Power brake booster question...to use or not

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Cleveland57

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I've noticed alot of members' engine compartments without a power brake booster. I'm doing an engine/trans swap in my '69 Dart (/6 to 360 and 904 to 727) and also upgrading to front discs. The discs I picked up didn't have a booster but I was considering adding one. What are the pros and cons? If I went that route, what besides a booster and brackets would I need? I've seen a "universal" booster, might be silly but does "universal" include mopar? And lastly, does anybody have a solid set for sale? Thanks!
 
I weigh 145 lbs, and just don't have enough rear end in me for manual disc brakes. Maybe I'm just a big whimp though. I'm not sure if you've ever tried a car with manual disc brakes, it's a female dog. I'd recommend a power booster, which you can fit with that setup. It gets a bit tricker I hear when you get into the 440s. There is something aesthetically pleasing though when looking in and seeing a lone master cylinder on the fire wall, with no ugly black tire looking thing behind it. For me, the more basic the engine compartment, the cooler it looks. IMHO.
 
My car had rear drums but the stopping was instantly so much sharper. Do you guys have any ideas about brake boosters for 4 disc setup?
 
depending on the car and year....you will need a brake booster,brake booster push rod and mounting linkage that runs to the brake pedal,brake booster brackets and various brake booster support brackets,you should run with a power brake booster proportioning valve, brake lines from the valve up to the master cylinder plastic brake booster vacuum fixture and hose to run to the intake ,firewall gasket,brake booster bracket thin gauged metal plate,nuts and bolts and fluid.

I had a power brake set up in my duster but I was missing the booster and some other parts.....I bought everything i needed but COULD NOT find a new booster and the one used one I bought was a rusted out piece so I decided to say screw it and convert to manual brakes which required getting the manual brake pushrod set up and running new lines from the proportioning valve....and I decided to keep the power brake valve.

to drive manual brakes is deffinetly alot harder braking...you have to put your foot into it to stop....where as power brakes requires little effort.

BUT to pop the hood on a non power brake car looks MUCH cleaner and less clustered up.

the choice is yours but if you have to scavenge for parts to convert to power brakes...be prepared for a head ache LOL

I had tough luck finding parts for my 72 duster.
 
I'm in the same boat you are 57, I have 4 wheel disc and want to go power too. A member here had a booster setup for sale but about time my slow azz found out about it it was too late.... I'm still searching too so I feel your pain.
 
i replaced my non power mas cyl with new one .redone all wheel cylinders .bled all the lines, and i am very pleased with cost and results. i have a strong pedal and never have to depress it more than a inch or so .i had problems before but the cost of changeover i could not afford .also i would suggest adjusting all brakes 1 at a time i think you will be happy with results. i did everything mentioned under 100 bucks and i am quite sure changing out all the other stuff will cost more. but thats just my opinion please check more posts i am just relating my experience good luck i am still running all drum and i dont plan on changing out. also my girlfriend had probs with braking before doing all thats mentioned but now everythings cool
 
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