Post your Super Stock clones

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Update: The Hemi is in and it $%#%# fits. I used the SS and AFX mounts and lowered the K-frame .5" per the 68 specs. It's been a battle but I'm getting really close. I built a dolly and we lowered the car down over the engine and trans. The rockers had to come off for an extra 3/8" of needed clearance when we lowered the car. We also had to ding the TTI A body headers on #7 just a tiny tad to clear the steering shaft. I think its a function of the lowered K-frame that caused that. We did have to make some minor mods around the idler arm mount because of my wide Milodon oil pan but that wasn't too bad. Sorry it's hard to see because of the contrast of the white engine compartment and black valve covers. When I get it all buttoned up and can get it outside I'll have some better pics. BTW - The Hemi is a "mild" 572 and is making about 760 HP. It doesn't have a cross ram but if you look close, that's not a stock intake either.... It's a Stage V Rat Buster single plane. It pushed my 4000lb Road Runner to 10.02 @ 134. It should be interesting in a light A body. :)

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Holy frijoles
 
Tampered some with the lights. Hope it was ok.
Nice engine compartment and very nice clean looking car.

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Tampered some with the lights. Hope it was ok.
Nice engine compartment and very nice clean looking car.

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Nice job, SSing! That looks much better. Thanks for the kind words too. The engine compartment was a big mess when I started. The previous owner had used a hella lotta rattle can black in there. I realize the original SS cars had black engine compartments but this was way over the top. I had to strip the firewall and fenders down to bare metal. In addition there were dozens of drilled holes and dents in the fenders for God knows what. I've attached a couple of additional pics. They are showing the right inner fender as I worked on the shock tower (it had been modified previously with a sledge hammer - the old fashioned way). The other is of the wiper motor before I sent it out for restoration. You can see on wiper motor just how much black spray paint was applied. ooooof.....

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CNC ported Stage V heads, Mopar block, 4.5" bore and stroke, custom grind solid roller ~.600 lift, Ohio Crank, 10:1, can run on 91 octane, TTI headers, Stage V Rat Buster, 2 Edelbrock 1805s. Banning built engine. Idles like a station wagon. Runs like a scalded dog.


Looks good!!! Nice work on getting it in too.

BTW - you do need a crossram to complete the look.

Yes, Tim (FHO) builds some strong and reliable motors.

Keep the pics coming , I need all the incentive I can get to keep going on my junk.
 
Looks good!!! Nice work on getting it in too.

BTW - you do need a crossram to complete the look.

Yes, Tim (FHO) builds some strong and reliable motors.

Keep the pics coming , I need all the incentive I can get to keep going on my junk.
LOL - sscuda - I like the idea of the cross ram too but I'm probably looking at 3-4 grand or more for it. I did talk to Tim about it but I think for now, I'll stay put and just try to get it running. Maybe down the road if I sell off a bunch of parts or win the lottery I'll get one. :) Hey, you guys were my motivation and incentive to build this. I got some great advice and help from the people on this forum. I asked a lot of questions in PMs and people responded with pics and ideas. #priceless
 
CNC ported Stage V heads, Mopar block, 4.5" bore and stroke, custom grind solid roller ~.600 lift, Ohio Crank, 10:1, can run on 91 octane, TTI headers, Stage V Rat Buster, 2 Edelbrock 1805s. Banning built engine. Idles like a station wagon. Runs like a scalded dog.
I was wondering what u were going to do w/ the heater motor -LOL
 
LOL - sscuda - I like the idea of the cross ram too but I'm probably looking at 3-4 grand or more for it. I did talk to Tim about it but I think for now, I'll stay put and just try to get it running. Maybe down the road if I sell off a bunch of parts or win the lottery I'll get one. :) Hey, you guys were my motivation and incentive to build this. I got some great advice and help from the people on this forum. I asked a lot of questions in PMs and people responded with pics and ideas. #priceless

Devnull,

Your project looks great, great workmanship too. . I hope you enjoy it for years to come.

My motivation is done, my project is going to a good home in Ohio this coming Thursday. After 50+ years of building cars I can honestly say "I'm done". I'll still look after the family cars/trucks but no more projects. My cousin's SS/AH car is getting paint next year so I'll be still involved to some extent with the hobby. If you need advice or whatever let me know.

sscuda
 
Devnull,

Your project looks great, great workmanship too. . I hope you enjoy it for years to come.

My motivation is done, my project is going to a good home in Ohio this coming Thursday. After 50+ years of building cars I can honestly say "I'm done". I'll still look after the family cars/trucks but no more projects. My cousin's SS/AH car is getting paint next year so I'll be still involved to some extent with the hobby. If you need advice or whatever let me know.

sscuda

Sad to hear this my friend. I do understand your failing motivation. I am getting to the same point - and my car is done. I will probably send mine to a new home this spring. We shall see. Good luck to you my friend and please don't be a stranger around here....
 
Quick question where did you find the best results in selling your project?
 
Oh no, sscuda. I know that has to be a very difficult decision and rough process to go through. I get it though. This hobby takes a toll on us in terms of giving up family time, money, and just dealing with the constant pressure to "get it done". I wish you the best and don't be a stranger in here. Your advice and knowledge is always welcome.
 
Sad to hear this my friend. I do understand your failing motivation. I am getting to the same point - and my car is done. I will probably send mine to a new home this spring. We shall see. Good luck to you my friend and please don't be a stranger around here....

Thanks Oldschool. I'll still pop in from time to time.
 
Oh no, sscuda. I know that has to be a very difficult decision and rough process to go through. I get it though. This hobby takes a toll on us in terms of giving up family time, money, and just dealing with the constant pressure to "get it done". I wish you the best and don't be a stranger in here. Your advice and knowledge is always welcome.

