl blending tho. Future will tell
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I use a pedal that I stole off one of my wife's old sewing machines. It works great.
I have an electric grinder and a couple burrs in my race car trailer for emergency repairs and also have a router speed control from Harbor Freight. I’ve recommended those to guys for years to slow their grinders down so they make less mistakes porting heads. They go on sale for around 20.00 quite often. Plug your grinder into it and dial back your speed.
I actually don´t work for the Government , I work as a maintenence technician in a bakery producing hot dog and hamburger buns. Lots of them.
Have the most machines for processing , lathe mill etc etc.
Sometimes the factory runs without my help , times without my help enables time for some private stuff
But I tiotally agree about government jobs , lazy
Foredom makes a nice electric unit. (Motor, cable, hand piece) but you have to get the industrial quality unit.
Ebay is full of the 'jeweler' light duty units, but they have a chuck style hand piece. I would avoid these.
A lot of Chinese copies being made that may be even worse.
Maybe someone on FABO is using one, and likes it..
Personally, I would get one with a 1/4" collet style hand piece and 1/4 hp.
I have a similar unit by Dremel for the last 20 yrs or so. Still going. (No longer produced, unfortunately)
Ebay is full of the 'jeweler' light duty units, but they have a chuck style hand piece. I would avoid these.
A lot of Chinese copies being made that may be even worse.
Maybe someone on FABO is using one, and likes it..
Personally, I would get one with a 1/4" collet style hand piece and 1/4 hp.
I have a similar unit by Dremel for the last 20 yrs or so. Still going. (No longer produced, unfortunately)
This is all I use for porting work. Nice, small and very easy to control. This is the heavy duty handpiece.
Foredom H.44T Handpiece Rotary with 3 Collets 3/32" 1/8" 1/4" Wood Work Crafts 98666715789 | eBay
Yeah! that's the way to do it
I never liked the sound of a compressor pounding in the background. Can't hear the radio!
(spent my career around compressors, you'd think I'd get used to it.. but I always couldn't wait for it to shut off)
I never liked the sound of a compressor pounding in the background. Can't hear the radio!
(spent my career around compressors, you'd think I'd get used to it.. but I always couldn't wait for it to shut off)
Yeah! that's the way to do it
I never liked the sound of a compressor pounding in the background. Can't hear the radio!
(spent my career around compressors, you'd think I'd get used to it.. but I always couldn't wait for it to shut off)
Don't ask my why but I have three of them. I thought the motors would be more fragile so I kept my eyes open and when I saw the higher out put motors for the right price I bought them for spares. Heck I finally changes out my first set of brushes. I do keep a few extra cables around as I have changed out some of those.
I just changed my shaft cable the other day... I have a couple 'cores' too. I've repaired them in the past with success.
The most important part, for me is having extra hand pieces. They get HOT and it enables me to switch to other tool shapes and so on..
Now if I can get a padded stool ! lol
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I've got a Foredom but the little drill chuck won't take a 1/4" tool. Time for a new hand piece.
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