Power everywhere, but no spark

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HemiTM said:
Here are the results of todays testing.

Reluctor gap was at .023. Reset to .008
Click to expand...

.023 was WAY too much. Surprised it ever ran



HemiTM said:
Here are the results of todays testing.

Ballast
Dark Blue = 10.9

Coil side of ballast
Key on = 4.7
Cranking = 9.6
Click to expand...

"Dark Blue"-----if this was measured "cranking" is OK, if measured "key on, engine stopped" is WAY too low

"Coil side of ballast" is a tad low.

The battery, measured while cranking, should not be below 10.5 minimum. Your coil + figure at 9.6 is way below that, and indicates a drop somewhere.

Since you reset the reluctor gap, and are getting nothing, I'd do the following:

Make/ get two nice clip leads, jumper from the battery to the dark blue terminal on the ballast, AND jumper from the battery to the coil +

If it does not have spark now, then.......

HemiTM said:
Here are the results of todays testing.

I was unable to check the distributor. I only had one set of hands.
Click to expand...

Figure out a way to clip lead the connector to your meter so you can measure it

Consider replacing the pickup coil

ALSO, is this a 2 or 4 terminal resistor? If some of the boxes you tried are "5 pin" they won't work on a 2 pin resistor. You can NOT tell by looking at the box, you must "ohm out" the 5th pin, and see if it's connected to anything in the box.
 
I got a suggestion, pull the cap and watch to see if the rotor is even revolving...could be a broken timing chain, aka no camshaft rotation, and no ecu signal. Happened to my Mazda pickup and is not real noticeable if the motor is a non interference motor and the rotor is not visible. had me scratching for a few.
 
pishta said:
I got a suggestion, pull the cap and watch to see if the rotor is even revolving...could be a broken timing chain, aka no camshaft rotation, and no ecu signal. Happened to my Mazda pickup and is not real noticeable if the motor is a non interference motor and the rotor is not visible. had me scratching for a few.
Click to expand...

Rotor is turning. I had the dizzy out this morning setting the gap. I have a feeling that the pick up coil might be the problem here, since the gap was at .023. May have worn it out.
 
Update.

Distributor volt reading while cranking is .003.

Pulled the dizzy out. Ohm reading is 366 if I did it right. Rookie electricion here.
And dizzy reads .003 while spinning it by hand.
 
If you are measuring that dist. on low AC volts and that is all you are getting, you need a new pickup coil.

You should get around 1 Volt AC out of it --cranking.

If I get time today, I'll go "spin" a couple by hand and see what they resolve
 
67Dart273 said:
If you are measuring that dist. on low AC volts and that is all you are getting, you need a new pickup coil.

You should get around 1 Volt AC out of it --cranking.

If I get time today, I'll go "spin" a couple by hand and see what they resolve
Click to expand...

I sure appreciate your help.

Just got off the phone with Summit. They are sending me a new pick up coil. Should be here in the morning.
 
OK....here we go......installed the pickup coil and wah la............fired right up. Reluctor gap set at .008. Thank you 67Dart273 for your help. Could not have done it without you!!
 
so to ask a stupid question because ive now have trouble with spark also now.. i can have trouble with spark coming off my ignition switch am i reading that right? my car turns over but no spark at all... or did i miss read something?
 
i just replacement my ignition switch i some how fried out.. i had it running a few days ago ran really rough... thought i blew a motor mount or something was shaking pretty good... and now it just rolls and rolls.. spark plugs look good rotor looks good i am going to go see if that is spinning.. but will a car roll over if that cam chain is off? im eager to learn if i have willing people to explain..
 
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