Thanks, Actually it wasn't a difficult decision at all. After 50+ years of playing with cars I've moved on to other things more important to me right now. My golf game suffered this year because of my work schedule, and family needs, but next season all bets are off.

BTW - I'm not leaving FABO entirely. If you need anything PM me, I will always answer.
 
before you (sscuda) leave....can you point me in the right direction to buy distributor caps / rotors for my recently acquired Accel dual plug Hemi distributor for the Flash restoration?
 
before you (sscuda) leave....can you point me in the right direction to buy distributor caps / rotors for my recently acquired Accel dual plug Hemi distributor for the Flash restoration?

Denny,

I'm not leaving FABO or any other car related forum. I'm giving up the building or restorations part of the hobby.

I suggest the following:

Have you contacted ACCEL directly and asked? Their tech support people may be of some help.

Put a wanted poster up in Racing Junk and Moparts.

I know Hemi Fred had some dual plug distributors at one time. Find out who bought all that stuff when Fred passed.

Tank Crosswhite may be able to help you out. He's got stuff on Racing Junk all the time.

There's a couple of guys on Class Racer.com (Nostalgia Super Stock section) that may know where to find dual plug dist. parts.

I'll ask a few of the "veterans" in Auburn Hills today. They may know something.

That's all I got.

Good Hunting!!!!


Regards,
sscuda
 
someone contacted my brother with the part numbers....looks like the distributor caps are readily available from Jegs, Summit, etc. The rotors are out their too.

thanks for your responses
Denny
 


It's running after a year of blood, sweat, and tears. Still chasing down some electrical gremlins with the wiper switch and dome lights but all in all, after having everything apart and rewired with an aftermarket harness, I'm very pleased. It's was blowing a little smoke as the headers and new exhaust pipes baked off. Also, I had to have the valve covers off to be able fit it in from below and some oil got in the spark plug holes - its a Hemi thing you guys would understand ;) . It cleared up after 5 minutes. Also, I used a 26" radiator in a 22" hole and it seemed fine. It stayed at 160. I had to raise the shroud up 3/8" but other than that, it fit.
 
Nice job devnull....what are your thoughts on using the more street friendly (factory) progressive throttle linkage?....just wondering, I have never used the non progressive throttle linkage, but all my Hemis to this point have been in street cars....except the tunnel rammed California Flash. From earlier posts I was thinking your motor came out of a heavier B body that you own and probably have used both linkages.
 
Nice job devnull....what are your thoughts on using the more street friendly (factory) progressive throttle linkage?....just wondering, I have never used the non progressive throttle linkage, but all my Hemis to this point have been in street cars....except the tunnel rammed California Flash. From earlier posts I was thinking your motor came out of a heavier B body that you own and probably have used both linkages.
Thanks HemiDenny. I appreciate the kind words. You are correct, the Hemi came out of my 4000lb Road Runner. I must say that I am very happy with the way the 1:1 linkage performs on the street. It is really very streetable and super easy to tune because the carbs are identical and perform the exact same functions. I actually get "decent" gas mileage with a 572ci Hemi with 2, 650 cfm 4s - in the low teens (I have a Dana with 4.30s and a GV overdrive). It's definitely more efficient than my 493ci Wedge with a Holley 4150 1050 cfm single 4.... as long as I'm light on the throttle. :) I have a wide band O2 sensor in the Road Runner and I used that to tune and study the AFR for the carbs on the street and at the track. I had another advantage with it too. Tim Banning designed and tested the setup - it is his stock "street" config - and he's put a lot of time dyno tuning this setup over the years. So it was dialed in before I got my hands on it. FYI- the Edelbrock carbs are very fat from the factory. My carbs are jetted down about .010 (10 jet sizes from out of the box) and have larger metering rods restricting more fuel.

I've driven a friend's 69 Road Runner with the stock progressive setup and I think I'd prefer what I have. I found his to be hard to start and very finicky until it warmed up. That's only one data point but its all I have. Its apples and oranges too because of the different intake design, and I'm making some assumptions but here's my thoughts on it. My intake is a single plane with a plenum connecting 8 runners whereas the stock intake is dual plane. The progressive linkage was designed with the dual plane in mind. Each carb has a different role in the stock configuration. For my setup, the carbs are identical. I have the same metering rods, same jets, same linkage, same accelerator pumps, and identical settings in both because of the symmetric nature of the intake. So if I make a change, I simply do the same thing to both. I still have a lot of variables to contend with but I think its less than if it was a progressive linkage with different functioning carbs. For example, I've found that tuning my old six pack was a major PITA because the end carbs behave differently than the center carb. Too many variables... My current setup is really easy to tune.

On the street, It's a dream. At the track... I was pleasantly surprised too. I wasn't sure how well the Edelbrocks would work in tandem. I'd always been a Holley guy. In my 4,000lb Road Runner, the Edelbrocks were deadly consistent with 1.37 60's and trapping at 135 mph. They really work well. That's a almost .10 quicker 60' than my best with a Holley 4150 series carb. I have a street tune and a track tune. I simply change 4 jets and 4 metering rods and I'm done.
I don't know if my rambling response/brain dump is helpful but those are my thoughts. :)
 
Thanks for taking the time to articulate your set up. Nice to have a scienced out simple change for the WOT track vs a street drive. What cfm are those?....just from the picture, they look slightly smaller than the factory carbs.

You are gonna love your hot rod......with your motor combination and what you have done so far, you have most of the war won already. Looks like it is all downhill and grins from here.
 
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